GPR Reverse Exhaust MAP/TUNE

[Bueller77]

Hello,

I'm new to the forum, and Buells, have searched extensively here and elsewhere, looking to find a TUNE/MAP or advice on how to tune an '05 XB12R with GPR reverse exhaust. I have the buelltooth module and ECMdroid up and working. Apparently there is some sort of "tune" already installed from the previous owner so I don't believe I will have a virgin copy to save.

The bike has 10,000 original miles on it and doesn't run bad the way it is so I was thinking of recording some live data first to see how things look. The ECM I have is BUIEB and AFV setting is 103.9 currently.

Any advice/guidance would be much appreciated.

 

[Cooter]

Welcome to the forum! Hope you like your Buell

doesn't run bad the way it is.

So, why mess with it? You wouldn't feel any power difference even if the tune was stock (it's not). Whats a datalog gonna tell you? Thats it runs well and the AFV is normal?

'Runs well', AFV is well within it's range, how about ride it and do something nice for it instead? A really good detail and wax job, flush the brake fluid, swap fork oil, lots oil actual constructive things you can do before opening a useless can of worms.

 

[Bueller77]

Thanks Cooter, I love riding this bike, completely different than my HD, always wanted one since seeing them on the showroom floor eons ago and finally made it happen.

I guess that was the answer/validation I was looking for. I did see that AFV should be +/- %3 somewhere so I figured it should be close, also know the exhaust was changed just before I acquired the bike so just getting a handle on it I guess and being cautious with a new to me bike.....Do you think I should be concerned with any other settings in the ECM that could have been "tinkered" with before I got the bike?

There was a secondary fan (small computer fan) installed in the right side cover to increase air flow to the rear cylinder but I found the wiring was just run back to the taillight and bare wrapped around the contacts so I removed it for the time being as I don't want electrical gremlins, figure a RSS would be a better option.

I did just flush the brake fluid, front forks had a full service (seals/bushings/fluid), new brake pads, oil change, had real dim low beam light and found the chrome coating was bad from halogen heat, high beam was in much better condition so I swapped the "pots" and installed LED bulbs to keep the heat down until winter and I can figure out a way to address that issue better.

Cheers and thanks again.

 

[Cooter]

My story is about the same. I always liked them and fell in love as soon as I rode the first one:angel:

3% is a pretty tight margin for AFV. Theres no actual 'spec' for whats good or bad, the OE settings allow for more than 30%-50%! But I'd be looking for problems at that end:concern:. Your 103 AFV does tell me the tune is very very close and not to worry.

You can mess around with ECM parameters if you want. I like to double check fan settings because I have found the temp settings backwards on lots to 'tunes', O2 voltage because it's a way people cheat to get it richer CL targets (completely pointless and wasteful, BTW), AFV limits (because people 'lock' them to 100) Other than that ECMDroid is a wonderful diagnostic tool, if you do end up having some issue in the future.

That fan 'mod' and how it was done, scares me that the PO sure wasn't a pro, lol. A RSS is always a good idea but remember that air-cooled engines are designed for a much broader operating temp range and have many safeties built in already. OE start to intervene way up at 285*. You can check those on ECMDroid as well.

Theres an old headlight housing trick to bake it in the oven to be able to separate the halves and restore it, but theres also an LED replacement housing option. Haven't tried it myself but it seems to be vastly better than stock, even with headlight upgrade. Careful the giant heatsinks from some LED's can interfere with wiring when turning.
https://www.amazon.com/KUQIQI-headl...t=&hvlocphy=9031012&hvtargid=pla-907155609313

 

[Bueller77]

Right on thanks for the info!

Is there a good spot to find all the "factory" or standard settings for fan/O2/AFV etc? I've seen lots of different opinions and would really like to just know what my base starting points should be so I have an idea if anything is out to lunch.

The PO did disclose that he did a "fan mod" so I dug into it to make sure I was happy with it and....well...obviously not lol! (which is also my basis for concern with the ECM settings) I have been wrenching on HD's for 20+ years so I do understand the principles around air cooled engines and their operating temps etc....this is my first fuely though, always had carbs thus far so just embarking on my learning curve with respect to it all.

I'm happy with the LED's I installed to get me through the rest of the riding season here, was sure to check my wiring clearances when I installed so all good there but I appreciate the tip! I honestly like the vintage look of the projector style lights and want to keep them, will figure out a way to bring them back to new over the winter. I am a machinist so was thinking about machining an aluminum insert for the pot and bringing it to a high polish or even chrome plating something other than the plastic to be more durable.....it will be a work-in-progress

 

[Cooter]

I'm headed out of town for a week or so but I could compare some known stock maps I have and see what figures to give you for '05-ish BUIEB maps when I return, feel free to PM me a reminder if I forget

These run a bit warmer that a typical H-D because of the higher HP and more enclosure, but I've rarely-if-ever had a real overheating issue with any XB, including Arizona and Florida summers, long idling, etc. You can datalog temp and take a look for yourself. Even just bluetoothing to the phone and 'Live Data' with a phone mount is a decent display.

Oops! You're right, I was thinking Lightning for some reason and sent that link, forgot you have a Firebolt. The Firebolt projectors are a fairly universal piece (and DOT legal). I have bought them for $25 or less new on e-bay, the trick is you just can't search 'Buell Firebolt" thats when they get expensive, lol.

 

[Cooter]

Matta fact, just PM me your e-mail and I'll send you some BUIEB tunes you can sort out however you like:eagerness:

 

[dr.makoki]

I'm not sure I'm helpful, but I fitted the GPR Reverse exhaust on my 2008 XB12 after the Sebring. For my opinion, the Sebring is infinitely better, better sound and much better power delivery, however, it is much heavier and more difficult to fit. The GPR fuel maps are considerably drier than the Sebring's for the same engine configuration, the Sebring demands more fuel at full revs. I have no problem sharing my maps, but I don't think they'll be useful since I run a bored throttle body, higher flow injectors and no air filter. In any case, if you decide to fit the GPR, keep in mind that you will have to cut fuel to get proper performance from that exhaust.

 

[notbostrom]

Matta fact, just PM me your e-mail and I'll send you some BUIEB tunes you can sort out however you like:eagerness:

Jumping in on an old thread that resurfaced but could really use those OEM O2 and AFV values. Similar situation as the OP here and trying to undo some of the prior owners bad choices

 

[34nineteen]

What do you mean by OEM O2 and AFV values?

The AFV is a dynamic number to show how much fuel correction the ECM is providing. Ideally, its 100, but anything between 95-105 is considered "normal".

But does change to allow the ECM to add or subtract fuel depending on the needs of the motor.

For example, if you have leaking intake seals, the motor will run lean, and the ECM should detect this and adjust the AFV to add more fuel.
If your AFV is at 120 and you adjust it back to 100, you are basically telling the ECM, "hey thanks for noticing my motor was running lean and adding more fuel to help make it run correctly, but I'm going to reset you back to 'factory spec' so the motor can keep running lean".

The only time you would really want to manually change the AFV is if you had a problem causing the AFV to go really far out of whack (like 70 or 140) from say for example a malfunctioning fuel pump. Once you replace the pump and verify the fuel pressure is correct, then consider resetting the AFV to 100 so it doesnt have to struggle to get back there.

Also, the O2 values are going to jump all over the place (once the bike warms up and actually starts monitoring the O2 values). You will see it range all over seemingly random from .01v to almost 1v with no rhyme or reason. Usually they're mostly between .2 and .8 from what I remember. If you are using a Bluetooth connection to monitor it, the values will be changing faster than the Bluetooth connection/ECMDroid will show... but with ECMSpy and a cable you can see it. If the O2 values are static, then either the bike is still not warmed up and its not reading the O2 sensor, or your O2 sensor is defective.

If you really want to change these values to "factory" you can, but the O2 value will change immediately once the engine warms up, and probably 100 times a minute, and the AFV will change to correct an rich/lean condition (or not at all, if its running perfect).

If you feel you have a modified map or other settings, you can send the ECM to IDS or see if Rev-Mo Dave will send you a tune (he will send them for free to customers).

If the bike is running fine, and the AFV is around 95-105, dont mess with it.

 

[Cooter]

He means the rich/lean O2 voltages in ECMDroid general parameters.

but this... totally this...

If the bike is running fine, and the AFV is around 95-105, dont mess with it.

 

[34nineteen]

I guess this goes along with the “your answer can only be as good as your question” or some other nonsense I heard somewhere from someone. Lol.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I am in the middle of ordering a thinner head gasket.