Ulysses Engine Noise

[mattuly1]

I dont think a little metal in the break in oil would make me nervous, your right that you may have some washed outta other spots. I would check the dipstick maybe halfway to the next svc for more, a big increase is bad but if it stays clean your right. nice wheel bearings, and good tire work!

 

[rdkingryder]

You may be right, hopefeully the next oil change will be cleaner. I'm conciously looking and listening for weird things and my imagination may be getting the best of me. Popping out of 4th and 5th is getting annoying, but the thought of tearing down the engine again has me bummed. Today it did a weird thing on the way to work, it starting running on one cylinder. It was fine on the way home, although it still "feels" hotter than I remember. I've been bumping up the timing a little at a time as well. Maybe the iridium plugs I got were the wrong heat range and I'll put in the stock plugs over the weekend and see if that makes a difference.

 

[mattuly1]

popping out of gear? you had the shifter off, did you change the adjustment? and good idea to put the stock plugs back in it. see if it gets any cooler. let us know how it goes next week, keep at it!

 

[rdkingryder]

Yes, I rechecked the shifter, looked correct. It's possible I may have swung the detent to the incorrect side. Hoping not, since the entire engine has to be disassembled again to check.

 

[mattuly1]

we will hope and pray that little possiblity never occurs, I had a good long ride today, left shrewsbury and went south to conn and then ri and then home, was hot on my right inseam, but usually is, especially when the fan turns on...I want a scoop for that side.

 

[rdkingryder]

Matt, someone on Badweb modded his original r/s and used spacers and longer bolts to make it stick out farther. The heat blanket on mine doesn't seem to make a difference, just hoping it does. I pulled the plugs the other day and the fuel mix looks about right, light tan, just a hint of white on the rear plug, slightly lean. I checked and double checked that the injectors were plugged in correctly as the wiring for them is specific.

 

[mattuly1]

I have read about that mod to the scoop. peaked my interest. I will revisit the article by friday! Glad to hear about the plugs. I noticed the wiring connectors for the inj's were specific when I did my rear rocker box seals. was surprised to see ford motor company on the connectors for the injectors but at least it didnt say toyota...

 

[rdkingryder]

Well, I took off the heat shield for the exhaust, thinking this is keeping in more heat. I removed the later model air deflectors to allow more air flow and the motor still runs hot. Maybe it's my imagination, but feel the engine disabling feature seems to be happening on a run on the freeway. Shakes quite a bit more at idle after a hot run. I've played with the timing and it's a crap shoot as the 08 crank does not have the timing mark to do a static time to get it precise, so it's Kentucky timing for now. Will keep experimenting.

 

[rdkingryder]

Discovered another difference in the '07 and '08 cranks. There isn't a timing mark on the '08 to do a static time.

Here's an '08 crank photo I borrowed.

Here's my old '07 crank.

So unless you make a matching mark in advance, static timing cannot be done. So I have to Kentucky time it, keep moving it until it pings and then back it off.

 

[mattuly1]

you have got to be close, it runs up to freeway speed, idles, gotta be in the ballpark. no codes? I think your closer than you think. and what is the white dot on the pic of the 08 crank? it looks like its in a totally different place but maybe the 08 times against a different mark that may be there on the 08 casting. you seem genuinely worried about the heat, maybe its time to take its temp. get both cylinders measured full operating temp and tell me, I'll measure mine and get back to you. harbor freight.com for a cheap laser pointy thermometer.

 

[rdkingryder]

The ridges on the '08 crank triggers a crank sensor and it sets the timing is what I was told. The '07 goes by static timing. Yes, the heat does concern me as it seems higher than it used to be. Just don't want to melt a piston or seize and engine. Will get a thermometer sometime this week.

 

[mattuly1]

If thats the case then kentucky timing may be your best tool. how the engine cranks over when at operating temp may be another. and if its too far advanced it may run too hot. or crank over funny. you probably already know that. oh, do you have ecmspy? its a free download, you need to buy a cable off ebay or american sport bike.com .to interface with the bikes diag connector. you can see lots of sensors and maybe the heat sensor in the rear head. I'm not sure of that but if you do a little homework at ecmspy.com I think you can find out. and no check engine lite? you gotta be close if your not setting any codes. good luck!

 

[rdkingryder]

Ok, finally got a laser thermometer. On sale from HF for $26, normally $59. A quick reading, iirc, ambient temps about 80deg F, rear cylinder 313F, front 304F, rear header 500F, front header at first big curl, 313F, frame temp above headers, I forget whether it was 124F or 142F. This was with the engine running after my commute of 22 miles on interstate.