Have voltage but fuel pump doesn't run?

[July4]

Bike died last weekend and I noticed the fuel pump wouldn't run when the key was turned on. So I walked halfway home before I could raise anyones interest on the cellphone. I now see why people do not run 10Ks in leather pants. They make your ass real sweaty.
Since there was voltage at the pump, I assumed it was bad. New pump is on but doesn't run either. So I connected each, ( old and new pump) to the battery with test wires and they both run. Now I double, (triple and quadruple check) voltage where the wires connect to the pump, and there is 11.95V or so. Well there seems to be a little loss from battery voltage (12.9), but the pump should run even at 11.95V. The battery is 2 weeks old and kicks the motor over nicely. I've charged it and it reads around 13.V now but no change in the fuel pump status. I don't get it. The closest I come to understanding this is that I may have almost 12V, but perhaps I do not have the Amperage at the pump for some reason. Any help would be great because I'm pissing away a beautiful sunny southern California weekend in the garage and supervising my son pretending to weed wack the lawn.[mad][mad]
Bike is a 2005 XB9.

 

[UMDterp13]

Get a used pump assembly from Paul or myself or anyone else

 

[afpreppie04]

Are you checking voltage at the pump connector on the outside of the frame or at the pump itself? There were problems with the wires chafing on the pump assembly itself (inside the frame). I caught mine when it stopped priming with the key on, though it still ran fine. Dropped the pump and sure enough there was chaffage. Fixed the wires and routed them through some protection to keep it from rubbing and it has been fine ever since.

 

[July4]

I'm checking with the pump assembly dangling outside the frame, checking the internal wires where they plug into the pump itself. I have 11.95V and the same voltage at the external connector between the harness and the assembly. but the pump, will not run. It only runs if I use test wires from the pump directly to the battery.

 

[July4]

Oh, and the wires look perfect, no chafing whatso ever. I'm really stymied. No rational ideas. Bad ECU? now I'm just guessing. I swapped the starter relay and the igintion relay, no change.

 

[July4]

anybody have even a wild guess?

 

[rchuff]

Sound like it lies with in your connector. Are they making good contact?

 

[Chicknstripn]

I agree with RC. If the fuses, relays and kill switch are all working AND you have voltage at the fuel pump wiring; there has to be a loose ground or something causing that pump not to work.
Chasing electrical gremlins is not my specialty!
Good luck

 

[user_deleted]

humor me. is the pump installed now and is it a 3 wire model? in other words are there 3 wires going from it's male end......2 to the pump and 1 to sending unit? yes or no? if yes and pump is installed run a simple ground wire from negative battery cable end....NOT battery post....cable end....down to the exterior of pump body and see what you have. if it now functions normally you just found your problem.

 

[thrstrmech]

missing a ground to the pump? black wire in the harness to ground mount of the bracket which holds the pump and filter

 

[July4]

The pump has two spade terminals, + -, A grey wire and a grey/brown wire connect here. The other wire, yellow and red, goes to the fuel level sensor, and the black wire screws to the aluminum base/cover that everything is attached to. The black wire looks perfect and the screw to the base is tight. I'm suspecting the 4 prong square connector to the harness, or some other connector coming from the kill switch is corroded.

I will try the jumper wire to ground you suggested.

 

[Chicknstripn]

I think you're on the right track with that connector!

 

[July4]

/Users/bradschulz/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2015/05/31/20150531-104851/G8X36x0rR7aTXbsX3WsqVA/IMG_2485.jpg

 

[July4]

yes, but not with my picture upload ability!

 

[thrstrmech]

one of the two fuel pumps I recently semi overhauled had a broken terminal in the connector, was told it's the same as a sportster pigtail. sold the pump to another local forum member and he replaced the connectors with a Deutsch. his bike is back on the road now.

 

[July4]

Ok, but both the old pump and the new do run when hooked to the battery directly. So my problem is within the wiring somewhere.

 

[thrstrmech]

get a multimeter and start ringing out the wire harness for continuity

 

[rchuff]

Should ohm the wire and wiggle test it to.

 

[July4]

I talked to some electrical engineers here at work and they pointed out the obvious that I'm getting 12V but it is not holding up under load. So I have either a loose connector somewhere or a nearly broken wire. So yes, I will be at it with the multimeter tonight. Thanks for the help so far, I will let you know what I find.
Any idea why I can't upload pics? I'm using Apple/safari if that matters.

 

[thrstrmech]

loose connector somewhere or a nearly broken wire

I can relate to the nearly broken wire...in short the plastic clamp that holds the battery cables together, the screw was to long and rubbed into the main wire harness and almost severed a wire, which was causing the bike to die whenever there was a dip or bump in the road.