Rear axle loosening

[jamason_2000]

Back story....... Rotating engine to replace rear rocker box gasket....... Trying to loosen the rear axle in order to remove tensioner pulley, my 22.95 hd bought axle nut breaks. Huge chunk missing. Then oh yeah my inner redneck came out, back end of a large spark plug socket fits perfectly......... Invert the shorty extension and try it out. BAM extension breaks sends shit everywhere. I am stuck with a bike on a lift, motor a third of the way out and pissed off.

 

[Shawns]

Thrust or heat. I don't think yours is reverse thread like on the 1125

 

[pos90]

Did you remove the axle pinch bolt?

 

[rchuff]

Like pos90 said remove or loosen a good bit . ( axle pinch bolt ) . When you get the axle out make sure you anti-seize the threads and the other end .

 

[user_deleted]

purchase the finest penetrating oil/aerosal you can find. remove axle pinch bolt. it is the cap bolt under right side of swingarm directly towards front of axle. remove brake caliper and suspend from left stirrup. you are doing this to avoid getting penetrating fluid on the pads. be able to spin rear wheel. now start spraying every crevice to include swingarm to axle on both sides, axle to bearings both sides. let soak, spin tire, repeat. let soak over nite. repeat next morning. then use the ratchet side of your 13/16th spark plug socket with 1/2" short extension, 1/2' ratchet driver, and 3 ft. long breaker bar on said ratchet. it will work. if it doesn't you're not following my instructions.

 

[jamason_2000]

Love it lunatic, yes I removed pinch bolt. I just cannot believe how tight this thing is.

 

[snrusnak]

I had to have my wife lay on the bars to hold the front down while I bounced on a 2' breaker bar with all my 220lb weight.

FINE 230lb

 

[tomzickuhr]

Mine was really tight also. Used liquid wrench, a heat gun and patience. It came loose eventually.

 

[TheWood]

Very old thread I know, but I'm having the same problem. I will make up a grade 8 bolt(head ground down slightly from 15/16" to make it a perfect snug 7/8") with welded nut(15/16")to be used as my removal socket. I don't have the factory axle tool and don't trust that the multi-axle tool like the one sold at St.Paul will hold up to impacting off the axle on my Uly, which is what I'm thinking of trying. My question is; in addition to the lube soaking, is it ok to use my 1/2" drive electric impact wrench to remove axle? Or do I risk beating up the axle end? I do have the proper torque wrench for the reinstallation, but thought the impact would be helpful for the removal. I've already broke an inferior bolt trying to remove the axle, and is why I'm going for the grade 8. It is being quite stubborn!
EDIT: Yes, I've removed the pinch bolt, and am turning C.C.

 

[34nineteen]

Very old thread I know, but I'm having the same problem. I will make up a grade 8 bolt(head ground down slightly from 15/16" to make it a perfect snug 7/8") with welded nut(15/16")to be used as my removal socket. I don't have the factory axle tool and don't trust that the multi-axle tool like the one sold at St.Paul will hold up to impacting off the axle on my Uly, which is what I'm thinking of trying. My question is; in addition to the lube soaking, is it ok to use my 1/2" drive electric impact wrench to remove axle? Or do I risk beating up the axle end? I do have the proper torque wrench for the reinstallation, but thought the impact would be helpful for the removal. I've already broke an inferior bolt trying to remove the axle, and is why I'm going for the grade 8. It is being quite stubborn!
EDIT: Yes, I've removed the pinch bolt, and am turning C.C.

It may just be corroded in there. Even if you get the axle loose, it may still be stuck in the bike. You may need to sawzall/hacksaw it out. The axle is steel, so I dont think the impact will damage it. I can't remember if the rear axle is LH or RH threaded, so double check that C.C. is the correct rotation to loosen.
Hopefully you dont get to that point, but if you do, I know a guy who can get you a replacement on the cheap (as long as its the 2 bearing wheel).

Shut up CoOter.

 

[TheWood]

Thanks for your reply. Damn, If I have to take a hacksaw to it, that will take many many beers! I'll keep posted how my "Grade 8 tool" & impact work out. This wasn't suppose to have turned into a project!

 

[Cooter]

Ya, its the front axle on an XB thats left hand thread, the rear is normal so CC is correct.
You said the pinch bolt is loose so impacting it is fine to break it loose, get it to turn once and STOP. Spinning it out with an impact can gall the swing arms aluminum threads with the steel axle.
Alternatively, theres plenty of clearance for a cheater bar, but pull DOWN and make sure the bike is stable with that kind of force.

Soak the head of the axle too. it can corrode in the arm as well, and I wouldn't be afraid to impact the multi tool. Your grade 8 tool should be fine but I wouldn't be surprised if the multi tool was still stronger. Don't use the 3/8" square drive hole on the tool, use a socket on the big hex.

Anti-seize before reinstalling and follow the procedure to re-tighten. 25ft/lbs, spin, back off 4 turns, 50ft/lbs, then blue loc-tite and torque pinch bolt 22lb/ft*

If Ol' Sanford doesn't have a 2-bearing axle for you first, I do. PM me if you need it.

*IIRC but look it up! Its not much and Ive had to heli-coil so many of those...:upset:

 

[TheWood]

Ya, its the front axle on an XB thats left hand thread, the rear is normal so CC is correct.
You said the pinch bolt is loose so impacting it is fine to break it loose, get it to turn once and STOP. Spinning it out with an impact can gall the swing arms aluminum threads with the steel axle.
Alternatively, theres plenty of clearance for a cheater bar, but pull DOWN and make sure the bike is stable with that kind of force.

Soak the head of the axle too. it can corrode in the arm as well, and I wouldn't be afraid to impact the multi tool. Your grade 8 tool should be fine but I wouldn't be surprised if the multi tool was still stronger. Don't use the 3/8" square drive hole on the tool, use a socket on the big hex.

Anti-seize before reinstalling and follow the procedure to re-tighten. 25ft/lbs, spin, back off 4 turns, 50ft/lbs, then blue loc-tite and torque pinch bolt 22lb/ft*

If Ol' Sanford doesn't have a 2-bearing axle for you first, I do. PM me if you need it.

*IIRC but look it up! Its not much and Ive had to heli-coil so many of those...:upset:

All excellent info Shaughn, thank you. The multi-axle tool from St.Paul says that it's not intended to be used w/ impact wrench, and is why I was going to make my own. But if the multi-tool is in fact stronger, as you suggest, then I will definitely order one. So.... a 24mm deep socket will fit over that first step of the tool? Or will I need to cut off that unused end?
I hope I won't need a replacement axle, but thank you guys for letting me know you have one available.

 

[Barrett]

Bob: Follow my specific directions above when I was user_deleted. Key is to soak every crevice with finest penetrating fluid you can get your hands on and soak....respray...soak. Just like that. Then put together the below combo in half-inch drive. 3/8th won't cut it. An aggressive high-powered 1/2" drive impact will tend to bitch up the axle drive end, potentially causing a huge problem. And I mean huge. My clever dedicated device is an old-school 13/16th inch spark plug socket in 1/2" drive with the inner foam insulator removed. REAR AXLE THREADS RIGHT HAND....FRONT AXLE THREADS LEFT HAND
Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 2' piece of pipe on it and apply steady pressure. It will break the bond of corrosion and dirt.

 

[Cooter]

Great trick with the socket Barrett, sadly out of at least 10 of my spark plug sockets, only one had the square drive holes is broached completely through and I split it doing exactly this job:upset: It was just a cheap old Craftsman version I got as a new fresh faced Tech in the 90's. Proof the old tools are still better, and why I never throw one away:angel: Maybe explains why my main toolbox is taller than me? Haha.

Bob, you can use either tool as long as the driving hex is as wide and deep as it can get, splitting the axle head shouldn't be a worry. I think the nut (not head) width of your homemade hex will be fine, just letting you know the multi-tool has done well for me in extreme situations as long as you use the external hex to drive it. My go-to is a 24mm deep impact 6-point socket on the multi-axle tool, driven by a OG IR231, and has seen a LOT of buggered axles lose to it's power of persuasion pretty quickly.

and not to disagree with his highness above:love_heart:, but IMO, a good high power impact works for exactly what this situation needs. A high rapid shock load will ultimately need less torque to do the job and be easier on the bike than 600ft/lbs of beer soaked man trying to hang off a breaker bar with a bike on stands. It's why we don't 'push' nails in. YMMV.

TLR
Just break it loose with a quality impact, stop/re-soak, continue by hand, is my successful method to avoid heating and galling the long threads.

Good luck buddy, I'm sure it will work out!

 

[34nineteen]

and with that said, school is out!

Principal Barrett will be keeping an eye on you slackers!

 

[TheWood]

HaHa. After reading John's post (and even after I just built my own axle tool) I started looking around the shop for a 1/2" drive 13/16" spark plug socket for backup plan, but no such luck(only 3/8" drives). I'd need to buy one. I'll be going for it w/ my triple nutted homemade version probably Thursday.

 

[34nineteen]

HaHa. After reading John's post (and even after I just built my own axle tool) I started looking around the shop for a 1/2" drive 13/16" spark plug socket for backup plan, but no such luck(only 3/8" drives). I'd need to buy one. I'll be going for it w/ my triple nutted homemade version probably Thursday.

It sounds counter-intuitive, but you may want to try tightening the axle first before loosening. Sometimes that will help break one end free and making loosening easier. Dont tighten too much, just enough to see the axle move a little, maybe an 1/8 to 1/4 turn. IF you can just get it to turn a little, that should make it a lot easier to remove.

You may want to mark the axle and swingarm with a line to keep track of progress.

Good luck!

 

[dpa]

I got my xbr with no tool kit and needed to remove the wheel to change tire and replace fuel pump. I had similar problems breaking heads off of reverse spark plug sockets etc. I was able to source a 7/8 inch Allen at the All American Tool company in Fort Lauderdale FL. Cost was $23 and it was super easy to break mine using a simple 2 inch pipe. All American Tool Phone: (954) 525-8665. Honestly, I think the 7/8 Allen is probably much better than the OEM socket that came w the bike.

 

[TheWood]

SUCCESS! Thankyou all for your input. I couldn't wait for tomorrow, and didn't want to be accused of being a slacker.:eagerness: Below is pic. of my triple nutted axle tool. Plenty of room for my 1/2" drive deep impact socket. Because I was concerned about the heat from welding the nuts compromising the tensile strength of the bolt, and having an old welders helmet that I can barely see out of(need to order a new auto-darkening one), I decided to generously coat both sides of everything, and all the threads with JB Weld. After giving it 2 full days to cure in the house, it past w/ flying colors. I'm guessing I applied about 200+# of force to the breaker bar. If it didn't budge, I would have proceeded to the impact, but glad that I didn't need it. It was kind of a JB Weld strength test; although hitting it w/ the impact would have been the better test.
View attachment Axle tool pic..pdf