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Firebolt 12000K Xenons installed

Buellxb Forum

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LVsleeper

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2008
Messages
132
After countless hours of research, and not finding much on HIDs for the firebolt, I decided to pull her apart and throw some bright goodies on there, (still waiting on my ASB black anodized aluminum LED signals) I decided on the 12000K kit because it's the closest in the color spectrum to my Navigator's xenons. For the most part they were plug and play, if you can work your way through a wiring diagram, building/wiring a set of relays and running them to your battery shouldn't be a problem. I also opted for a kit for the low as well as the high beam (simply for symmetry) and I usually ride with both on at night anyway
Here are a few shots at the (almost) final stage.
Enjoy, and shoot me any questions you may have of the build
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-Light Pattern for the Low beam
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-Both High and Low Beam on
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-If you look closely you can see where I wedged both of the Ballasts

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-Both High AND Low beam on (light pattern)

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cost me less than $300 for everything, ignitor and Ballast all one unit deff. not the slim ballast but as my father always said "beat it to fit, and paint it to match" jk
in retrospect, I would have gotten the slim ballasts, put about 100 miles on her since, no problems, the LED signals just came in today so that's where my afternoon will be spent.
 
Ooof, I just baught a second high beam to replace my low. Now run two high beams with Silverstar bulbs..works perfect.
 
Nice work, I have been doing some similar research recently, love to see a pick with your new ASB black anodized aluminum LED signals on too :D
 
been a few months since the install everything working great, the new ASB anodized signals all but disappear unless they're on. Only problem I've ever had is I got flagged down by a cop saying my lights were "too bright" ::imitates winey voice:: and "right in his mirror" (my bright WAS on, simply for symmetry's sake)

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For the most part, you could force the threaded end of the signal through the plastic part of the front fairing but the brace had to be drilled out from 1/2" to 5/16" the rears went right in. Didn't want to mess with load resistors as they can get HOT, so I just swapped out the flasher unit with an LED compatible unit. ($20 plug-n-play from ASB)
 
this is great, did you have to take the front fairing off to do the install?

my low and high beam set should be here sometime this week. I got them off of ddmtuning, not to bad the 55w 6k kit ran me 93 bucks shipped.

how much wiring did you have to change, according to the kit i bought its plug and play, we all know that rarely happens.
 
I did this a while back, and it was straight plug-and-play. They only wickering I had to do was to find someplace to mount the ballast. Well worth the effort.
 
Originally I had mine wired through the plug and play method, worked fine for about 6 months. I've since wired a delay relay through the power source, essentially delaying the power to the lights until I get the bike started. That's not to say I had any issues, more of an insurance policy (like the frame pucks) lengthening the life of the ballasts.
 
yes, please, i heard from my buddy with a daytona 675 that the lights turning on and off during a start has caused him to buy new bulbs.
 
Originally I had mine wired through the plug and play method, worked fine for about 6 months. I've since wired a delay relay through the power source, essentially delaying the power to the lights until I get the bike started.

Please explain or post pics on how you achieved this. I'm having an issue with a ballast not igniting. I have pull the fuse start the bike then plug in the fuse a few times til it stays on waiting on a warranty replacement but want to install a switch or even better a delay like you.
 
I should have taken some shots when I had her stripped down for the LEDs. I can walk you through the install process. it's simple enough...
Parts needed:
DEI 528T Pulse Timer Relay

Depending on application you may need a standard 30amp relay,
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I opted for the relay socket as well as it made for a cleaner install.
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Both acquired from partsexperss.com if remember correctly
Then obviously you'll need a handful of wire and wire accessories to connect it all.
With you're standard single bulb 35 watt HID setup, you should be fine without the additional relay, as the 528 Pulse Timer has a built in 15 Amp relay.
2422_20090908210021_L.jpg

If you're using two 35 watt HID's or a single 55 watt HID, I'd recommend adding the 30 amp relay as well, again insurance policy.
2422_20090908210030_L.jpg

With the pulse timer alone, I'd run a 10-15 amp fuse. With the additional 30 amp relay, I'd run a 15-20 amp fuse. The 528T pulse timer has an adjustable delay, anywhere from 1 second to 90 seconds. Mine is set at 15 and works great for me. Enough time to prime the fuel in the system and start the bike then the lights pop on as I'm gearing up, and voila she's ready for a ride :D Hope this helps all interested in prolonging the life of the ballast on their HID set-up
 
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I 2 HID's one for low and one for high. Obviously I don't use high that often so I should be able to leave it on the "stock" circuit I would assume. But as for the Low beam I would definitely use the delay. Now to come up with the funds to get the materials lol. I would think I could go to a local car alarm installer and get the delay as I goggled it and it seems to be used in that application. <EDIT> Just got off the phone with them and they actually have them in-stock for 30$ is that a good price? I know on amazon they are showing for 19$ but I don't have access to any plastic lol.
 
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