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Former Race Buells hiding under tarps?

Buellxb Forum

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Yeah, I'm going to make this happen. Got an 08 XT I'm going to try to get next week, put some street miles on to get a feel of, then I've got a trackday opportunity at the end of the month, and two local race dates in Aug as potential test windows. So this month will be a lovely mad scramble to find parts to make it as light and racey as possible in this short window, at a minimum respring the boingers, maaaaybe a rebuild/refresh if everything lines up, deal with ergos and safety requirements.
 
Yeah, I'm going to make this happen. Got an 08 XT I'm going to try to get next week, put some street miles on to get a feel of, then I've got a trackday opportunity at the end of the month, and two local race dates in Aug as potential test windows. So this month will be a lovely mad scramble to find parts to make it as light and racey as possible in this short window, at a minimum respring the boingers, maaaaybe a rebuild/refresh if everything lines up, deal with ergos and safety requirements.

Very Interesting ! !

Sounds like a great time
 
Been digging through the forum and various Buell sites trying to scavenge up info, curious if the 2010 three bearing wheels are still available anywhere? Also curious if anyone has a Drummer SS db killer floating around I could steal for a bit, my Trackday openings this month of course are both at tracks with big noise limits.
 
True, but the advantage of someone having one on hand is I could pay them to overnight it to me. :D

If I don't make the track day this week, I'll have time to wait for an eBay one.
 
Great info from Barrett!
When it comes to Buell parts. E-bay is your friend:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2043552933...rLyOtGWYboTcbMuqojwOoVcO0=|tkp:Bk9SR7qD7NShYg

I have ran these cheap-os before and honestly not bad. Simple to raise the pegs/pivot to an even more extreme position than is on the bracket already.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1660328256...AUSLkKXKDarCsIZRWCSgRzZHI=|tkp:Bk9SR7qD7NShYg

The 1190SX upper triple came with bars, and the BPF's were on everything for a long time. But the XB Showas aren't really that bad either.

Same controls I'm using. I have some Woodcrafts here somewhere I'll let go
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Bought the bike, and for the record, this XB12XT is absolutely badged as a Ulysses all over. :D

The good: Bike is clean, it's got patina that's appropriate for it's age, but no signs of tipovers, no oil stains on the engine, only sign of a leak is a slight weep on the swingarm, forward left side, looks like a hex head drain bolt? Motor sounded tight, no odd noises, idle settled nicely once warm. In theory it's had intake seals done recently as the only major service needed since he's had the bike (2018?) beyond oil and filter changes every year.

The bad: That front brake is horrific, crazy teeth rattling judder particularly at low speed. Pads are due for replacement, rotor shows no real wear or any signs of hotspots, etc, so I'm hoping pulling it, cleaning it (possibly honing it) and putting it back on with clean hardware and a fresh set of pads will sort it. The other item I noted, steering stem bearings may be starting to get notchy? I couldn't feel any play rocking the bike back and forth on the front brake, not that it's a solid test but it was 'vague' at low speed, almost like the stem was overtorqued? Need to check tire pressures too, front being low could have that feel too I suppose. Last item, I have ridden Harleys before and am used to the 'agricultural' feel of the transmission, this unit NEEDS FORCE to shift up or down. Shifter pivot bushing is sloppy, shaft shows slight movement in it's bushing but no weeping, will need to investigate that and do some research to see if this is a common issue with known improvements.

Current plan is to get pads (EBC EPFA/GPFA?), a rotor hardware kit, wheel bearings front and rear, stem bearings, and a service manual ASAP. I'm due to get some fresh brake fluid in stock, a flush front and rear won't hurt it's feelings any. Hopefully will be able to plate it tomorrow, no chance I can make it pass the noise limits for the trackday and I won't have a good front brake by then anyways so no need to rush for that.

Oh, I've been spoiled by my Pan Am, the seat on the Buell is HARD. :D
 
It has the original toolkit and pouch... hah!

And I think the bags use a better attachment system than the Pan Am's sport bags. Top case will fit a helmet too, which my Pan Am's won't.

My wife sat on it, realized the ergos are better for her than her 620 Monster she used to have back when she rode... going to have to remind her every now and then MINE.
 
For sure! Congrats! The X's are all Uly's to me? So the XT is a Uly too? I dunno, not my wheelhouse... it doesn't matter to what you're doing anyway. Seems like you got a great start:angel:

You got the right stuff on the list already:) EBC GPFA are fine up to a point, but honestly the Brembo SA/LA pads are better, about the same money and I got less hot spots. Look into getting a OE unit or 3D printing the EBR brake scoop too, it helped me. I have the file if you need it.

Motul 600 is a good upgrade when you're doing brake stuff. Oh and if you are a rear brake guy, a 11mm Brembo M/C for the rear is the only thing I ever found to get rid of the wooden Flintstone useless stock rear junk. Pads won't matter, but the M/C makes it work like, ya know... an actual brake, lol.

I might have a solid mount hardware kit for the front, lemme go look in the morning. No matter, I'm happy you're on your way! so fun!!
 
Hard to say about the trans. Not any Buellizm that I'm aware of. A dragging clutch would do it? The movement in the shift rod is normal, it's long and 'supported' by the loose oilight bushing in the primary cover. 1958 technology at it's finest...

Since it's an '08, adding a quick shifter is as easy as adding a sensor, using existing wiring, and turning the function 'on' in the ECM with ECMDroid. I might have one of those too.

It's gonna be a race bike, so eye on the prize man, don't go looking for issues or you will find them. Steering head bearings are an easy swap, you'll have it apart for the fork seals/oil anyway and wheel bearings are a no brainer when you put on the race rubber.

Get the basics sorted (Brakes/steering) before you go looking for power and you'll be happy.
 
I already know chasing power is going to be a pain as almost no one wants to tune the DDFI-2 / DDFI-3 systems, so no plans to go ham on that front yet. The bike should be dropping 90hp to the wheel if it's healthy, which is going to be down on power compared to the 1275 kitted XR1200 I know about, and the others but that's a 2024 problem. Goals right now as you noted is safe, then handling, then refinements.

On the transmission I'm going to check the basics, primary chain tension, clutch adjustments end to end, primary fluid level and condition and see what that nets me.
 
There is still power to be found in the motor, but the factory found most of the cheap and easy stuff (that would still allow the bike to pass emission and sound regulations).

Magnesium Mike built a crazy XB9, but he has A LOT time and money into that motor. Probably more than enough to buy an R1... new.

For the transmission, I would start with a drain and refill of the primary. I would run ATF in it for a little bit (to flush out the residual fluid), then go back Formula + (the factory fill). People will argue to the death about other fluids being better, but as the factory fill, you at least set a baseline for what shifting should have been like from the factory. If this doesn't resolve your problem, then you know you have a bigger problem. If it does, then it was a quick and easy fix.
 
, no oil stains on the engine, only sign of a leak is a slight weep on the swingarm, forward left side, looks like a hex head drain bolt?

Be careful to not overtorque this. Being that its leaking someone may have beat you to it. The torque rating in the factory book is wrong, I just go snug enough to compress the oring and prevent the plug from coming loose.

If someone did overtorque it and strip the threads, there are Threadsert kits available to repair it.
 
The bike should be dropping 90hp to the wheel if it's healthy

With a Drummer SS, it should barely make 100hp to the rear wheel. Stock was also about 100hp. There was an exhaust shootout done by ASB back in the day with a bunch of mufflers and a couple of bikes using a dyno and db meter. The Drummer SS and the stock pipe were listed along with a litany of others (most of which are no longer available).

Screenshot 2023-07-05 095052.jpg
 
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Primary chain was JUST past the loose spec cold, tweaked. Filled with ATF as suggested to clean things out. I also adjusted the shifter knuckle as prior owner had it at an odd angle to get the shifter lower, now it's parallel with the shifter and shifting is worlds better. Not sportbike light, but workable, and I can now clutchless shift again, though man what a flywheel effect, roll off, and WAIT if you don't wanna lurch forward on the upshift. :D

Pulled the front rotor, cleaned with scotch brite and brake clean, reinstalled, verified rotor float at all mounts, invented new curse words trying to mount the whole setup solo... still judders horribly, pulsing can be felt in the lever. The caliper isn't doing a good job retracting when you let off either, it needs to be torn down, cleaned and rebuilt, on top of new pads and now I'm going to say new rotor as well.

Now, my test ride... first opportunity to ride on roads I know, and... that bike wants to play. My Pan Am is refined and fast, this thing isn't quick, but so damn raw it's addicting. (Warning, no offense is meant by the following comparison!) It reminds me of when I started out racing pitbikes, once you built them past a certain point they just got, raw feeling, any attempts by the OEM to damp out vibrations, stabilize things, etc were just overwhelmed and even though they weren't quick compared to full size bikes they were a riot to ride. I'm getting that same nothing between me and the violence under me feeling and, yeah, that's fun! This bike and I will get along JUUUUUST fine.

I did run into an issue though, on my way back, wicking it up a bit more and getting some full throttle yanks in it died on me a couple times in a row while under high load, like I hit the kill switch. Close the throttle, coast for a min without letting the engine stall out and it'd come back to life. I figured low fuel, and either the light is out or the sending unit is bad, easy. Eased it down to the gas station and it only took 3gal to fill, so... that wasn't it. On the way home it threw the check engine, in my driveway idling for a min the check engine went out but it would randomly cough and miss a beat, nearly stalling so something's not happy. I assume the ECU has some stored codes functionality I can access with the buelltooth that came with it? Bike as a 'Race Only' ECU on it, I assume that means it's not looking for the exhaust servo, theoretically it got intake seals done by a shop in the past year or two as well.
 
ECMDroid doesn't like my ye olde tablet, opens, sees my BuellTooth paired but... nothing happens when it tries to connect, it just sits there forever.

ECMSpy on my similarly old Win10 tablet however worked. Stored errors:
Battery voltage too low - 16 2 5
IAC position too low 34 7 6
IAC circuit failure 34 7 8

Prior owner said last year it threw an IAC code and needed an intake gasket replaced, which he had a shop do. Got some testing to do tomorrow I guess.
 
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