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Hello Roman,

I've been thinking about your double wall insulated header idea, and apart from the fact that it is a neat, though difficult, technical feature, I'm not sure what the benefit would be, other than from a marketing perspective. I don't think the system would give you much better heat retention than ceramic coating inside and out would and the cost would certaily be much, much higher. I can't find any data which allows me to evaluate the performance of double-walled insulated headers and a lot would depend on the materials and thickness of the insulation. So I think the cost/benefit definitely goes to the ceramic coating. Also the ceramic coating keeps the header the same size whereas the double wall gets much bulkier plus you always have the problem of unseen cracks developing and allowing moisture/water into the insulation.

Another thing to consider, here in Canada at least, Asbestos is banned, so you couldn't eventually sell the headers to countries llike Canada which had laws prohibiting the use of Asbestos. You might want to consider mineral wool instead, or ceramic insulation, though the rigidity and friability of the ceramic insulation would make it very difficult to work with. The mineral wool has higher temperature tolerance than fibreglass insulation, almost as high as Asbestos. Or perhaps just use the DEI Titanium wrap, or equivalent, as the insulating medium.

The double walled insulated headers would be trick though.
 
Fantastic shop, great looking unique bike up there (front hub steering? Ducati rear wheel in the front? Very cool! It would be nice if more of our famous "chopper" builders actually fabricated like this...

I particularly appreciate your reuse and reconfiguration of used motorcycle parts--great way to recycle and you show outstanding ingenuity!

Please keep updating this post!
 
I do not have the purpose of selling exhaust pipes in large quantities. We do individual parts. It is interesting to experiment. I did not know that in some countries banned asbestos. There are other insulating materials. Yes, George, you're right. You can use a coil for headlines or mineral wool. I think the coil would be more effective.
Double wall - for beauty. Inside the hot, outside the protection from burning. The metal does not change color. For example, a polished stainless steel tubes. On the polished surface of the image can be applied by sandblasting. Or make a false items from the lining of the winding. So how does Vance & Hines.
George, what do you think?
There is one more question for you. My cousin lives in Canada, Toronto. Sometimes it helps me to order parts from America. There are dealers in Canada HD? Do they sell parts for Buell? I'm losing time and money because of the delivery from America to Canada. My brother collects the orders and send me to Russia.
There were bad noises in the gearbox (my XB9R). At first, she began to work harder gearbox. When you turn on the 1st transfer is a blow, like a sledgehammer on the motor. When you switch gears 1-2, 2-3, 3-2, 2-1, and can be heard screeching crunch. First, the sounds appear very rarely. Now - more often. I did not wait until the engine dies, and finally took it apart. I hope to help experienced users.
There was one case: when you try to tilt the side fence, caught a slider shoe for the shift lever. Joined 1st gear with a strong blow (no clutch). There were two or three such cases during the year. After that the transmission was disturbed my sound. Could this be the cause of wear on the gears mesh faces? Can cause a modification to increase the lever clutch earrings? (I described before I made ​​the bracket, extension cord). But the clutch works well. Squeezed out completely. When depressed the clutch the bike is not trying to go. And in the course of the clutch does not slip. In the near future will show in the photo gear.
 
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Plugs straight. Deformation is not found.

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I do not like the rear piston. Bankrupt following rings. Perhaps the previous owner fried (overheated) motor. Could this be due to prolonged use of high flow muffler without setting the ECM? The rings should be replaced. I think it should replace the pistons with rings.

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What can the experts advise?
 
Maybe I'm wrong and do not look there? Have I identified the cause of incorrect operation of the gearbox (the wear on the gears mesh)?
 
Fantastic shop, great looking unique bike up there (front hub steering? Ducati rear wheel in the front? Very cool! It would be nice if more of our famous "chopper" builders actually fabricated like this...

I particularly appreciate your reuse and reconfiguration of used motorcycle parts--great way to recycle and you show outstanding ingenuity!

Please keep updating this post!

Thank you!
I'll tell you more about the process of building this device.
 
Roman, what do the shift forks look like? Any bends/deformation/chips? Gears, if beveled or damaged, can be repaired/ undercut if they're not too bad. Usually, though, it's the shift forks that sustain damage when a shift is missed or there is a unduly forceful shift (no clutch shift under power, etc). But as you're noticing, these gearboxes are not too difficult to diagnose/ fix.
 
I also suspect deformation plugs movement. But it confuses me wear mesh gear.
Take photos close-up plugs. I'll try to check their geometry again.
 
Hello Roman,

I am sorry to hear about your transmission and engine problems. These motorcycles have different transmissions than Japanese motorcycles, one must shift a little slower and more deliberately. There is also less need to shift due to the low and mid-range torque. There have been quite a few people recently who have had gearbox problems, almost all because of shift fork wear or damage. Shifting without the clutch is a no-no on these bikes

Usually it is the shift forks which deform or wear which results in improper or only partial engagement of the gears which in turn results in gear failure. Yours don't look very bad at all, compared to some pictures I've seen. Unfortunately I am not very familiar with these transmissions, hopefully other will help. Perhaps if you were to start another thread just about your transmission along with pictures it might get more attention.

Your rear piston doesn't look too bad, definitely got a little hot, I'd check for intake leaks and whether the fan works. If money is tight you could probably get away with just doing the rings. The rear cylinder on these motorcycles run hotter than the front, sometimes very hot depending on the tune, whether there are any intake leaks etc… Most of us install a right side air scoop, which you can buy from American Sport Bike a cheap one http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/A17360.html or a more expensive fibreglass one which looks better http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/9160F.html or an even more expensive carbon fibre model http://www.americansportbike.com/sh...ref=9160&sid=82a3y1503p1f4kcsrg1r7r983ji6c6b2

In Europe Pegasus makes one, but you'd have to ask LeFox how to get one.

You can buy parts from www.buellparts.net, they are pretty reasonable on price and I've always had great service. American Sport Bike (ASB) has also given me excellent service, reasonable prices and good selection of aftermarket parts.

Yes, there are Harley dealers in Canada, some of them might ship directly to you if you could arrange a guaranteed form of payment, like PayPal. However prices are usually more expensive than in US.

Strictly for appearance your double wall headers would be beautiful. There are a lot of things you can do if that is your main goal, you could even insert different coloured metals into cut-outs, like inlay in wood, it could look really nice - but very expensive to do and a whole lot of work. I like the idea though, it would definitely be one of a kind and could look fantastic as would any of the ideas you described. I look forward to seeing what you create.

Gotta run, I'm late getting stuff done, talk to you later
 
Fork movement measured. Only one has a displacement of 0.15 mm. I think this value is not essential for the proper gear. Or it may affect? Do I need to pay attention to this fork and straighten it?

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The two forks see uneven wear of the friction surface. Do I need to pay attention to it?

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Measured shaft runout. Woods even. Heartbeat - "0"

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Castor forks move in the grooves Die sinking a shaft with a clearance. Die sinking a shaft (aluminum cylinder with grooves figured) looks normal. Rollers skated groove in the grooves, but very slightly. I can measure this value.

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George, what can you say about it:
http://www.buellsterparts.com/produ...28541.qscstrfrnt05?productId=903&categoryId=6
I do not like to buy no new details. Is it possible to buy a new transmission parts? Or for our bike is now only the old part?
 
The process of building "street-rod":
Fundamentals of wheels - the rear wheel of the Honda VFR-800 (2 pieces).
The frame and arms are made of cold-worked seamless pipe (steel 20. (0.20% carbon).


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For the design of motorcycles, I use AutoCAD.

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We have developed a modification of the engine (removal of the lead angle gearbox and pulley installation of an extra pole). Changing the lubrication system of the secondary shaft of the gearbox. Engine Suzuki VL-1500 Intruder. The choice of engine - the condition of the customer. We had to use the engine Buell ...

The project was stopped. Made only as shown in the photo. The customer decided to start their own business and put money in the deal. Further funding was stopped.
Now we have this project is no longer interesting. We will not continue to work with him, even if the customer brings a lot of money.
We know what we can do better and more interesting.
 
Hello, George!
I can not order the parts from the United States. Dealers in the U.S. do not ship parts to Russia. This is due to the policy. You have to use the services of intermediaries. In any case, it turns out more expensive. I am comfortable that my brother is doing in Canada.
 
Hi Roman,

Thanks for the pictures, that is a very interesting and impressive build thread!

I've been looking at the pictures you posted of your gearbox parts and trying to understand the translation of the symptoms you experienced. I confess that I do not understand all that you are trying to describe, however I think the following:

Your forks are certainly flat enough and don't appear warped or twisted. I can't tell from the pictures how much wear there is on the forks, but there doesn't seem to be enough wear to cause the gears to only partly engage. Your shafts and other parts seem to be in pretty good condition as well.

So all I can think of at present is the following:

Is it possible that one or more shifter forks moved on their shaft, which would certainly cause problems with gear engagement?

This may sound like a silly question, is the clutch adjusted properly?

I would replace the shifter forks, given that you have it all apart anyway, replace all bearing and seals and reassemble the primary and check that it shifted OK, if not back to the drawing board.

Yes it should be possible to fnd parts for motors and gearboxes, check Buellparts.net, ebay and other online sources. Ask members of this group, there are people on here who are parting out bikes or have parts or know where to get the.

You could even put a NRHS big bore kit http://www.nrhsperformance.com/ekitbuellxb12r.shtml if you are going to rebuild the engine anyway :)

I'm sorry I can not be of more help here, I am not that familiar with these gearboxes and from your pictures the parts all look pretty good, just normal wear from what I can see and no obvious reason for the problems I understand you to be describing.

Good luck
 
Sorry Roman, I forgot to answer your question about Buellster parts. If they had that gearbox in stock and I needed one I'd buy it, for $175 you can't go too far wrong. The gears look in better condition than your and at worst you might be able to mix and match parts and get a good transmission out of the two.
 
Hi Roman,

I was looking at the pictures of your gears some more last night and doing some reading in the manual for my 2004 XB12R.

I noticed, I which hadn't before, that the corners are really worn/damaged on the gear lugs or dogs. This could prevent the gears from engaging properly or completely, given wear in the splines of the shaft and gears.

What do you think? When you "shift" the gears, with a 'preload' like you would have under operating conditions, do the corners of the dogs stick or interfere with each other?

Just a thought…
 
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