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To those with an incurable sputter in the mid-range.

Buellxb Forum

Help Support Buellxb Forum:

What if I do this to my bike and I still can't ride a motorcycle very well?
Could I blame you? I keed I keed.

Hey thanks for posting this up. My STT had some old battery/bad ground issues. This was part of the fix and I appreciate your sharing it with us.

Ten gauge is the ticket by the way.

Levi
 
^^^^^PICS PLEEEEEEEEEAAAAASSSSEEEEE! I don't read well :D

Seriously pics would help! [up] thanks Spud!
 
No a ground directly to the main point at the side rail is best as described, electricity takes the path of least resistance so give it what it needs a short direct route!
 
the point of going straight to the neg batt post is to bypass the wireing harness. You should be using a larger gauge wire also. The harness uses some small gauges and this is to help take the grounding load off the harness and alow a better path to the batt. I noticed imedietly that my bike started easier and idled smoother when I did it.
 
Alright if I made a "Y" wire that went from both coil bolts and straight to the tail ground (off the battery) would it make any difference at all than 1 wire from one bolt?
 
Its not hard Guys......

1.Remove your seat
2.Remove your airbox cover
3.Remove the airbox top
4.Remove air filter
5.Remove airbox bottom
6.Locate coil on left top side of motor
7.Remove rear most coil retaining bolt
8.Take recomended size wire and feed it from coil
retaining bolt to neg batt post.
9.Put correct size wire terminal on wire ends
10.Reinsert coil bolt through wire terminal and tighten
11.Connect wire at Neg Batt post
12.Make sure wire is not pinched at any point
13.Reinstall lower airbox
14.Reinstall airfilter
15.Reinstall Airbox Top
16.Reinstall airbox cover
17.Reinstall Seat
18.Take for a ride and see if it helped your problem
 
interesting..gonna yank the airbox and give that a try..thanks for the idea!
mine has always been cold blooded and still misses when holding around 2500 rpm.
i have tried remapping fuel and cant seem to get it any better so i will see if the this helps.
 
to answer jakestolar's question i would have to say the one wire to the rear bolt is all that is needed..since the coil pack bolts are basically the same point.
i did this to my xb12Ss and i did notice a little better off the bottom.
unfortunately i still have the backfire when blipping the throttle off of idle sometimes and it still is a cuts out a bit around 2500 rpm when cruising.
mine is probably just a bit lean now that it is colder outside.
i will get my ecm spy out yet again and play with it.
 
and i will second freaks opinion..it is not hard..once you remove the airbox you can plainly see the chrome rear bolt on the coil and it is really easy to run the ground..just make sure to use braided wire.
i did mine in about thirty minutes,,no biggie.;)
 
I give up !!!!!! Not everything needs a multi colored pop up book to figure out how its done. If you cant follow the directions above or even trust yourself enough to try then I dont think you even need to be working on your bike.
 
For those of you working on this, any falt codes prior to working on this. Mine was running great, but I would get a historic fault code for the rear coil (never current).

Last service I cleared that code, new plugs and all that stuff. Now it's caughing a little off idle,so I hooked up the computer and again the historic 25 Coil #2 Open Circuit/Short Circuit to Battery.

Is this possibly the same problem?
 
Just ran this extra ground today. It fixed my cold start idle problem. It would stall unless you keep on the throttle for atleast 5 mins. Now starts up and idles at a good 1050 RPM. It fixed what the harley dealership couldn't and they had the bike for 2 weeks. . . never again.
 
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