HOW-TO: REMOVE HEADER NO ENGINE ROTATE NEEDED (with pics)
- Thread starter nativeXb12Rbuell
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Have started the header-swap myself now. But i can't in any way or form manage to get it past the v-bracket in front of the engine. I've tried every angle.. Looks i need to remove the v-bracket. How did you guys get it past the bracket ???
kbwood1008
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So I got my header ceramic coated and put back but now have the check engine light. I cannot get ECMSpy to work... ideas? I am wondering about the O2 sensor.
kbwood1008
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- Feb 9, 2010
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I found I had three missing connections - the exhaust servo, the air temp sensor, and the engine temp sensor. Guess that is what I get for letting some one else do my part of my reassembly.
CityBoiX5020
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- Aug 6, 2011
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Can you guys tell me why my rear header flang wont go on flush with the cylinder? Its nice and snug, and ive been alternating between the two nuts but there still this little gap in between [confused]
CityBoiX5020
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Well.."that was easy". Sweet, thanks guys. Now to proceed with the Force install 
CityBoiX5020
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One more thing. Somebody PLEASE tell me theres a way to get the muffler mount off without disconnecting the oil line that runs through it, off??
wally
Well-known member
Any tips from Uly owners that have done this?
I need to do this Saturday.
Thanx!
I need to do this Saturday.
Thanx!
wally
Well-known member
Thanx Stellio ! [up]
Certainly seems lot less daunting!
Certainly seems lot less daunting!
GregoXB
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I have often thought about removing/installing the header from the side without removing the shock and fan and dropping the rear tire a few inches. The biggest problems I can see running into is:
1) The O2 sensor still attached might create an extra obstacle while you are pulling/putting the header off/on. There have been several replies and posts about people having trouble getting the header positioned, even when doing it the long way. With the fan and shocked removed you can remove the O2 sensor before pulling off the header, minute 4:50 in the video.
2) I would be worried about torquing down the lower nut on the rear header port, without first finger threading the nut to the bolt and visually inspecting that the nut is correctly situated on the bolt. The bolts themselves are permanently attached to the engine. So if you torque down the nut when its not flush and damage the bolt, you can create a world of pain. At minute 5:30 in the video, you can see the tool you have to use to reach is about 10 inches long and it applies force from an angle. I would not be comfortable threading that nut with that tool.
3) The top nut on the rear header is fairly tricky itself. Yes, you can reach it with a straight extension tool (minute 5:05), but if you have no idea where that tool is going and what it is attaching to it can be extremely frustrating and potentially damaging. With the fan and shock out, you have a clear line of sight as to exactly what you are doing and you can apply force with your hands and fingers before using tools.
If you aren't mechanically talented (like me) and have never done this job, taking the few extra steps might save you and your bike from pain.
1) The O2 sensor still attached might create an extra obstacle while you are pulling/putting the header off/on. There have been several replies and posts about people having trouble getting the header positioned, even when doing it the long way. With the fan and shocked removed you can remove the O2 sensor before pulling off the header, minute 4:50 in the video.
2) I would be worried about torquing down the lower nut on the rear header port, without first finger threading the nut to the bolt and visually inspecting that the nut is correctly situated on the bolt. The bolts themselves are permanently attached to the engine. So if you torque down the nut when its not flush and damage the bolt, you can create a world of pain. At minute 5:30 in the video, you can see the tool you have to use to reach is about 10 inches long and it applies force from an angle. I would not be comfortable threading that nut with that tool.
3) The top nut on the rear header is fairly tricky itself. Yes, you can reach it with a straight extension tool (minute 5:05), but if you have no idea where that tool is going and what it is attaching to it can be extremely frustrating and potentially damaging. With the fan and shock out, you have a clear line of sight as to exactly what you are doing and you can apply force with your hands and fingers before using tools.
If you aren't mechanically talented (like me) and have never done this job, taking the few extra steps might save you and your bike from pain.
GregoXB
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I want to add a post too.
Getting the rear header flange situated on the bolts while positioning the header pipe and threading the nuts was a PIA, even when I had everything opened up like in the video and was using both hands. I do not even want to imagine doing that task from the side of the bike with everything closed up. My butt is literally twitching just thinking about it. Not to mention, if that flange gets hitched at an angle, you don't see it, and then torque down.... welcome to pain city.
Like I said, I'm a beginner and am not a particularly talented mechanic.
Getting the rear header flange situated on the bolts while positioning the header pipe and threading the nuts was a PIA, even when I had everything opened up like in the video and was using both hands. I do not even want to imagine doing that task from the side of the bike with everything closed up. My butt is literally twitching just thinking about it. Not to mention, if that flange gets hitched at an angle, you don't see it, and then torque down.... welcome to pain city.
Like I said, I'm a beginner and am not a particularly talented mechanic.
GregoXB
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If you do it like the video, when your work is completed, you can look at everything, touch everything and give it your official seal of approval. So when you ride your bike again you have maximum confidence. For me, that is the #1 goal, and if it takes a few extra steps to get that, then so be it.
I strongly discourage people from taking any more short cuts with this project. According to the Buell manual, the engine should be rotated down to do this procedure. So this method is already a short cut.
However, as someone who has done this procedure like this thread has described, and has driven the bike for 5,000+ miles I can approve this method.
I strongly discourage people from taking any more short cuts with this project. According to the Buell manual, the engine should be rotated down to do this procedure. So this method is already a short cut.
However, as someone who has done this procedure like this thread has described, and has driven the bike for 5,000+ miles I can approve this method.
