Neutral light went out temporarily

[jl551c]

I jumped on my 2007 SS today and when looking for neutral I couldn't get a green neutral light on the dash. After a few moments I let the clutch out slowly and realized I was in fact in neutral, but the green dash light wasn't coming on. I rode on for a little bit and tried a few more times when stopped. Eventually the light came back on. Weird, I've had this bike for numerous years and never had this happen. Q: Has this ever happened to you? Any idea what may have caused this?

 

[34nineteen]

Why not pull the cover and look?

 

[Cooter]

The neutral switch is behind the engine pulley cover, one wire (Green IIRC). It can get clogged with engine junk on the inside and get sticky. It can be removed without pulling the sprocket but its a bit fiddly. Try needle nose pliers, its not in there very tight.
Put that wire to ground with the key on should light the neutral light. Pull the sensor out. They are cheap enough to just replace, or depress the little steel ball on the end and squirt some carb cleaner in it to get a better connection.
I've done that fix several times with success and never had to re-do it on the same bike.
Don't forget to have a beer.

 

[jl551c]

Thanks, it seems you're on to it with engine junk. The light is on now. I jumped the gun a bit by posting and was surprised to see lots of previous threads on this subject. Much more common than I thought.

 

[njloco]

If we took our ride up to Alaska it would have gotten plenty of use and you probably would never have had this problem. Don't listen to Cooter he doesn't realize what he's saying, have two beers minimum.

 

[Cooter]

Real "beer" starts at 8% :very_drunk:

and yes, I've heard long rides to Alaska have been known to permanently fix intermittent neutral lights. I recommend that repair

 

[jl551c]

If I was to solo ride to Alaska it'd be on my Uly, not my SS, LOL. BUT, if I clean up that switch I'm thinking at least 3 beers.

 

[Cooter]

That sounds like an epic trip, I would be interested even if it was on a Grom Perhaps maybe more so...

 

[Barrett]

Ward: Your neutral indicator switch is at the 3 o'clock position behind the front belt PULLEY...which is behind the pulley cover.
Rarely do they self-repair. It is a simple internal ball-and-spring style switch. If it continues to act up, replace it. An erratic neutral indicator switch will often times also affect idle speed and cause a low speed misfire/bucking sensation.
H-D Part # crosses over to 2003 and later XL model and is 33900-99. Available at any H-D dealership or online and infinite amount in system.

THREE POSSIBLE WAYS to remove and replace. This is AFTER THE BELT HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM BOTH BELT PULLEYS:
1-Needle nose pliers method as mentioned above by Shaughn..but the caveat, is that method often times results in trans fluid leaks.
2-Start with a 3/8" drive shorty style 5/8" socket...grind it down to fit behind pulley and over switch....and remove and replace
3-Loosen rear axle 21 turns...remove front pulley cover...remove belt...remove front pulley....R&R neutral switch. Great time to clean up the engine case, front pulley and check idler pulley bearings. Trans pulley nut is LEFT HAND THREADS and you will need factory pulley locking tool and nut driver socket to do the job. I keep these tools in stock here and can lend them to you
if necessary.

Pic courtesy of Ray from OZ.

 

[CC83]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oefbj4SaLWk

Try and get a longer one which I will be doing (just to have on hand). I was able to with a normal size socket and I cut it up similar but the longer one will give you better access and more room to turn socket. Just did this in the spring.

 

[njloco]

Barret, CC83, Both of you rock ! How many beers would you say the job is ?

 

[jl551c]

Thanks guys, that's a tremendous amount of help. I'm gonna order the switch and when/if the light goes out I'll change it out.

This might be the first glitch I've ever had on this bike. It's been rock solid reliable for years.

 

[CC83]

Barret, CC83, Both of you rock ! How many beers would you say the job is ?

:up::up::up::up::up:
Im just glad i could actually contribute to these forums instead of sucking them dry of whatever info im asking about or looking for.


Well if you count grinding and cutting socket.......maybe a 2/3 beer job.
Very simple and easy procedure. The best way would be to get a long deep socket so you can cut it around the front belt pulley. I had a deep socket but a longer one will work better. If I remember when I get home I will take a picture of mine and post it. But you should get the gist of what to do with video.

 

[jl551c]

Green light went out again. I took the opportunity to try to start in in neutral with clutch in and out. It wouldn't start with clutch out, but started with clutch in, so I think that confirms the switch is bad. So I ordered the switch today from my local HD dealer. $17.50. Another thing, I did notice some back firing and lower idle RPM as stated above. Posting for posterity.
Quick question: Has anyone tried a crow's foot to get at that switch? I'm still ready to tear up a socket, but just wondering.

 

[Cooter]

The crows foot attachments I have are too thick. Hence the needle nose solution. Needle nose vise grips work too if you have a set Its not on there very tight and theres no pressure behind it. It seals crankcase oil with a copper crush washer.
The tiny flat jaw adjustable pliers are awesome too and one of my favorite types of pliers:
Knipex:

 

[iron1]

CC83 Thank you for the tip, I made as socket like yours,It works great.

 

[CC83]

CC83 Thank you for the tip, I made as socket like yours,It works great.

Glad it worked. Not my video. Thats how I figured out the socket part was this guy. So whoever he is, he gets the credit.

 

[Thunderhead]

Oh yeah, those are the best - Knipex FTW!!