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Hey Roman,

Thanks for the info and al the pics. You and your brother have a really nice looking shop and some nice equipment. I like the english wheel you built, that is a nice work center. Looks like your brother is making a motorcycle fender?

You look like a custom sheet metal fabricating shop, what kind of work do you specialize in? I used to work for a custom steel fabricator, we specialized in heavy plate work and pressure vessels though, nothing under 1/4" thick.
 
My brother and I are engaged in building custom motorcycles. We carry out repairs of the chassis after the accident, motorcycle (correction of the geometry). Making parts for motorcycles (wings, fuel tanks, frames and more ...)
Yes, the photo is my brother doing a fender for a motorcycle.

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Now the bank adsorber filled with a 251 km. mileage (156.9 miles). Less moisture in the atmosphere, less water in the pot. Much of the content - butter (whipped emulsion).

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Do not like fixing Jardine. Oil hoses rubbing on the bracket. Did the new mount. Now the hose does not interfere with the work of the rear suspension.

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I want to ask advice from experienced users.
I'm on XB9R (2003) established Jardine PT-1. The air filter and fuel card - original. Spark plugs - HD 10R12A. No problems with engine no. Works like a charm. But I feel that the engine to breathe heavily. Straight through muffler reduced the resistance issue. If I put a filter of low resistance, the mixture will be very poor. From lean die quickly spark plugs.
I understand that you want to change the fuel maps and air filter. Configuration is required. But I have ordered from EBR front brake rotor, and mounting kit for it. My financial limit has been exhausted for the next month. Ride a motorcycle every day for 60 ... 80 km. (38 ... 50 miles).
I will buy fuel card later.
What can I do now? What negative consequences might be, if we continue operating a motorcycle without a change? What is the spark plug life in this manner?
In advance, thank you!
 
Hi Roman,

Nice shop and nice little business! Thanks for sharing the pictures. I like the mod you did on the Jardine mounting, but I would keep an eye on the front mount and the muffler to collector joint for a while, just in case you get movement at that new rear mount which leverages on the front of the pipe. The only reason I think this is because of the single bolt, screwed into Aluminium, which holds the top of your bracket. The single bolt is a pivot point which could allow movement. It is difficult to get enough torque on fasteners in Aluminium to prevent pivoting on a single point. Not saying it will, it probably won't but I'd keep an eye on it.

The experts on this forum usually recommend NGK dcpr9eix spark plugs for our XBs, maybe the ones you put in are an equivalent, I didn't check.

You're right, opening up the intake will require re-mapping or a race ecm from Erik Buell racing.

To re-map and tune you need a cable, which you can buy from xopti (which is cheap) and a program called ecmspy (the older version which is all you need is freely available). You should probably get the cable and ecmspy in any case as it will allow you to reset and adjust your throttle position sensor, which will also help the bike run better.

You can buy an ecm from Buell which is set up for the combination of a Jardine and free-flowing intake, though it may not be perfectly optimized for your bike it will do a very good job.

You can also take courses online from The Tuniversity, which is the best way to go as then you can re-tune your bike anyway you want to at anytime.

Don't waste your money on a fuel card like a poweriser, I hear they don't last very well and can cause problems, your best bet it to re-tune your stock ecm or buy one from Erik Buell.

The problem with running too lean is that not only will you burn out your plugs faster, but you can also burn your valves and even put a hole in a piston due to inaudible pre-ignition. You will probably find the bike doesn't run or idle nearly as well either. It depends on how long you ride it and how hard before re-tuning or installing the race ecm. You put a lot of miles on yours and if you don't ride hard (heavy acceleration and deceleration, wide open throttle), it will probably be OK longer in cold weather than it would riding in 35C weather. You could probably ride for a couple of weeks, maybe a month with no significant damage, just some accelerated wear. Spark plug life will be shortened, but by how mauch really depends on information and varianbles I know nothing about, like what the AFV will be after the mod, how you ride, quality and octane of gas you run etc…

That is just my opinion and I'm not an expert on these motors. There are some folks on this forum that have way more experience with these engines and mods than I have and hopefully they'll comment.
 
Hello, George!
Thank you for your comments! They are very valuable to me.
I decided to study the subject before you make modifications to the engine. Then make a decision.
Health and life of the engine is more important than a loud sound. Established the original muffler. The sound is quiet, but beautiful. You feel the power. I can not get used, the motor operates very quietly. I can not hear the engine in the helmet. You have to strain your ears to the sound of the engine and shift gears to maneuver. I think, get used to it.
 
Since the original muffler bike rides better. The motor runs smoother. It is better to spin up and sneezes with discharge gas.
 
hey, I've made a bracket just like that one to hold my muffler
By the goddess of metalworking, you have some cool stuff [up]
 
I can not get used, the motor operates very quietly
if you cut the front and rear tops of the stock muffler, you can remove the sound suppressor wool and increase, just a bit, of sound, it was what I did
 
Hello Roman!

I didn't mean to cause you undue concern, like I said you'd probably be OK opening up the airbox and leaving a free flowing muffler on it. The translation of your last message left me puzzled, I'm thinking you meant that you are getting backfires on deceleration maybe? If so that can be helped when you get ecmspy and the cable and you retune your ecm.

I wish my muffler was quieter, even with earplugs I find it very loud
 
Translator wrongly conveys the essence.
I am very pleased with the work of the engine with the original silencer. The loud sound of bored. I want some time to go quietly. The main thing - quality work motor.
I like to experiment. To achieve the best.
I have long thought about replacing the muffler and engine tuning. But first, decided to understand the basic principles. On-line courses - it's interesting.
George, you really helped. I now have a direction.

To cut the original muffler do not want. This again would lead to a change in resistance in the release. Sorry for him. Maybe I enjoy the original sound. He already likes me :). I'd better make a new one with the desired characteristics. But it will be when I can tune the ECM itself at any time as I need.
 
Пожалуйста, I'm glad you found it helpful. I agree, motor efficiency and quality are my goal as well, along with handling.

I will be taking the course from the tuniversity as soon as I get the time and money.

I like your idea of building your own muffler, would you make a set of equal length headers to go with it?
 
would you make a set of equal length headers to go with it?

Yes, we can do it.
Until this problem is not worth it. I want to try to work with titanium, if I can find materials. Thin-walled titanium tube can be purchased. More difficult to find outlets (curved elements).
You can make the headlines of stainless steel with double walls. Between the walls of the lining of asbestos. But it is very time consuming and difficult work.
 
Welcome Roman, I am also a new member from the UK.
Currently modifying my 04 12r firebolt.
I'm finding this forum very helpful with a lot of valuable information!
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I hear titanium is very difficult to work with, cracks easily too if not careful. Double walled insulated headers, wow, that is difficult! I'm not sure what the performance difference is, but why not just ceramic coat the headers inside & out or wrap them with DEI Titanium wrap
 
Welcome Roman, I am also a new member from the UK.

Hello!
Excellent forum. Good and interesting people.
Do you get a nice bike. I see a lot of modifications.
Wheels polished or painted? Maybe the electric arc spraying?
Black and Chrome - a good combination.


I hear titanium is very difficult to work with, cracks easily too if not careful. Double walled insulated headers, wow, that is difficult! I'm not sure what the performance difference is, but why not just ceramic coat the headers inside & out or wrap them with DEI Titanium wrap

I agree with titanium to work hard. But this is a very interesting metal. Its properties are unique. The result exceeds expectations, if you understand the technology of titanium.
My brother and I want to start working with titanium. For example, the manufacture of titanium bike frame tubes. Levers suspensions and other critical elements. I prefer high-tech style. The use of modern technology. Manufacture of exhaust pipes - in the future. We choose the options to conduct experiments.
 
The rear wheel is a polished billet alluminium 18" x 8" made by Taylormade wheels and the front is the standard wheel fully polished.
I like the bodywork you are making for your bike, very skillfull!
 
Makes sense Roman, build hi-tech concept bikes to lear the technology and processes, plus it is fun. Yes titanium is an excellent metal to build frames and other parts with once you master the techniques. Your idea of double walled insulated exhaust pipes is intriguing, must think about it some more.
 
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