Friggin exhaust stud broke!!

[kz6fittycent]

I was riding today after changing out the brake fluid. I start hearing an exhaust leak. "Hmm", I says. Sounds like it's coming from the left side.

I get home, hop off the bike and there it is. Front exhaust header is being held on my a single stud. :upset:

The left one sheared off nearly clean. No idea how. Dumb is what I say. That's how. It's just dumb. :mad-new:

Anyway, got the new studs and gasket on the way. Gonna start soaking the studs now.

Just came here for moral support. :crushed:

 

[Barrett]

This is typically "stress-related". check the following or it may very well happen again:
1-front muffler-to-case mount bolt hasn't sheered. must be viewed closely to verify
2-front muffler-to-case mount inset bushings aren't completely worn out. they reside on either side of the mount where it attaches to engine case
3-one or more muffler mounting straps haven't broken
4-that the muffler straps are correctly installed. correct meaning the threaded posts of the 2 REAR straps face directly toward the belt tensioner pulley.....and the threaded post of the FRONT strap faces towards the primary cover side of the motor.

good luck

 

[kz6fittycent]

This is typically "stress-related". check the following or it may very well happen again:
1-front muffler-to-case mount bolt hasn't sheered. must be viewed closely to verify
2-front muffler-to-case mount inset bushings aren't completely worn out. they reside on either side of the mount where it attaches to engine case
3-one or more muffler mounting straps haven't broken
4-that the muffler straps are correctly installed. correct meaning the threaded posts of the 2 REAR straps face directly toward the belt tensioner pulley.....and the threaded post of the FRONT strap faces towards the primary cover side of the motor.

good luck

#4 happened 2 or so weeks ago. Must have been that. New clamps installed. I'll inspect the rest. Thanks for this!

 

[GregoXB]

Get the nut off the other stud safely before you start anything. Often when one snaps, the other will snap too when taking the nut off. If both studs snap, you cannot use the Jim's exhaust stud drill plate and will have to take your engine head off and bring it to a machinist. You would need new gaskets at that point....

 

[Endopotential]

4-that the muffler straps are correctly installed. correct meaning the threaded posts of the 2 REAR straps face directly toward the belt tensioner pulley.....and the threaded post of the FRONT strap faces towards the primary cover side of the motor.

Explain that one more for me? Aren't they just straps, so why would orientation of the clamp matter?

 

[34nineteen]

Also double check number 2. This can be a root cause that stays hidden underneath the bike.

 

[outthere]

Explain that one more for me? Aren't they just straps, so why would orientation of the clamp matter?

I also want to know as I'm changing out my exhaust this week and might tackle my broken exhaust stud also.

 

[Barrett]

Explain that one more for me? Aren't they just straps, so why would orientation of the clamp matter?

David: i asked Danny about this via phone conversation we were having ions ago and his reply was, in essence: the single front strap is factory installed with threaded stud post pointing to left side of bike as it eases installation.....the two rear straps installed with threaded posts pointing towards right side/idler pulley side for same reason. additionally he stated that installing the straps in this precise position and method allowed not only easier installation and tightening of each strap via the 7/16th hex nut...but seemed to apply a more even tension and tightness to the entire muffler and clamping assemblies. so that's how i always install all three....replicating how it was done at the factory.

 

[34nineteen]

David: i asked Danny about this via phone conversation we were having ions ago and his reply was, in essence: the single front strap is factory installed with threaded stud post pointing to left side of bike as it eases installation.....the two rear straps installed with threaded posts pointing towards right side/idler pulley side for same reason. additionally he stated that installing the straps in this precise position and method allowed not only easier installation and tightening of each strap via the 7/16th hex nut...but seemed to apply a more even tension and tightness to the entire muffler and clamping assemblies. so that's how i always install all three....replicating how it was done at the factory.

^^^ this is how I do it too. I put a drop of Tri-flow on clamp screw mechanism when I have the straps off, before I reinstall.

 

[Cooter]

A good place to use some of that 55 gallon drum of anti-seize you have in your bedroom, Aaron.

 

[Cooter]

I was riding today after changing out the brake fluid...

OK. We can be friends

 

[34nineteen]

A good place to use some of that 55 gallon drum of anti-seize you have in your bedroom, Aaron.

View attachment 13728

I'm actually a firm believer in corn starch.

 

[Endopotential]

A good place to use some of that 55 gallon drum of anti-seize you have in your bedroom, Aaron.

View attachment 13728

Thanks John, you're a fount of wisdom as always. All the mysteries of the universe being peeled back one at a time... :eagerness:

And you sure it's anti-seize that Aaron keeps at his bedside table???

 

[kz6fittycent]

Get the nut off the other stud safely before you start anything. Often when one snaps, the other will snap too when taking the nut off. If both studs snap, you cannot use the Jim's exhaust stud drill plate and will have to take your engine head off and bring it to a machinist. You would need new gaskets at that point....

Yeah that one came off easy. Everything's soaking in penetrating oil now.

That stud is broken off about 1/16" below the surface of the exhaust mating surface/flange on the head. I'm going to see if I can get it to move with a reverse drill first, if not, then off to the races, slow and steady. I don't care if it takes me days to do it.

 

[GregoXB]

Yeah that one came off easy. Everything's soaking in penetrating oil now.

That stud is broken off about 1/16" below the surface of the exhaust mating surface/flange on the head. I'm going to see if I can get it to move with a reverse drill first, if not, then off to the races, slow and steady. I don't care if it takes me days to do it.

Be super careful with the reverse drill bit. If it snaps off, you will have a hardened piece of steel trapped in the stud and a machinist will be your only hope at that point.....

 

[outthere]

Exhaust stud replaced, new header bolted up & Drummer installed in place of Deans. Total time around 5 hrs including watering a few potted plants here and there. Still need to change the tune to suit the Drummer. No cuss words needed.

 

[34nineteen]

Exhaust stud replaced, new header bolted up & Drummer installed in place of Deans. Total time around 5 hrs including watering a few potted plants here and there. Still need to change the tune to suit the Drummer. No cuss words needed.

Nice !!! Did you have to rotate the motor?

 

[outthere]

I did not. Rt front stud replaced. I took a chance and used a hammer on stud remover to get the busted one out. Getting the exhaust off was easy once I removed the front engine support.

 

[Cooter]

Congrats man, glad it was an easy job in capable hands. Kudos!

 

[412chris]

Ive done literally 30 or more exhaust manifold jobs on fords and chevys. The best thing ive came up with its heating the head up a little with a torch and a left hand drill bit. Sometimes you get lucky and the drillbit itself is enough to remove broken stud. If all else fails i weld a little "nipple" to broken stud and then weld a nut to said nipple. Reheat. Remove.

Also like the guy above...anti-seize works wonders.