Electrical issues, new R/R or Stator?

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skidmarkart

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Feb 3, 2016
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Oh learn-ed ones, I am having a problem with my bike. Noticed it was slow to start the other day. Took it to work anyway. It started pretty normally. Then on the way home, it cut out. I mean completely out. No instruments, dash etc. bike dies. I had no choice but to jump it (which I know I should not have done, but I had to get my kid off the bus). Anyway, I figured the battery was toast, it came with the bike and looked like the original HD battery. I replaced it with a new Li-Ion battery. Then, next day, fresh battery with a new charge, same issue. This time I trailered the bike home. Recharge and take battery voltage (12.6v), and no matter what the rpm I turn this seems to remain constant. Also, got the error #15 (Air Temperature too high/short to ground) and (#16 Battery voltage too low).

Any advice? I see these problems seem to always be the R/R or the Stator. :upset:
 
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I suggest you test the VR and the Stator before you guess they are the problem and throw hundreds of dollars down the guessing well.

The basic Buell repair manual (free) has the procedures. Very easy and no disassembly required!
 
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Cooter said:
I suggest you test the VR and the Stator before you guess they are the problem and throw hundreds of dollars down the guessing well.

The basic Buell repair manual (free) has the procedures. Very easy and no disassembly required!
Click to expand...

Thanks man!

So yeah, I already looked through that. It basically says "1. Regulator module not functioning 2. Rectifier not grounded 3. Engine ground wire loose or broken 4. Loose or broken wires in charging circuit 5. Stator not functioning 6. Rotor not functioning" - but nothing about where to start, how to test, or figure out which of the parts (which are pretty much the entire charging system besides the battery) is not working. I was hoping someone might be able to point to a common failure, so I could test it first.
 
below is the basic simple test procedure. follow my steps precisely then report back with findings and we'll get this resolved.
NOTE: i am no fan of the Li-Ion batteries and the tests/checks are based on my experiences with either a sealed L-A or AGM battery.
1-with seat removed and battery exposed carefully check the cleanliness and tightness of both terminals.
2-follow ground cable to its frame attachment point. remove the torx attachment screw and clean its backside...clean all terminal ends...clean attachment point...reinstall.
3-key off...red run switch off...WITH VOLT METER SET ON DC VOLTS...check battery. should be in vicinity of 12.2 volts at rest with both cables connected.
4-key on.....red run switch to on....wait for CEL to extinguish....start bike....attach volt meter to battery again. hold throttle @ steady 2500rpm and check volt meter. should read between 13.2 and 14.4 volts. test should be done for approx. 15 seconds. does it?
5- code #16 must be cleared from your ecm history.
6-remove fuse box cover....flip over for schematic...locate BATTERY blade fuse....is 30 amps....and replace. it is 25 cents and eliminates a potential problem.
 
my pleasure and the key here is the voltage output in step #4. these charging systems are straight-forward and robust but a few gremlins do crop up from time to time on your 2005 model to include the battery blade fuse in fuse-box....the ignition relay in fuse-box....the voltage regulator....the large #77 connector plug which is behind the front belt pulley plastic cover held on by 3 torx screws. follow my steps and post back with results.
 
Thanks, I will definitely get back to you.

And yeah on the LiIon battery, mine is already on the way back to Amazon, from whence it came. Even with a fresh charge, delivered from the charger, I could tell it didn't spin the engine well. I have always used Yuasa batteries in the past and had good results.
 
skidmarkart said:
Thanks, I will definitely get back to you.

And yeah on the LiIon battery, mine is already on the way back to Amazon, from whence it came. Even with a fresh charge, delivered from the charger, I could tell it didn't spin the engine well. I have always used Yuasa batteries in the past and had good results.
Click to expand...


consider either a PowerStar YTX14-BS available on evilbay for $45 including freight which is actually a very decent battery with a 2 year unlimited warranty and is true AGM(i use alot of them) OR batterymart.com Big Crank battery at approx. $85 including freight. the latter arguably the finest buell battery available. from the Deka plant right up the road from me.
 
skidmarkart said:
Yes, I looked in electrical "trouble shooting" section of the "Service Manual" here:

http://www.gigaboogie.com/buell/manuals/Buell-Firebolt-Service-Manual.pdf

If there is something else, and you would be so kind as to supply a link, I would be happy to look there too.
Click to expand...

That's the right link. You just need to go 2 pages farther and perform those checks that are described in detail on pages 7-28 and 7-29. They are the same checks that were typed out personally for you so graciously by Lunatic.
 
So, apologies for the long delay in getting back to the thread... ran into Easter weekend, visit with the parents, camping with the kids and today was the first day I had time to work on the bike. So, following the instructions provided above (Cooter, my apologies, you are correct, I went straight to "trouble shooting" and not "electrical", you would think they would reference the electrical section in the trouble shooting section, but we can complain about the technical writers elsewhere, I stand corrected). Anyway, battery connections are clean, ground is clean, battery test about 12.8v with switches and bike off (had it sitting on a charger) Once on, the bike battery tests about 12.4v. This seems to be the case no matter what the RPM are... I tried at 2.5k, then 3k, then everywhere, and the voltage seems to be flat, not matter what. I pulled all the fuses, and they are clean and seem intact. This look like a stator problem, right? Believe me, I want it to be something else (I would rather not throw money at parts I don't need), but from my reading of the service manual, and the tests, it seems to point that way, correct?

Oh, also was not able to find a 30A "battery" fuse. Checked both boxes or both sides of the fairing. Am I looking in the wrong place?
 
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If your bike is an XBr you'll find the thirty amp battery fuse around the lower left subframe under the area where the rear taillight harness connects with the main wire harness. It looks like a capped off plug.
 
Chicknstripn said:
If your bike is an XBr you'll find the thirty amp battery fuse around the lower left subframe under the area where the rear taillight harness connects with the main wire harness. It looks like a capped off plug.
Click to expand...

Think I just found it near the battery in the battery compartment. Seems clean, and no obvious issues, but I will try to replace anyway. Seems like a cheap fix for a potential problem.
 
683749.jpgdo what chickn said above and also do the below before you start throwing expensive parts at it:
1-remove fuse above that you spoke of and be absolutely certain the ends are clean and the ports it plugs into are corrosion free.
2-look at your fuse/relay schematic and descriptions in the manual you're using. also look at and enlarge the pic attached here. this should mimic your electrical schematic for your 2005 firebolt. it shows a battery fuse inside the fusebox and listed on the lid of the fusebox. if it has one be sure it is good. check it with an ohm meter for continuity.
3-find your ignition relay as per the schematic. it crosses over to many chrysler and ford automotive a/c relays and is cheap. readily available at any auto parts store. pick one up as spare in case it is needed.
4-remove your plastic front pulley cover. attached to side of motor with 3 torx screws. one towards back is very long and sits in deep recess. 2 in front interchange and just below the surface. behind that cover is your charging system connector and it is shown in the schematic. called the 77 connector. pull it apart, check carefully for cracked or broken wires and connectors, check for corrosion, clean if required, spray a bit of kano kroil or something similar into it and plug back in.
now start and see what you have. the DC volts you're looking for is what i advised you with earlier.
 
Lunatic is right on the money! I was just about to suggest you check the # 77 connector. Do some google searching on the Buell number 77 connector and you'll discover that it has been the source of many charging gremlins.
I'm surprised it has not been mentioned earlier in this post.
Good luck.
I hope you're issue is as simple as this connector.
 
#77 connector strikes again. Cleaned, and seem to have 14.1v now. whoo-hoo. Lunaticfringe, PM me your home address so I know where to send the beer!
 

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