Looking for some hardware help (neutral sensor removal)

[vicenzajay]

All,

I can't seem to get the neutral sensor out of the engine case (from behind the pulley). The needle-nose plier thing just isn't working (been trying for hours - PB blaster - waiting - tapping - etc.).

Does anyone here have an already ground-down 5/8 socket for this purpose that I can borrow. I'll gladly pay 2-way shipping....

I also welcome alternate ideas to getting it out....

 

[stellio78]

From the Twin Motorcycles Maintenance articles I’ve seen they remove the belt from the front pulley for more room to work, maybe you can then get a regular socket or spanner onto it?

https://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20

 

[Cooter]

A "crows foot" might do it, or buying a cheap socket to modify yourself would be much faster/cheaper/easier.

Small needle nosed vise grip style pliers are not expensive either, but get a brand name.

 

[vicenzajay]

I could try....

I really don't want to have to remove the pulley - all the writeups I'm finding seem horrible...

 

[vicenzajay]

@Cooter - copy....wish I were handier at "modifying" a socket. I really don't know what to do there...

 

[Rays]

Have a look at the last picture in this old thread:
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showt...uych-weirdness/page2&highlight=neutral+switch
That was ground down with a bench grinder & holding the socket with a piece of dowel (it gets hot fast) so nothing exotic.
The socket was a grubby, rusty thing I picked up at a swap-meet for 50c.
With the belt off the rear sprocket and moved out of the way the switch can definitely be removed by a trimmed down socket.

 

[vicenzajay]

So finally got it off...

Took removing the belt and using my socket 'just so' with an extension to get a very small amount of torque on half the sensor. That got it started. Needle-nose pliers took care of the rest.

I'm still going to replace it once I get a new sensor, but for now I cleaned it really well (and the whole area) and re-installed. Hope it doesn't come loose now too easily.

I checked continuity by using the 'cap' and grounding it. Wiring seems okay - works as advertised (ground=light on panel).

Thanks all for the progress thus far.

Now I have to re-uninstall the entire front fairing and try to get at the cluster (i.e. inside the cluster) to sort the speedometer weirdness (see my other thread). Yay.

 

[Cooter]

While the sensor is out, push on the silver ball bearing and shoot contact cleaner in there, lots of oil build up can get in behind it.

 

[Silverrider]

If my name was T-Bag I would tell you to grind the side of the pulley off and have full access to the switch without grinding and ruining a good socket.

 

[Outlaw]

If my name was Tbag I'd redesign the bike . And then still bitch about it.

 

[vicenzajay]

Okay, that's funny

Cooter - that's exactly what I did (contact cleaner, etc.).

John and I are talking through email, and he's recommending that I remove the front pulley when I install the new switch in order to properly torque the sensor in the case. That's what I'll do. I'll need to borrow a pulley tool to do it, though (to block the front pulley), and I'll need a 1 7/8 socket and longer breaker bar as well (and maybe a torch). That said, it's the right way to do it.

Took the bike on about a 40 mile ride to close the day - ran well, neutral light worked a treat without stopping. We'll see how it continues.

 

[user_deleted]

want me to send you down the tools you need to do it jay? is the special nut socket and adapter tool and pulley locking device.

 

[vicenzajay]

John, that would be awesome, but let's wait until I can get the new sensor here. No sense in going through the process for what might be a suspect (and 9+ year old sensor).

Thanks again for all the help....wouldn't be at this point without you at all....