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Former Race Buells hiding under tarps?

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Stored errors:
Battery voltage too low - 16 2 5
IAC position too low 34 7 6
IAC circuit failure 34 7 8


Proprietaries are 16 and 34. Any single digit listed after same is irrelevant.
Non-component related and always caused by one or more faulty grounds and battery terminal/cable end failure
2008 XT models have total of FIVE critical grounding points.
 
Five?! Buell, why?! :D That would potentially fit with the odd cutting out too I suspect, so charging system check, grounds chase and check, and maybe a bit of brake clean at the intakes while running test today are the game plan.

13.2v off the tender, 12.6v key on, dipped down to low 11v on the starter then 14.35v at high idle, 14.38 revved. That feels a touch high to me, but it was rock solid there no matter the revs so the reg/rect is clamping. Also noticed it didn't labor to initially get the starter spinning this morning as it has in the past. Batt is a 'Big Crank' AGM, no date code but it's been in there a couple years. It'll be getting a lithium swap before racing 'cause weight savings.
 
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Neg post on the batt was slightly loose, snugged up. Two seat rail grounds looked/felt solid, steering stem ground looked/felt solid. I've not pulled the airbox yet to look at the dogbone strap. I would like to replace the positive and negative batt cable, appears Y0137.3AK isn't available though, negative is from overseas but that I may just get a custom one made?

Bike pulled the same stunt today, once hot, it'd die on moderate throttle, no response for 10 to 15 seconds, and then relight as long as you were mostly closed throttle. After it acted like an intake leak, revs would hang at 2k, then drop to 1k and stumble hard, check engine came and went while it was doing this. I swear I could hear the chuff of either an intake or exhaust leak over the DRONE of that Drummer SS pipe? Got home, pulled codes, same list. For giggles fired it up and it idled just as nice and clean at 1k RPM, live feed showed AFV at 100%, all looked mint. Something is tripping when warm, I'll have to dig in further. I'll also read up on doing live data logging with the buelltooth to see if maybe I can catch the ECU getting angry live?

Edit: Negative strap is loose in it's clamp on the frame end, that's not helping anything.
 
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Make sure the subframe to frame connections are clean. You can usually (at least on a Lightning) remove 2 (either upper or lower) bolts and either lift or let the subframe sag a little to clean the interface. Those 4 points are where the ground connection goes to the actual frame, and NO ONE ever checks them (no matter how much they say they "checked everything").

For testing, you could always go to a hardware store and pick up a piece of wire to run from the neg terminal of the battery to the dogbone on the top of the motor/frame. That will also call out whether your grounding is good or not.



 
My meter isn't good enough to show the ground issue if present, neg terminal of the batt to a rocker cover bolt is .0001 ohm, wiggling my suspect ground strap made no difference. I'm going to pull the luggage hardware, that will let me tip the subframe as suggested just to double check things, try and tighten the crimp on that negative ground strap, and get a pump rebuild kit on order. When it cuts out it still reads RPM accurately, which implies to me that ignition is still happening? Can anyone confirm a loss of spark output from the ECU also results in a tach dropping straight to 0? I'll order an hour/RPM meter too, cheap way to see if it's dropping spark or injection when it acts up.
 
Yes the tach is driven by the same input the coils are.
There is a wiring diagram here:
http://buellmods.com/content/downloads/manuals/2008_xb_electrical_diagnostics_manual.pdf

If the tach's not dropping I'd agree it's a fuel issue, or injector/wiring issue. I have had wonky tunes that do that (totally die like a switch cut off) sending me down the wormhole of electrics, when it was fuel all along.

If you can get to the point of datalogging wirelessly to a phone with ECMDroid... or ECMSpy/TunerPro with a wire to a laptop in a backpack, it would help tremendously. You don't want this bug on the track! You'll want this ability in the pits too in the future. Worth the expense if you need to get a burner phone or cheap-o tablet.
 
There is something amusing about the fact that my 2022 Pan Am has had to go to the dealership fairly frequently for software updates, were I to attempt anything resembling a tune I'd loose my full warranty... and I'm playing with a 2008 machine that has bluetooth full ECU connectivity.
 
There is something amusing about the fact that my 2022 Pan Am has had to go to the dealership fairly frequently for software updates, were I to attempt anything resembling a tune I'd loose my full warranty... and I'm playing with a 2008 machine that has bluetooth full ECU connectivity.

How do you like the Pan Am?
 
How do you like the Pan Am?

Ignoring the teething issues they've had for the moment, the bike is brilliant. Ride is very refined, motor is smooth though held back by the factory ride modes, and the fancy toys like adaptive ride height, cruise control, ride modes, etc make it an easy bike to just ride even when it's crappy out. I've not taken it properly off road, and don't intend to. It was purchased as a sport tourer for myself and my wife and in that role it's worked well. If you create a custom ride mode and max out the throttle response, it actually starts to feel like a 1250cc modern v-twin, though it's still lacking bottom end torque compared to my prior bike, a 2005 Ducati ST3. From what I've seen, a tune on these nets you close to 25hp at the rear wheel and eliminates the factory power curve shaping so you get ALL the power when you want it, but thanks to HD being jackasses and getting the EPA on their case, they have a consent decree that upon detection of ANY tune, all warranties are null and void. Moss Magnusson what now? On the flip side, the road mode feels like a strong mid/top smaller twin with softer suspension, and rain dials it back further making everything slower and more predictable, it's way more than just a throttle map tweak.

Now, as noted it's had teething problems, Harley has been grinding through software updates to deal with random 'glitches' that range from benign overzealous triggering of the check engine light to bikes going into limp mode at bad times, ARH flaking out, etc. The last big update at the start of the year seems to have finally gotten the bikes stable. My machine got to visit the shop a few times prior for check engine lights, ended up getting the rear exhaust cam solenoid replaced under warranty, and a radiator hose that the exhaust was trying to melt (another common issue on 21/22s) on the showroom floor. When I bought it I maxed the extended warranty as I knew there were bugs to be sorted, and so far when I've been able to do two up trips on it it's performed beautifully.

I'd love to see a proper sport tourer built out of the Pan Am DNA, 17in wheel up front, ditch the excess suspension travel, more aggressive ergos and shed as much excess weight as possible. Uncork that motor. Also, give me sport cases that can actually fit a helmet, we knew this back in the 2000s, what happened?! Sadly the market seems to be moving away from bikes like that, we're on an adventure tourer kick so, Pan Am is what we get.
 
Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed answer. I really like the looks of the Pan Am. At first I wasn’t sure about the headlight but it has grown on me.

I just bought my Uly and the other bike I was seriously looking at was a 2005 Ducati ST3. I hope I made the right decision. I love the Uly so I feel like I did.
 
Been over a decade since I had my ST3, and I've only ridden the Uly a little but the big differences in my head between the two:

The ST3 is geared WAY taller, has better overall wind protection, more cramped/sporty erogs, pegs are higher, bars are lower and narrower. The ST3 can break just about every speedlimit in the US in 1st gear, and the wind protection makes 60mph and 130mph feel similar, and it's got steam to go faster. The ST3 brought with it a MUCH improved headlight over the prior gen STs, my Uly has LED bulbs... no idea how it'll compare and if those LEDs actually give a proper light pattern in these elements so I won't compare headlight perf. Bags feel similar, my ST3's topcase was a bit bigger, I like the Uly's bag retention system better. Seat on my ST3 was softer, there is an argument that it may have been too soft for real distance riding, in comparison the Uly's seat feels like a board with no grip. If you're not doing DISTANCE, I think the Uly will be a more entertaining ride, the ST really wants to leg it out and isn't so happy at lower speeds.
 
Lifted the skirt, fairly clean under the fake tank, I'd say the PO has wiped things down occasionally. No signs of blowing excessive oil out the breathers, K&N filter that may or may not stay, inside the stack only showed a faint bit of brown for the white glove test, below the throttle plate looks nice and clean. Exhaust valve actuator is still present, with it's cable, that'll go away, weight savings! Does this poor thing really only have that little bit of frown above the gas cap to supply the airbox on this bike?
 
Yes! Thanks for the Pan-Am review. It's been on my radar since new, ridden a few and liked them. But Bartels HD still wants Twenty EIGHT THOUSAND for a used one with 800 miles. Suck it.
 
Holy fark, I paid less than that for my 22 Special with ARH and $5k in accessories, AND the 5yr warranty extension, new, out the door, with ME saies tax. Watching used listings I was under the impression they weren't doing spectacular holding value and dealers were having to work to move inventory?

I think I found a line on some 5mm finned rotors, will they work with the 6 piston caliper or do they require the ZTL2 setup to fit?
 
Test ride, slightly cooler, way damper than before (72F and overcast wanting to rain vs 90F and full sun) and was able to reproduce the issue while logging with ECMDroid. Interestingly, it didn't throw any codes this time, but as before light throttle and it was happy, once hot when when I went to climb on it I lost fire, at first if I was quick it'd come back as I rolled the throttle off, subsequent cuts needed a 10 to 15 seconds of coasting down before it'd relight and it took far less throttle to trigger the issue. Idle was still good at the end, no hanging, no coughing. Now to figure out how to read said log to see where it all went wrong.

I'm starting to gel with the motor a bit more, slightly earlier shifts done correctly and she will motivate, really is a gem of a bike hiding in there.
 
Rotors will fit with either caliper but you WILL want the ZTL-2 and a 19mm master. I'm sure I have a couple OE style Nissin radial 19mm M/c's and OE un-finned rotor (but flat, lol) if you're interested. I just might have a brand new 8-piston caliper too, I'd have to look for that.

Really does sound like a tune issue, and it's RARE I get to say that. Save that tune thats in it and download another stock one. See if it changes? I hate doing diagnostics like that but it is free and reversible.
 
As you can imagine, I'm a bit hesitant to throw random tunes off the internet into it, though I've not found any that aren't behind some level of paywall yet. ECU is BUE2D ver, calibration is listed as M31DX232 if that rings any bells.
 
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