New guy from Guam: ‘09 XB12SCG/R Tail, random issues etc but she runs

[dukduk]

Been lurking, googling, and stalking on here, Reddit, and the FB groups.
Many owners-ago owner is/was a member here and she’s changed hands a few times. A guy at the Military Sportbike Riders Course from today was actually gonna buy it a couple of years ago but he said it ran like **** during the test ride: https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?12645-FS-2009-XB12-Lightning-Bolt

I downloaded the ‘09 Service Manual, ‘08 Electrical Manual, and ‘08 Ulysses Parts Catalog (couldn’t find the latter two for my model and year.) I learned how to do TPS reset and yes I do it. There was a CEL for the exhaust valve but I cleared it with Buelltooth and ECMDroid. Got the Jardine tune from them too, the decel popping is gone. It was running rough when I got it, some rides would have no power response like the ignition timing was cutting. I learned how to do TPS reset and yes I do it.

Things I’ve done so far:

1) Buelltooth and ECMDroid
2) Breather mod and catch can
3) New front flashers and relay
4) Clutch adjustment
5) Primary adjustment adjustment
6) HD Plugs
7) Uni filter
8) CRG mirrors
9) Repaired/replaced transmission breather and heat wrapped it (it was cut it 8” from the barb)
10) Checked wheel bearings and greased axles
11) Repaired/replaced fuel vent hose (was cut near base of the air box)
12) TPS resets, a lot of them, cold and hot. I let it idle for a couple mins after.

I learned how to do TPS reset and yes I do it.

Remaining current issues,(in no order of priority):
1) Speedometer inop, clean or replace VSS
2) Starter doesn’t engage/fuel pump won’t prime in the On position unless I turn it towards the resistance of the Off detent.
3) Sometimes has a low idle and stalls, cold or hot
4) Flaking anno on left fork
5) ECM is just flapping around under the pass. seat
6) Right seat rivet spins in subframe. Would like the QD seat kit.
7) Rear brake reservoir mount (lengthen hose?) now it’s just zip tied to subframe
8) Fan doesn’t kick on at Key Off (good or bad?) I did lower the run temp on Driod because it’s hot on Guam.
9) Wheel paint chipping
10) Big sprocket paint chipping
11) Engine V braces pitting/bubbling under paint
12) Front “windshield” modules pitting/bubbling
13) Needs heat shield and right scoop
14) I’d like to get a TunaBuell at some point for peace of mind

Stored codes https://imgur.com/gallery/KbsgtgI

She basically looks the same. I replaced the front turn signals and one of the owners inbetween put some flat, Christmas tree looking LED string lights on for rear flashers. The left fork anno is flaking metal off real bad, new factory SCG suspension is on my list after XMas spending. I have a guy who’s gonna go through her electrical and do some leak down and compression testing in the near future.

I learned how to do TPS reset and yes I do it.

Any tips or have parts I might be interested in, please reply or pm (if allowed)

 

[konarider94]

With all those codes and the issues you describe id be looking at electrical issues. Double check your ground connections for sure, maybe you have some broken wires or connections somewhere from movement too. The issue with the lightning bolt models is the wiring harnesses were different between the two. Something could have gotten rerouted/spliced in less than idea ways when they were combined. I don't know which one your bike actually started as. Having an ecm flapping like a f*ing bird cant be good either. Try to secure that to something.

 

[njloco]

The reason the ECM is flopping around under the seat is, these bike's seats would put pressure on the ECM when rider is sitting and riding on it and either crack the ECM or mess with the wiring. There are better ways though than just leaving it to flop around under the seat, you could put it on or sandwich it between two pieces of foam but most just move it so there is no seat interference, many also put an extra ground wire to it.

Replace all fuses and electrical contacts in the fuse box, check and clean and apply a good anti-corrossive on all grounds, no matter what they look like, then start your electrical tests.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[Silverrider]

Do you have a pic for us















Welcome ,Do you have a pic for us ?

 

[34nineteen]

+1 Exactly what Kona and Loco said.

 

[dukduk]

Thank you and copy all advice. Is copper anti-seize better than dielectric grease for the grounds?

VIN and Engine show it as a Lightning

The only active code I get during rides is the speed sensor.

I’ll have pics today but she’s super dirty, black doesn’t really help the cause. Thinking about vinyl wrapping her in Black Multicam.

Still need to check for intake seal leaks. I keep forgetting to get injector cleaner and when I do remember they’re out of stock.

 

[Silverrider]

One of our old members used Seafoam to fix all and clean injectors.

 

[dukduk]

I actually have some, is it safe? I was gonna run and rinse my primary since it has milky **** in due to the cut breather.

One of our old members used Seafoam to fix all and clean injectors.

 

[Cooter]

Dilectric grease is an insulator, NOT a conductor.

 

[konarider94]

The grease is more about preserving the metal to metal contact then actually being a conductor itself. For grounds on a motorcycle, dielectric or conductive grease like anti-seize will both be fine assuming you scuff the metal first. You can definitely use either one incorrectly. Putting dielectric grease on already corroded metal will likely make it worse. Anti seize in a wire connector or fuse block should probably be avoided, but it would be good for metal to metal grounds like the sub-frame to frame connection.