neilrl79
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Damn, if I wasn't stuck at work i'd be doing this RIGHT NOW!
Oil viscosity 20w50 vs 50
- Thread starter Theycallmecrash
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Damn, if I wasn't stuck at work i'd be doing this RIGHT NOW!
Alfatango1
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Because at most temperatures a zero weight oil would not coat your vital parts enough at start up.
In the ten pages presented by AE Haas, the exact opposite was cautioned. The argument was that virtually all weights of practically available oils are too viscous to provide good startup protection. If you have read through the report, I'm curious to hear your thoughts on the claims there.
Alfatango1
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I will check it out and report back.
Just for your reference, beer at 68 degrees F (20 Degrees C) has a Kinematic viscosity of 1.8 cST or 32 Saybolt seconds (SSU).
Kinematic viscosity of various fluids
Kinematic viscosity of various fluids
From now on every vehicle I buy I will just toss the owners manual out the window. Then join a website of like owners and rely on everyone elses instructions because I can't read or make decisions for myself.
IMO if you need to ask about what kind of oil to use you should sell your vehicle and start riding the bus.
That being said I have 37,000 miles on my bike with only a headlight element failure. I read my manual btw. If you bought a bike and the owner didnt have the manual, then you bought from the wrong person.
IMO if you need to ask about what kind of oil to use you should sell your vehicle and start riding the bus.
That being said I have 37,000 miles on my bike with only a headlight element failure. I read my manual btw. If you bought a bike and the owner didnt have the manual, then you bought from the wrong person.
This has nothing to do with disegarding the owners manual. Where do you read that? Certainly not in this thread. Nothing to do with not being able making decisions for ourselves. On the contrary, why would I be asking why Buell recommends 20W-50 if I wasn't trying to make an educated decision for myself? It is for the very fact that I know the developers spend years of research and testing to reach a recommendation that I am trying to understand why AE Haas says engines can benefit even more at startup from a 0W-XX oil.
BTW, 20 years of motorcycles/autos and not a single oil-related failure myself. And you know what? I still want to learn more about oil. Why would that bother you?
BTW, 20 years of motorcycles/autos and not a single oil-related failure myself. And you know what? I still want to learn more about oil. Why would that bother you?
Theycallmecrash
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Really? Always gotta be that guy. Some of us want to understand what is actually going on, as well was why this is the best course. If i wanted a book to tell me what is the best course of action id read the bible.
Theycallmecrash
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Self inflicted *************.... Win.
One thing to think about...
"I wonder how they came up with 20w50 in Troy Michigan..." Probably because they have plenty of hot and cold fluctuation in temperature?
One thing I do have to point out is that often not using manufacture suggested fluids will void warranties.
Why would they want you to put something other than the best fluid for the bike? They don't want people going out there and having sub-par results. After all they had a reputation to uphold. if a bike ran poorly on their suggested oil, they'd probably suggest a different oil. To me, it's as simple as that.
straight 50 might be good if you're in a always hot climate. I imagine here in ohio when it's 55 degrees out, that 50w oil is going to be thick as hell. causing the engine to get poor oil flow, as a result you could be looking at engine damage. SOOO we put in 20w50 so that when it's colder the oil has a lower viscosity allowing it to flow easily through a cold engine. if the oil is too viscous it's just going to shear off and not coat the internals properly.
Anything less than 50 in a hot engine might once again be too viscous.
in my mind: too thick = screwed, too thin = screwed. 20w50 = just right.
Additionally, if you're in a hot climate, the oil is going to heat up to full viscosity much faster then it would in a cold climate. I don't think you need to know the science behind it to understand what it does and why it does it. After all, many years and millions of dollars have been put into reducing all the science of oil down to a few numbers for us to understand. These are numbers that should be taken at face value.
correct me if I'm wrong, but if the manufacture of the machine says 20w50 they probably have a reason.
Put in what you want, I'm using what the manufacture says to put in.
Hey, it's not rocket science, it's fluid dynamics
"I wonder how they came up with 20w50 in Troy Michigan..." Probably because they have plenty of hot and cold fluctuation in temperature?
One thing I do have to point out is that often not using manufacture suggested fluids will void warranties.
Why would they want you to put something other than the best fluid for the bike? They don't want people going out there and having sub-par results. After all they had a reputation to uphold. if a bike ran poorly on their suggested oil, they'd probably suggest a different oil. To me, it's as simple as that.
straight 50 might be good if you're in a always hot climate. I imagine here in ohio when it's 55 degrees out, that 50w oil is going to be thick as hell. causing the engine to get poor oil flow, as a result you could be looking at engine damage. SOOO we put in 20w50 so that when it's colder the oil has a lower viscosity allowing it to flow easily through a cold engine. if the oil is too viscous it's just going to shear off and not coat the internals properly.
Anything less than 50 in a hot engine might once again be too viscous.
in my mind: too thick = screwed, too thin = screwed. 20w50 = just right.
Additionally, if you're in a hot climate, the oil is going to heat up to full viscosity much faster then it would in a cold climate. I don't think you need to know the science behind it to understand what it does and why it does it. After all, many years and millions of dollars have been put into reducing all the science of oil down to a few numbers for us to understand. These are numbers that should be taken at face value.
correct me if I'm wrong, but if the manufacture of the machine says 20w50 they probably have a reason.
Put in what you want, I'm using what the manufacture says to put in.
Hey, it's not rocket science, it's fluid dynamics
Theycallmecrash
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Best answer hands down. Simply a logical answer. I changed the oil sticking with mobile 1 20w50, 22k miles to go before i can argue with Lesley.
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So what is the best brand 20w50 for a Buell Firebolt?
Theycallmecrash
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Ha! Trouble maker!
I've been buying HD Screamin' Eagle SYN3 up until now (at $12/quart it's a rip off)
I'm thinking I might try mobile vtwin, or royal purple 20w50 real soon.
I've ran royal purple in my car which has seen the track, and track-like driving for YEARS. I mean I beat the living hell out of my little car and never once has it shown a lubrication issue.
I know what you're saying, I read the threads I post on (who want's to look like an idiot on purpose)
At the same time, I also try to have an informative reply for all those who have posted, and the people that come in the future.
Also, I believe my reply tells you why you should use 20w50 in the form of a defense for the manual.
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Can you use Amsoil with a breather reroute or not?
