Neutral Light out, won't crank XB12s

[TheycallmeSpaz]

First day riding bike to work, went to leave from lunch and head back into work and neutral light won't come on at all... bike won't turn over even with clutch pulled in.

I searched a bit and this (pic below) is the most pertinent thread I found... seems like this is the issue.

2004 XB12s
-Buell Race Exhaust/ Race ECM <----- (idk if this makes any difference)

1) Turn switch on, bike in neutral, all gauges work, fuel pump kicks on, but will not crank.

2) Same as above, also pull clutch in... no crank.

3) Kick stand up or down, same as above... no crank.

** When I say crank, I mean the bike won't even turn over, fuel pump kicks on... but no click from starter, nothing. Cranked perfect this morning and all day...only started when neutral light went out**

I had to run and jump start the bike in 2nd to get back to work from lunch

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[34nineteen]

Try this:

Remove sprocket cover. Look to see if neutral wire came unplugged from sensor/wire broken/chafed,etc.

 

[TheycallmeSpaz]

Try this:

Remove sprocket cover. Look to see if neutral wire came unplugged from sensor/wire broken/chafed,etc.

Thank you kind sir, I figured I'd take the cover off when I got home from work and take a gander, check to ground... reckon I'll be jump starting it to head home from work haha

 

[34nineteen]

3 Torx T27 screws.

If you have the factory tool kit, it *should* have a T27 in there.

 

[user_deleted]

start with aaron's suggestions. if no success then do the following and keep in mind XB starting systems extremely simple:
1-the starter button gets its power source from the headlight circuit. check headlight fuse in fusebox.
2-faulty/failing neutral sensor switch typically causes erratic and/or no-start symptoms PLUS erratic idle on some models.
3-replace your starter relay. it's a few bucks at any auto parts store. remove...match up to new....crosses over to most all chrysler&ford a/c relays. when replacing CAREFULLY check the female pins that it engages into. they must be flawless
4-lastly.....often overlooked....check/clean/tighten your battery terminals and cable ends.

 

[TheycallmeSpaz]

start with aaron's suggestions. if no success then do the following and keep in mind XB starting systems extremely simple:
1-the starter button gets its power source from the headlight circuit. check headlight fuse in fusebox.
2-faulty/failing neutral sensor switch typically causes erratic and/or no-start symptoms PLUS erratic idle on some models.
3-replace your starter relay. it's a few bucks at any auto parts store. remove...match up to new....crosses over to most all chrysler&ford a/c relays. when replacing CAREFULLY check the female pins that it engages into. they must be flawless
4-lastly.....often overlooked....check/clean/tighten your battery terminals and cable ends.View attachment 6978

I pulled cover off when I got home and checked the neutral switch wire connection... nothing. So I ordered a neutral switch from Statesville HD...picking it up Monday. Also going to check continuity of starting system wiring. Thank you very very much for the simple explanation of the starting system. I will follow up with results!

Cheers !!!!

 

[Silverrider]

When my neutral switch was bad, the only thing it affected was the No green light all else was fine. I was able to get at it with a vise grip needle nose no special tools.

 

[njloco]

Isn't there anyway to test the switch ?

 

[Silverrider]

sure, continuity checker, ohm meter.

 

[Cooter]

You should actually test the switch first to see if you really need one, and spend the money on lotto tickets instead.

Or better yet, send that cash you are willing to waste directly to me!

 

[TheycallmeSpaz]

Update

Edited because I'm the "FNG"

Content removed, I reckon I was just trying to be personable


Anyways...Back on topic

So last night I grounded out the neutral safety switch and the neutral light came on... switch was in fact bad. So I pulled the belt off the front pulley/sprocket
and used some stout needle nose plier and installed the new switch(Part number is 33900-99) I picked up from Tilley's HD in Statesville. Got it all buttoned back up, now I have a neutral light but still no crank.

--->Turn switch on...
-gauges all come alive
-neutral light illuminated

--->Flip red kill switch to "on" position
-Fuel pump kicks on

(all looks ready to fire)

--->Push yellow start button
-Nothing, no click, no relay clicking, nothing... like I am pushing an empty button.

I swapped around relays and still nothing... I am picking up some relays today and going to see if this fixes problem tonight.

 

[user_deleted]

^^^^^^^ i realize you're a FNG on here....and the queen bee is attractive...and the trout is impressive....but let's stick to buells. this isn't facebook.

 

[TheycallmeSpaz]

^^^^^^^ i realize you're a FNG on here....and the queen bee is attractive...and the trout is impressive....but let's stick to buells. this isn't facebook.

Corrected buddy... apologies

 

[TheycallmeSpaz]

So I decided to check my relays before just buying new ones/throwing money at it.... they all check out good. I found a couple cross-reference relays that can be purchased instead of HD part # 31522-00

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So if the relays are good... I reckon last place to check will be the actual yellow start button/switch.

 

[user_deleted]

So if the relays are good... I reckon last place to check will be the actual yellow start button/switch.

it sources it's miniscule power demand from the headlight circuit.
XB electrical systems as per the fuse-box area consist of 3 relays and one blank provision. they cross over to common ford and chrysler a/c relays available for approx. $5 at any auto parts store. i've listed the relay cross reference numbers on here countless times.

 

[34nineteen]

According to your diagram, why not just jump terminal 87 to 30? Did you try that? Or at least look for voltage?

Did you apply power directly to the starter to ensure that the starter is still good? I'd doubt its bad, but its possible and at least you can rule that out.

Also, like Cooter mentioned, did you check the switch? Its a pretty simple setup, but can be accessed and torn apart by removing the two allen screws and about 3 tiny phillips screws. Pay attention to how it goes back together, since its a bit unintuitive compared to normal Japanese style switch/throttle assemblies.

I'm assuming you have a VOM/continuity tester and power supply since you mentioned testing the relays. If thats the case, these tests would be free.

 

[TheycallmeSpaz]

So if the relays are good... I reckon last place to check will be the actual yellow start button/switch.

it sources it's miniscule power demand from the headlight circuit.

I checked the headlight fuse, also head lights are on when switch is turned on. When I get home I will pull front shield and look into the circuit itself/connections...

Found this starting circuit PDF... for an 05' Firebolt... I assume this is same across most xb/r 's ?

[

 

[TheycallmeSpaz]

According to your diagram, why not just jump terminal 87 to 30? Did you try that? Or at least look for voltage?

Did you apply power directly to the starter to ensure that the starter is still good? I'd doubt its bad, but its possible and at least you can rule that out.

Also, like Cooter mentioned, did you check the switch? Its a pretty simple setup, but can be accessed and torn apart by removing the two allen screws and about 3 tiny phillips screws. Pay attention to how it goes back together, since its a bit unintuitive compared to normal Japanese style switch/throttle assemblies.

I'm assuming you have a VOM/continuity tester and power supply since you mentioned testing the relays. If thats the case, these tests would be free.

I certainly plan on doing this when I get back home from work... I just grabbed the relays and stuck them in my truck to test when I had time at work today. I am going to check continuity tonight from starter switch to relay socket, also the switch itself.

Thanks for the help!

 

[34nineteen]

I'd start downstream and work my way back "up".

If you have 12V going to the starter, and apply another 12V to energize the solenoid, the starter should activate, regardless of neutral switches, relays, yellow switches, etc.

If it fails that test, you are just chasing your tail checking out relays and whatnot. Don't mean to sound like a d!ck, just trying to help you solve your issue.

Also, on your post above.... when you push the yellow button, do the headlights go out? Lets not rule out a bad battery (bad battery does not necessarily always mean dead).

 

[BuellyBagger]

I'd start downstream and work my way back "up".

If you have 12V going to the starter, and apply another 12V to energize the solenoid, the starter should activate, regardless of neutral switches, relays, yellow switches, etc.

If it fails that test, you are just chasing your tail checking out relays and whatnot. Don't mean to sound like a d!ck, just trying to help you solve your issue.

Also, on your post above.... when you push the yellow button, do the headlights go out? Lets not rule out a bad battery (bad battery does not necessarily always mean dead).

For God sake if you jump your starter make damn sure the bike is in neutral!