I just picked up a Jardine RT1 as a spair muffler and was pulling it a part to fix it (ripped out rivet holes). I'm the 3rd owner of this piPe and was just curious about the internals of the RT1. Mine has a wire screen stapes around the perforated tube(. Almost looks like window screen).
Jardine RT1
- Thread starter freak2180
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noone1569
Well-known member
Yeah, its just the screen and baffling.
Does it need to be in there? I ask because it's in pretty rough shape. This can had pretty much decentigrated inside........ The center tube had actually come off and was laying in the bottom of the can with what little packing that was left. With some tlc this pipe will look/sound good again.....just 1-2in shorter to fix the rivet hole issues and the fact that the center tube is too damn short in the 1st place. Will get pics up soon.
Well I'm to the point that this can is apart & I'm cleaning it up and I noticed that the front hanger is cracked loose from the inlet tube...... Is this a normal issue for the Jardine inlet tube/hanger? I'm having it welded up along with having nuts welded to the inside of the inlet portion of the pipe so I can bolt the can back together instead of rivet. I'm glad I got a deal on this cuz it's def a project peice. Over all the thing looks good.......it's all the small things that most people wouldn't notice till it fell off the bike that I'm working on.
doing some surching about diffrent mehtods of repacking a muffler ( materials...yada yada yada) and come across this pic on a Kawasaki site.
It is said to reduce the noise level by using the small area thats not wraped as a release into the can so the pulses cancel each other out. Not sure on the tech side of this, but a few user clim to have had this set up for over a year with no complaints.
It is said to reduce the noise level by using the small area thats not wraped as a release into the can so the pulses cancel each other out. Not sure on the tech side of this, but a few user clim to have had this set up for over a year with no complaints.
noone1569
Well-known member
Interesting.
I have to tear mine apart this week again because the front rivets elongated the hole. I tried re-rivetting them, but now it is rattling again. I think I'll just weld the front cap in there and keep the rear revited. But I am looking for new packing material. I wonder how effective that is.
I have to tear mine apart this week again because the front rivets elongated the hole. I tried re-rivetting them, but now it is rattling again. I think I'll just weld the front cap in there and keep the rear revited. But I am looking for new packing material. I wonder how effective that is.
This is the shape i received it in.
these 2 pics show my 1st cut and 2nd cut required to get rid of the bad holes and make the inner core tube fit properly (inner perferated tube was 1in too short causing it to move from end to end acting as a grater against the packing).
Full amount cut off pipe is almost 1.5in
inner screen that was just sitting in the bottom of the pipe.
I chose to go with 12 steel 1/8 rivets to hold the end back on.
This is the 2in to 1 7/8 reducer i used inside to mimic Gatterbuell's torque fix.
This shows the reducer from the pipes exit.
