To those with an incurable sputter in the mid-range.

[Sammyzuko]

This thread deserves a bump. I've been having ground related issues and plan on giving this a try.

 

[snrusnak]

Not sure that this is really the answer to all problems but definitely worth noting and trying... [up]

 

[WayneBrettzky]

Anyone know the length of wire needed to do this?

 

[mxracer190]

Sweet!. I'm doing this ASAP. I have a horrible stutter around 4k RPM's, and this seems like it will work.

 

[Jonny5zaliv]

I normally wait for mine to warm up some before getting on it (will have sputter when cold), but better flow of E sounds like a good preemptive fix for possible future problems. Will add to "To Do" list. Good add [up]

 

[Tbone]

Awesome Idea. In my opinion it is a great thing to do to increase the reliability of the bike, especially as the wiring harness wears out.
Does the ECM have a ground also? After reading this thread I realized when doing the ECM relocate that It is moved from a frame mount to the shock reservoir, not sure if the ECM has a ground on the bolt mounting on it's shell? Would it warrant also putting a ground wire on the ECM mounting bolt after a relocate? If so I will ground both the
ECM and coils at the same time.

 

[brock]

im goin to give it a go. it happend to me so i reset the tps and it seemed to work, but now and then it seems to appear. then clear up. i got a new set of plugs the (factory ones) and ill add this ground and see what happens.
thanks.

 

[djs2k2]

Good solutions.

 

[Tork]

If so I will ground both the ECM and coils at the same time.

It should be clarified- Neither the coils nor the ECM get their ground from their mounting, they get them via their wired connectors. All you're doing by running another ground wire to the coil mounting post is helping to make the ground more consistent throughout the chassis (the coil bracket bolt just happens to be convenient). In some cases, this might help overcome poor grounding between chassis junctions where paint, dirt, corrosion, loose connections etc. have affected ground connectivity between sections of the bike. If your bike has problems stemming from poor grounding this might help. On other bikes, it won't make any difference at all. It can't hurt, but if you don't have existing ground issues, this won't make the coils or any other component function any better.

A couple of years ago I installed a power connector on the upper fairing support on my 12R to power my tank bag and assorted gadgetry, and noticed that my connected electronics intermittently worked or didn't work at all. After inspecting all my wiring connections, I did some additional voltage and resistance checks and found that the chassis grounding between the back and front of the bike was very poor. I remedied it by running a separate ground wire directly from the battery to a mounting bolt on the lower triple tree. If you're handy with a soldering iron, I always recommend soldering your crimped connectors to avoid the wire separating from the connector due to vibration or tension. A loose wire wiggling around with a bared end is never a good thing.

 

[Internet Annoyance]

This is so simple yet should be pointed out again and again. These Buells seem to have a LOT of computer, EFI and other issues that Sportsters just do not ever experience. Guess why? besides being flogged harder they are more dependent on computers and electrical connections.

I work mostly on vintage British bikes, and as anyone knows, those are well known for electrical issues. primarlily Lucas Electrics. Why do the British drink warm beer? Because Lucas also makes refrigerators! What are the 3 positions of a Lucas Lighting switch? Off Dim and Flicker! You know you are a British bike owner when you are pulled over by the police for Dim lighting and express your surprise to the officer that the lights were working at all,.

So grounding is a big issue on the british bikes, I build my own custom harnesses for my bikes and run a central frame ground right near the battery and then run component grounds as well that are duals, one ground wire grounds next to the mounted component (Reg/rect, ECM for the ignition conversions, Fuse panel, lighting, horn etc etc) as well as that ground wire i run a second off the same terminal BACK to the Central ground point. this ensures i have good grounding no matter what. From time to time i do go back and do a electrical tune up, clean terminals and connections.

For Buells I also really like the Idea of the voltage gauge fitted, I bought a half dozen of the LED units noted on here on separate thread, Mounted in a empty spot on the control cluster/gauge face they look stock. smart move. cheap mod.

 

[Internet Annoyance]

Maybe this will help??

 

[Internet Annoyance]

on British bikes and cars,, Lucas Electrics, aka "The Prince of Darkness" where "A Gentleman does not motor about after dark" which could easily be adapted to Buells with Electrical issues.

 

[J20tD]

[up]

 

[WayneBrettzky]

I don't know what the coil is (08 xb9sx), so just to confirm, I'm removing the little Allen wrench bolt, 1/8th in wrench... Correct? It's on the back of a little black box looking dealie

 

[WayneBrettzky]

Bueller? Bueller??... looking to put my airbox back together tonight.

 

[Sammyzuko]

I have the lower airbox removed and I don't see the coil everyone seems to be referring to. I see what appears to be an engine mount with a braided wire that is accessible, but that's it. I don't think that is something I should remove. Any help here for a noob?

 

[WayneBrettzky]

It's more towards the handle bars on the left. It will have 2 smaller Allen wrench screws on it, 1 used a 1/8 in wrench to remove the one in the rear. Didn't remove the lower part of the airbox, just pushed it out if the way and I was able to remove it pretty easiky

 

[Sammyzuko]

Well,I used process of elimination and connected it to what I believe is the coil. Here goes nothin'....

 

[Sammyzuko]

^ thanks Wayne! That's what I ended up doing too. Tip of my Allen wrench broke off in the bolt as I was tightening it back up...it's always something lol. Hopefully my bike rides better after this.

 

[WayneBrettzky]

Mine seems to be quite a bit smoother through the rev band, a little more pep. I ran pretty lax for the first 10 miles, just to let it adjust, not sure if that's needed for a simple extra ground mod, but I'm not a mechanical guy and skiddish about any mod done.