Starter cuts the power off...

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Clanofwolves

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This just occurred, went to start (battery good and on trickle), everything lights up, fuel pump works, go to push starter, everything dies. Checked wiring and connections under seat. Everything lights up, go to start, same thing, everything dies. Starter connection? Relay?

Ideas?
 
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Check ignition relay if the battery is OK. But maybe battery lost juice and voltage drops too low when the starter is trying to crank the engine so relay disconnects. Try connect a good battery, maybe car battery if you have one and test it. Or just connect voltmeter to the battery and see how low voltage drops during cranking the engine.
 
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Thanks guys! I’ve put the battery on a real trickle charger in lieu of the small battery tender, and I’ll have it load tested.

Question: assuming the battery turns out OK, what should I look at? Does the starter relay kill power to everything for a time if it’s going bad?

This is interesting; I’ll let you know what I find on the battery. It’s rainy here so no loss. Thanks again!
 
Question: assuming the battery turns out OK, what should I look at? Does the starter relay kill power to everything for a time if it’s going bad?

dave: typically no is the answer. all it does is receive a voltage "trigger signal" from the switchgear mounted starter button....then it substantially raises the voltage signal and sends on its way to the starter assembly solenoid. that's the whole purpose of the relay. having said that i'm seeing starter/key switch/ignition relays starting to fail at alarming rates now mostly due to age. for the $6 price of admission i just simply replace with new. what ricky suggested always highly recommended. these XB's are hell on batteries. an odd fresh electrical gremlin rearing its ugly head in conjunction with start up issue? almost always the battery and/or cable connections.
 
Perfect advise so far, you've got some qualified help already:)

Let me add that a loose or corroded battery connection will do that exact thing. No matter what, this will be easy do diagnose if you have a voltmeter.

Put it on the battery. You should have >12.5 volts. Press the starter button and you should have >9.6 volts.
 
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Great additional info. I checked the connections first, and insured they were clean, dielectric greased and tight. I know how the relay works, I just couldn’t figure why, after the power went from the electronics to the starter, and the starter failed to turn over the engine, why all the electrical indicators went dark for a few minutes. Battery I’m assuming or a faulty relay?

The battery showed good voltage, but the amperage was below spec on the load test. The Autozone day didnt carry a battery with the recommended starting amps. This something I have to go to the HD dealership for?

New Relay too or......?
 
below is the link to the best battery you'll ever find for XB's at the absolute best price. 220CCA's which is outstanding.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DEKA-ETX14...817959&hash=item4d6d7e8475:g:jDMAAOSwOFBafYkT

all 3 relays the same and also the same for all years XB's. factory part # is H-D#31522-00
cross-overs are: 2005 ford focus a/c relay
Panasonic CM1-D-12V $4 each online.
NAPA V11214 $5 at napa
NAPA v11190 $5 at napa
Duralast part #19283---autozone/pepboys/etc etc

you're welcome.
 
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Question: assuming the battery turns out OK, what should I look at? Does the starter relay kill power to everything for a time if it’s going bad?

dave: typically no is the answer. all it does is receive a voltage "trigger signal" from the switchgear mounted starter button....then it substantially raises the voltage signal and sends on its way to the starter assembly solenoid. that's the whole purpose of the relay. having said that i'm seeing starter/key switch/ignition relays starting to fail at alarming rates now mostly due to age. for the $6 price of admission i just simply replace with new. what ricky suggested always highly recommended. these XB's are hell on batteries. an odd fresh electrical gremlin rearing its ugly head in conjunction with start up issue? almost always the battery and/or cable connections.

Perfect advise so far, you've got some qualified help already:)

Let me add that a loose or corroded battery connection will do that exact thing. No matter what, this will be easy do diagnose if you have a voltmeter.

Put it on the battery. You should have >12.5 volts. Press the starter button and you should have >9.6 volts.

below is the link to the best battery you'll ever find for XB's at the absolute best price. 220CCA's which is outstanding.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DEKA-ETX14...817959&hash=item4d6d7e8475:g:jDMAAOSwOFBafYkT

all 3 relays the same and also the same for all years XB's. factory part # is H-D#31522-00
cross-overs are: 2005 ford focus a/c relay
Panasonic CM1-D-12V $4 each online.
NAPA V11214 $5 at napa
NAPA v11190 $5 at napa
Duralast part #19283---autozone/pepboys/etc etc

you're welcome.

Thanks all!!!! Fantastic help; I’m replacing the battery and I’ll look at the relays too; maybe go ahead and replace them if they’re easy to get.

Real thanks for the relay numbers and options; that’s very useful; props!!

BTW, What’s the difference in the two NAPA part numbers? That’s kinda my go-too round here.
 
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Before you start swapping parts by totally guessing.....


What did the voltmeter read? (hint: when testing the battery like that, put the leads on the actual cables, not the screws or battery terminals) I'm betting bad cell or corrosion under the terminals.
 
Before you start swapping parts by totally guessing.....


What did the voltmeter read? (hint: when testing the battery like that, put the leads on the actual cables, not the screws or battery terminals) I'm betting bad cell or corrosion under the terminals.

Had it load tested off the bike after trickle charging it on a large unit overnight. Done at NAPA; I was with the guy testing it; went through all the cycles three times. Bad cell. My bike has all good connections and grounds, I own a ‘62 Triumph TR4 with all original Lucas wiring, gear, switches and gauges, so I’m super anal retentive about that kinda thing, haha. Ordered a new battery via the eBay link as I received that same advice from another source too.

The relays however are still in question...
 
the bad cell rears its ugly head via a multi-meter and cranking mode. meter will drop to 1....then virtually 0 volts. ALWAYS the indicator of a bad cell. know what i'd do dave regarding the relays? they're all the same....3 per fuse box. ignition/accessory/key switch....all the same and rated @ 20 amps. remove one...any one...and take to any auto parts store. same as common chrysler and ford a/c relays. match it up and be sure replacement at least 20 amps minimum. carry as a spare along with a few assorted blade fuses under the seat somewhere. i carry small assortment in plastic sandwich bag taped to front of battery.
 
the bad cell rears its ugly head via a multi-meter and cranking mode. meter will drop to 1....then virtually 0 volts. ALWAYS the indicator of a bad cell. know what i'd do dave regarding the relays? they're all the same....3 per fuse box. ignition/accessory/key switch....all the same and rated @ 20 amps. remove one...any one...and take to any auto parts store. same as common chrysler and ford a/c relays. match it up and be sure replacement at least 20 amps minimum. carry as a spare along with a few assorted blade fuses under the seat somewhere. i carry small assortment in plastic sandwich bag taped to front of battery.

Sounds like a plan; I’m all in on that one!
 
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