Oh no! My problem is back :(

[BikerGirl27]

Please read my original post for more details:
http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-For.../Troubleshooting/Dont-want-to-sell-her...HELP

I thought she was fixed but only a couple weeks after replacing the stock ECM with the custom D&D exhaust Eric Buell Racing ECM she has gone back to running poorly, although not as bad as it was before. After riding for about 15 minutes, if I come to a stop or slow down for a turn the bike seems to "chug" like it's choking.
The Buell hasn't cut off on me yet but has come very close.

What is the problem? I don't have a garage so it's difficult to do anything major mechanically.
Does anyone know of a place I can take my bike to get fixed around the DC metro area?

Also, I just found out I will be moving across the country and will probably be selling the Buell (trying to fix her first) and selling one of my cars: 03 Subaru Forester if anyone is interested.

I'm so frustrated.

Jessica

 

[Loki]

The bike chugs when slowing down or turning? That sounds normal to me, you are letting the bike get to low in the rpms and it is trying to die. When it is chuging like that pull in the clutch or shift down, see if that helps.

 

[wolfo68]

Well if it's running hot you may need to add fuel to the maps. When mine was acting that way I had a cam timing issue that I straightened out and it ran fine. Another idea is to check seals and gaskets if not replace them.
I had major running issues again before I rebuilt the top end.

 

[BikerGirl27]

Oh yea, I know what you mean with the "normal" chug but this is def not normal. It does this when it is completely stopped at a light (after being warmed up)

For example if I am at a stop light waiting in neutral it will run at really low rpms and sound like it's about to cut off. This happens when I am not doing anything, no revving the engine or messing with the clutch.

I would think this is normal but I also have another bike that does not do this.

Jessica

 

[konarider94]

because it ran fine for a while this leads me to think its a sensor issue again, and the ecu has corrected itself to feedback from a sensor that is erroneous. things that may be the issue, O2 sensor, IAT sensor, and engine temp.

do you have ecmspy? you can run the engine while connected to it to verify all the values make sense.

 

[BuellyBagger]

/\ im with kona. @ least that check doesnt require nething but a laptop and cable. Wouldnt hurt to do a check of the intake seals, thats also pretty simple.

 

[Rhino1]

...and just for sh*ts and giggles, I'd check the air cleaner--maybe its loaded with oil and not breathing properly... I'd also check all connectors I could reach, plug wires, etc.

 

[Mark XB12r]

Sorry to hear Jess, I remember telling you to get ECM Spy the Last time... Wish you luck... Im positive you will get lots of great advice.

 

[P3_techman]

I was going to say on the last thread to go for the simple solution first, seems to me like it just needs an idle adjustment. As the bike heats up the air coming in gets hotter and hotter, which makes it less dense. This changes the amount of fuel required for combustion. Under normal circumstances this wouldn't even be noticeable or even relevant, but in your case I think it could be your problem. Try removing the "snorkel" from your intake on the left side of the airbox, that will allow more air to flow. Then, check your idle adjustment with the bike hot. Probably just needs to be kicked up a bit.

If you haven't already you should finish wrapping those headers too
I may be completely wrong but atleast it's free.

Do a log run as well so you can see what it is doing, if you post the results on here I'm sure there will be someone that can say, "well there's your problem!"

 

[Dingo]

first of all, I would go back to the original Muffler..and install a right side scoop...
the color of your exhaust pipe says all....way too hot... [down]

 

[konarider94]

It is hot, but a muffler swap is not enough to do that. Otherwise half the bikes on this forum would be having the same issue.

 

[anrkizm95]

'08+ TPS Reset Procedure:

- Turn on the key.

- Set the kill switch to the run position.

- Don’t start the engine. Rotate the throttle from fully closed (gently forced closed) to fully open (gently held open), and then back again to closed (gently forced closed).

- Repeat 2 times for a total of 3. Hold each position (fully open, fully closed) for 1 full second.

- Turn the key off and on.

 

[BuellyBagger]

I would go back to the original Muffler

What?[confused]


luv the D&D. def. not the cause of the issue (unless it is plugged somehow) Wait, Hey ya know maybe u should check that. Excessive back pressure could cause this prob. possibly. Stick a pen light down there and have a look.

 

[theMelvster6]

my '05 xb9sx with D&D, race maps burned, and k&n filter w/ open airbox. Also installed the right side scoop. I occasionally get a low idle while sitting at an idle. I have a normal idle around 900-1000, and every now and again she acts like she is loadin up like a carbed bike and idles around 600-700, i just give it a lil gas and it smooths out. It happens when the engine is warmed up and I've been ridin for a while. i dunno if those are similar conditions. No other issues tho...and i have been getting 40-45 mpg. I haven't checked the AFV in a while, and my fan comes on every now and again, but I am not too worried about it. It hasn't blown up yet...lol

 

[OldGeezer]

I'm with kona on this as well and it can't hurt to do a tps reset as anrkizm describes, but I think you need to hook up ECMSpy and see what is going on with your sensors and AFV to really solve this problem. Also check you intake seals, though if it ran well for a while that is probably not the issue.

 

[Iamarchangel]

First skip all the nonsense about the pipe colour and wrapping. Those people have no clue what they are talking about.

You're making a better guess with choking so now you have to chase down the fuel enrichment circuit.

There's no codes so look in places where there's no sensors.

Checking the air filter is sound advice as is checking the plug cables. Hint: ratty through all rpm range - think air/fuel: okay at higher rpm - think ignition.

Two problem areas in my R that lead to similar symptoms: rear cylinder plug wire grounding against cylinder head; loose throttle body to cylinder head joint.

On another thread, somebody resolved a similar issue by replacing the relays, go figure.

 

[Miami78]

Is it acting anything like this:

 

[BikerGirl27]

@Miami - It's not random sounding. The sound runs in a pattern

I'm feeling pretty much like a girl right now....lol
I think my problem might have been just bc of low gas! It seems to be doing ok now. the rpms still run a little low so I might make that idle adjustment. I think this is going to work.

Crossing my fingers!
Jessica

 

[d_adams]

Why does that sound like an open header?

 

[Miami78]

Haha Dean...d&d!