no headlights and no button start

[buellbum]

here we go half way through our ride today all is going well bike runs great all is in order, stop for breakfast come out get geared up and the fireboltxbr12 doesn't start not a click and no headlight not even high beam bike bump starts no problem runs great we get off the mountain no problem not a hiccup just no headlight tail light is fine brake light fine, checked fuses all show good swaped around starter relay with aux relay which share all the same numbers nothing still no start we do the code jumper light click s off a 21 I cant find 21 anywhere. any ideas any help would help

 

[jimijeans]

Welcome to the Forum.You may want to do the Code check again due to I have never seen a code you are describing on a Buell in 33 years.. That Said remove the battery and have it load tested somewhere at an auto parts store especially if the Battery is more than 3 years old.. Then Reinstall the Battery check the voltage at the battery while Engine is Idling and should be 12.6 Volts at Idle and climb up as you rev up the RPMs to 3'200 and Volts should be around 14 Volts..
Now while you are doing this Stator and Voltage Test gently move the Key in the Tumbler.
Possible the Starter Button has bad contacts inside.. Gently spray (with Key & Start Kill switch OFF) some W/D Forty in the Starter Button only. you may need to slightly Loosen up the Screws so it can be turned upwards a bit so as to work easier. That also helps with the Spray straw on the W/D 40 Can to get the spray inside the Button.
Possible the Starter or Relay is in need of replacement or a Starter rebuild. You can always tap it on the Right side gently to see if it is sticking. Sometimes the jump start is enough of a jolt it will get you going. You can check your Low Beam Bulb separately with some wire and your bike battery( (Key Switch turned off) you won't need to remove the Bulb just the wire and the boot slid back. .
Careful with the jump starting get the cables off quick as can usually without the other Vehicle running, you can fry the wiring and short the starter solenoid . It is possible the low beam blew out previous if not an individual test of the bulb and checking of the Fuses in that area will determine that. problem. .I have seen regulators cause overcharging and pop the low beam.. OR the Clip broke that holds in the Bulb & ground out the Bulb.
Well Small Things First. Try the Starter Button cleaning first . Good Luck. *Jimi

 

[jimijeans]

Oh Yeah, one more thing it has been a while since I have seen a code 21 which is the Inneractive Exhaust Actuator up inside the Air Box.. That came to me after I had posted earlier. That will not create the problem you have explained. It will be a different problem
The Problem will be causing Driveability issues, and over heating IF that is the Problem it is Possible if it has been going on for some time and just caught up to you . The Inneractive Exhaust Valve controls the flow of Exhaust exiting the Engine upon use of the Throttle..
If you are on the Highway it may not seem to run badly but the heat will cause the Engine to really heat up & shorten the life of the Battery, and Starter System. Traffic would be the real killer heat issue wise. If you Remove the Cable at the Box under the Air Box then the Exhaust Valve on the Muffler needs to be opened. You can do what a lot of Riders do Remove the Exhaust Muffler, remove the Valve inside the Muffler and get an emulator from American Sport Bike .com to plug in where the Box under the Air Box has been unplugged or it will set a code leaving the Yellow Engine or Cel. light on all the time. Some riders fix the Box and that is easy to do . The Part is expensive but can be changed in less than an Hour. Either way hope it is a easy fix. Hope this helps. *Jimi

 

[buellbum]

Jimi thanks for your reply it help me revisit my basic diagnostics, basically went back through the fuses and found a simple fuse for the headlights out and that interrupted the starter go figure, after reading your thoughts about the exhaust and heat taking its toll I dropped the stock exhaust back off and hooked up the ecm spy shut of the interactive exhaust servo burned in my updated map and now she runs hard and strong again I don't ride it to often so the loud pipe isn't all that bad and the pipe looks good thanks for your help

 

[jimijeans]

Glad you got it done. The Exhaust on the Bike the Stock Muffler you can cut out the Valve and pipe that area and it will sound really good and midrange torque will pick up slightly. Plus you won't have to worry about the Engine becoming a Oil Burner quickly Check out some You Tube videos on the VooDoo muffler it works really well and kinda follows the stock pattern only better. Ride Safe. .*Jimi