DrogeN Omen
Well-known member
sent you pm, just looked at my bike and the pics above and i only have 1 hose and 4 small cables which i cut the cable ties off and moved aside and then wiggled out the pipe.
ok thought i would add a bit more advice to this thread.
if you are wrapping you headers with header wrap or something. then because you need to move the flanges back away from the end of the header in order to make it easier to get the header back on, putting the header back on without rotating the engine down will take alot longer and could cause the wrap to fray some or get damaged in the process of putting it back on.
so as it is easy to remove the header without doing an engine rotate, it would take alot less time and be EASIER to put them back on with the engine rotated down (if you have header wrap on them, and probably otherwise too), but there is no real need to disconnect the oil lines ,just remove the V bracket and support the oil cooler with wire or string, like it is shown above, in the how to,
it wont get in the way at all. and move the clutch cable out of the way by removing the small wire holder attached to the top front enginemount(the mount with the front isolator bolt), and at the tie rod also , and just move it towards the left side of the bike , no need to disconnect it.
and dont forget when installing the header to alternate between the header bolts/nuts to make sure the flange goes on straight and is flush with the engine, and torque them to the PROPER TORQUE.
the installation is pretty much the reverse of the process. and it may take a few trys to get it back on . especially if it slips on to the rear top header bolt on rear cyclinder