voltage gauge install pics

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Well, I couldn't resist a little ride to test out the voltage readings. In spite of it being -5C (25F) with freezing drizzle, I got up to 100kmh (60mph) and found that even with the meter connected to the lightbulb circuits in the gauge cluster, I was getting a reading of 14.4V @ 4000rpm (4th gear).
This is good enough for me; I am not particularly interested in knowing exact voltage output to 1/10 of a volt. I am more interested in generally knowing that the charging system is functioning correctly or not.
 
Yes! Another thank you! I'm going to order one tonight!
I'm not going to worry too much about where to hook it up, I think you guys are thinking amperage (where it will be important to hook it up at the stator output).
Voltage will* be equal at every point in the supply system regardless of whether it goes through the fuse box or not. In fact, if the worry is how long you can ride it wouldn't you want it hooked to the coil (+), or fuel pump (+)? Whatever draws the most is what will cause the bike to stop running.

*I'm considering how it's designed, not flawed, and not trying to get in a discussion of electrical theory. Just what will keep the bike running in the real world.
 
I know this is an old thread but I just did this today. My VR went out last year and the stator shortly after. Since then I have been paranoid about my charging system. After replacing the VR I had done a fat_bstrd LED voltage indicator, but it was finicky and I always wanted to know what the voltage actually was, not just a range. So today I took that out (found the ground had come loose hence the finicky-ness) and replaced it with this.

I used WaterWeld putty to hold the gauge in place since it is a putty but once it dries you can trim it. It worked great, but I could see white around the edges of the rectangle hole. I got some black acrylic paint and used a paper clip to paint the white I could see in the cracks. Now it looks factory.

As a side note I was concerned about wiring it into the backlighting, since my lighting has not worked properly since day one. Most of the time only the center light will illuminate, but sometimes that goes out as well. The right and left lights hardly ever work, unless I press on the cluster, then they come on. That got me thinking and checking out the PCB while it was apart.

I didn't find any breaks but the solder joints on the PCB at the connector looked like they didn't flow all the way through. There is a common problem on my RX7 where the clock resets or turns on/off when you go over bumps that is due to cold solder joints so I figured maybe there is a similar issue here. I was working on the bike at my parents' house and didn't have a solder sucker handy so I just remelted the joints and added some solder to each one, making sure it flowed completely through. When I put my cluster back on the bike I now have all my backlighting, so either my fix worked or they coincidentally started working. Either way I am happy. The voltage gauge works great as well, I am showing 12.6V sitting with no loads on, and 13.9V at idle.
 
I too ordered these gauges and this is the simplest and most elegant fix out there. BRILLIANT!!!!!!!
plus it looks factory. The LED instruments were so cheap i ordered 5 of them, as i work on a lot of bikes.

My vote is run the power for the this gauge off of the power source to your ECU, theres a main power wire going in, and check your factory wiring diagram to find which one on your application.

if the ECU is getting faulty voltages or erratic power spikes, thats the most important info you can have, i dont know about you guys,,,,,, but i can ride home without lights, but its a long push with out ignition.

Keep in mind in electricity you have 3 measurements. Voltage, amperage and resistance. IMHO the voltage for these sensitive electronic components is the most important as a visual aid, Amperage and resistance (Ohms) is what you check in diagnostics with a multi meter.

thanks for posting these pixs and instructions, this is a must have for any of these bikes.
 
I've had mine installed for about 3 weeks now .... (did it on my last rotation in at home with my insane list of **** I completed overnight) ..... :) excellent investment in time and $3 ... [up][up]
 
I bought mine off the ebay seller, probably the same one, but my displays were in red, not blue. maybe blue matches yer old ladys eyes tho..........2 or 3 dollars per unit and about $3.50 or so shipping from Hong Kong. It was a Buy it now and i bought 5 of them and paid the one price for shipping (might as well, lots of applications it can be used for)[up][up][up][up][up][up][up][up][up][up][up]:p[up][up][up][up][up][up][up]
 
HAHAHAHA .... somebody gave a really enthusiastic thumbs up there ... They sold the one I listed up in multiple colors as well ... green, red, and blue that I can remember ...
 
i got one but no idea how to install it
Click to expand...

on top of left handlebar control using the flat horizontal pad...or here also works if you don't want to go the gauge cluster route.
8903_20120915074002_L.jpg
 
i got one but no idea how to install it
Click to expand...
[confused]
The OP & I both posted a bunch of step-by-step pics showing how to install. Anything specific you need clarification on?
 
Here is a pic, I couldn't find my camera when I posted earlier. My solder fix didn't work, I'm back to just my center backlight. Guess that just moves up my idea of replacing it with a Koso unit. The voltage gauge is working great though; if the sunlight is just right it is hard to see, but most of the time I can see it no problem, and at night it isn't too bright.

voltagegauge1tdby.jpg
 
Great post!

I too did the fat_bstrd mod from badweb (installed a single LED in the cluster), but used the clearwater voltage sensor.

http://clearwaterlights.com/infopg_cvs.html

It looks like it was meant to be on the bike. I didn't want to damage any of the cluster wiring with vampire connectors, so connected it directly to the battery. It shuts off after 5 minutes of inactivity. That means I get a read on the battery / charging quality before and during a ride as well as after the bike has been turned off
 

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