HOW-TO: REMOVE HEADER NO ENGINE ROTATE NEEDED (with pics)

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sent you pm, just looked at my bike and the pics above and i only have 1 hose and 4 small cables which i cut the cable ties off and moved aside and then wiggled out the pipe.
 
Thanks I'll give it a go that way and see if I can get it out without pulling the shock & fan.
 
sticky tape or sticky putty that is smart those little nuts can be hard to find , i dropped the frist one . it took about 20 min for me to fish it out , it got stuck under some of lines.


I have used the sticky stuff on duct tape too just scrape it off, used that when you cant enough tape to hold it because tiny nuts n socket to tiny .

on aircrafts I also have used and i like using it in extremely tight or odd places(like back behind where cant see the bolt or screw not even with mirror usually because the hole to reach it is tiny itself) to get to , is a spray-on adhesive (like the kind you use to put a headliner on in a car). you can sray on a little or alot , if need be spray your fingers so you wont drop the screw or bolt in tight spots . it washes off pretty easy with lava soap or gojoe soap.
 
Ok removed the headers on my 2010 XB12Ss and I didn't need to remove the shock & fan or even the V bracket & other items at the front.

It worked out to be a lot easier then I thought.

Basically I removed the seat & R/H scoop to access the o2 sensor plugs, then removed the muffler and unbolted the headers and they just came out with a little maneuvering.

Thanks for the info & help guys [up]

Now to get them off to the ceramic coaters and some new exhaust port gaskets for the installation.
 
Also I haven't tried removing the retaining rings yet is there an easy way or any tricks to it?
 
Got the retaining rings off just using some pliers.

And here is a pic of the bike with the headers removed so you can see what else I had to removed for access, hope this helps.

PICT0100.jpg
 
I didnt notice anyone saying anything about getting them back on...Im having a really hard time tighenting down the right rear nut on the back part of the header, i have a socket that swivels and a bendable extension but I cant get enough tq out of the extension to tighten it anymore than 3/4 of the way and a straight extension doesnt fit... I was so aggravated with it last night I just gave up but its all I need to do to finish my header wrap and get the bike back together...any good ideas? or tool combos lol


*I did think to myself for a second last night that if the frame wasnt the gas tank Id just drill a hole for an extension then put a rubber bung in it when im done, that would make it super easy haha
 
I used the some tools to install as I did to remove, 1/4 drive uni, 6" long extension and the right size socket.

Also the nuts are only meant to be torqued down to 6 or 7 ft lbs, check the manual for the correct figure.
 
crome;

take a look back up about 20 posts above your post for an answer on getting them back on with a header wrap. you'll find this post
ok thought i would add a bit more advice to this thread.
if you are wrapping you headers with header wrap or something. then because you need to move the flanges back away from the end of the header in order to make it easier to get the header back on, putting the header back on without rotating the engine down will take alot longer and could cause the wrap to fray some or get damaged in the process of putting it back on.

so as it is easy to remove the header without doing an engine rotate, it would take alot less time and be EASIER to put them back on with the engine rotated down (if you have header wrap on them, and probably otherwise too), but there is no real need to disconnect the oil lines ,just remove the V bracket and support the oil cooler with wire or string, like it is shown above, in the how to,
it wont get in the way at all. and move the clutch cable out of the way by removing the small wire holder attached to the top front enginemount(the mount with the front isolator bolt), and at the tie rod also , and just move it towards the left side of the bike , no need to disconnect it.

and dont forget when installing the header to alternate between the header bolts/nuts to make sure the flange goes on straight and is flush with the engine, and torque them to the PROPER TORQUE.

and at the end of my write up, you will find this...
the installation is pretty much the reverse of the process. and it may take a few trys to get it back on . especially if it slips on to the rear top header bolt on rear cyclinder
 
09 lightning
1- remove seat
2- remove chin faring
3- remove muffler
4- remove left bolt on dog bone support on regulator bracket
5- remove rss,remove bolts for lss let scoop hang
6- remove bolts for v/regulator bracket
7- remove header bolts
8- unplug o2 connector by reaching through hole under seat
9- using 7/8 crows foot remove o2 sensor
10- pull header flange away from studs,pull out on front header tube and rotate front tube counterclockwise so it faces straight up and remove header.
if you dont have a crows foot
lift rear of bike and place blocks under rear muffler mount.
11- remove rear shock and lay next to battery
12- remove fan grill and fan bolts
13- slide fan down approx 4 inches no need to unplug fan
14- using o2 socket remove o2 sensor and perform step 10

sorry no pictures the first 10 steps takes about 30 mins all 14 may be 50
 
hey native, yeah I saw that in the posts but my problem is getting a combination of sockets and tools that actually fit in the space and rotate enough to actually tighten the nuts down, i used a swivel socket and bendable extension on a 1/4 drive ...i was pretty much curious what you guys used and how well it worked out
 
I also did a write up on this and used the tools you mentioned. I was only able to go 3/4 turns at a time and then you have to reposition the socket. It takes awhile but better then doing the engine rotate.
 
crome ;

there is a list of tools that was used at the top of the How-to write-up, & i think also in the middle to bottom of page 1,
and yes like xtreme said you can turn it a little at a time and may have to take it off and reposition it a few times and maybe a few tries, with patience you can get it done. and a few differrent ways to do the steps as discussed on page 1.



also you can use the 1/4 extensions ( 6inches, and 2 inches long) & swivel joint & deep socket
(try a few different positions of the extensions & swivel joint & socket until you get one that fits and works and turns good when on the header nut.) & 1/4" ratchet to very slowly fish up to the front nut on rear header and very slowly & carefully turn it about 1/8 turn or less then reposition it again and turn it again and repeat to loosen that nut and same for rear nut also, becarefully not to scratch your frame or header. I have done this and it can very time consuming , the way I wrote it the How-to is easier and less time.
 
I am in the process of doing this because my front header studs broke...I must say this job makes me miss my tubber because I have replaced a header bolt on it and it was not near as long of a process as this is.


but thanks for the write up though.
 
I did a full header replacement and posted a video if you're interested. Definitely a DIY mod. Harley wanted an ungodly amount of money to do it by dropping the engine lol. One of the mechanics there couldn't believe I did it and after explaining it to him this is how he does it now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxozheEre64
 
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