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Fixed the low oil thing

TPEHAK said:
Low oil is better than No oil.
Click to expand...

Fixed the low oil thing , There is a red button on my right handle bar press it and then there is oil pressure ! :D

low oil004.jpg
 
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thanks for the update on the low oil thing, it happens on all my bikes and I was messing around. Didn't get chance to post again about it before others explained why its on. I will set my TC to off this weekend and see how it rides, my biggest fear is with the stiff throttle rotation that I will over do it during a turn or curve and slide out. I've never wheeled a bike, so I have no idea on that sensation and how to control it if it happens. I understand that if it happens to let off the throttle and it will drop back down, but damn.

I so love this bike and wish I had more time to ride and get totally comfortable with it, but then I would be neglecting the others in the garage and shed.

Thanks for all the updates and replies to my stupid comments.
 
If you are not experienced bike rider with all due respect, keep your TC 6 to 10 ! Until you comfortable with the power of this beast, I have years of dirt bike riding experience on my CR500 and many other bikes, say no more been in all crazy positions. I cant keep my front wheel on the ground, the way its tuned and geared and I love it. :love_heart:


Here is EBRs suggested TC settings in your owners manual.


tc.jpg
 
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Its sounds like a total hooligan thing to do (wheelies) but to be honest, controlling a wheelie brought me to another level of dirt bike riding and the same for the street. Once you get over the 'I'M GONNA DIIIIEEEEE!!!' You'll be fine and a much better rider.

ATGATT. Warm bike, warm tires. Find a wide, straight, LONG place with no cross traffic.
Take off, foot covering the rear brake, both hands on the grips, do NOT cover the front brake lever.
2nd gear, RPM at 1/2 of redline, relax your body and firm grip with your knees and your hands. Get used to snapping the throttle wide open. On an 1190 thats all you need, front wheel comes up smooth and you can set it back down by just slowly releasing the throttle.
Other bikes can use a little help to get the wheel up.:) Still in 2nd, 1/2 of redline, mash the throttle and right away (using only 2 fingers) goose the clutch lever. It doesn't take much, you won't even really pull on it, but need to snap it back still at WOT.
Keep practicing! The important point is to remember to use the rear brake if SHTF and never touch the front. The brake doesn't do much in the air but will bummer your day once you land if your hard on the lever.
 
Cooter, thanks for the information. I have been riding bikes almost 30 years now, only had a couple on dirt bikes as my son rode when he was little. I am definitely going to try your steps this weekend and see what I can get. I have a feeling its going to take a bit to get over the "I'm going to DIIIEEEE!!" phase. I really don't want to be like those people (Idiots in my book) riding a wheelie at 70 down the freeway or even the back streets. I have taken 2nd gear almost to redline, about 10K, passing some cagers on an onramp. 90 gets there really quick and I love it!! my Ultra is a slow pig in comparison.

Thanks again.
 
now thats not something I'm even going to touch, I honestly think there is no "normal" and there is a little something wrong with everyone.
 
I looked into using the 1125 rear red spring to replace the yellow 550lb/in in my 1190 thats way too stiff. So far the stock 1125 spring is 500lb/in (which at 10% reduction, should be noticable) but still can find a free height measurement to know if I can swap them...

Edit: Stock 1125 is 6.75" free height, now to check the 1190.
 
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Cooter said:
I looked into using the 1125 rear red spring to replace the yellow 550lb/in in my 1190 thats way too stiff. So far the stock 1125 spring is 500lb/in (which at 10% reduction, should be noticable) but still can find a free height measurement to know if I can swap them...

Edit: Stock 1125 is 6.75" free height, now to check the 1190.
Click to expand...

I called Race tech, and asked them , They have no specs on the EBR spring I was told. :sorrow:
 
I've been to NJ....:upset: Haha....

That's ok, Race Tech doesn't know, but we already do:) Yellow=550lbs/in, red=475lbs/in. If the free height is the same as the 1125 coils we're in business.

I have a press with a ton gauge on it, I'm hoping it's accurate enough at that low scale to test these coils myself. I used it to do coils for the race truck and it worked really well:up:
 
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Allegedly:

Me either. We use a 'don't ask, don't tell' policy around here. I would much rather get 'busted' for carrying (I have a CC permit with reciprocity in 33 states, but not in Cali) , than need it and not have it.
 
Cooter said:
Allegedly:

Me either. We use a 'don't ask, don't tell' policy around here. I would much rather get 'busted' for carrying (I have a CC permit with reciprocity in 33 states, but not in Cali) , than need it and not have it.
Click to expand...

Allegedly: Me & Sig p227 :up:
 
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That not much info for all caps and a bunch of exclamation points;)

I'm curious about LAP (but not so much as to research). They don't really seem to have this process down? Unprepared for listing the items, random crates of stuff, pricing out of line, etc.
 
I have never tried (Seal Mate) before, I have always put new seals in my forks once they start leaking, So I thought what the heck only $4. Watched a few videos learned the procedure. Took the SX out for a test 50 miles, you can't ride a Dean tuned SX without the front end coming up a few times :black_eyed: witch is a good seal test. A thumbs :up:up for Seal Mate it works.

sealmate1.jpg
 
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I keep a roll of 35mm film around for the same reason. Never really had an issue on street bikes, but it helped the ol' CR250 seals last more than a season:up:

Got the oil changed on both bikes, I didn't know if there was a difference in the HF564 or the, K&N 401514 (which has the #KN-564:confused: on the box?) so I got both for a side by side compare. They are so identical it wasn't even worth taking a pic. Same "Made in China" stamp, same filter material, same end caps and gasket...There is nothing internal (like a bypass valve) so cutting them apart would have been worthless as well. Just get the one with the best price.

I'll post pics of the 43 tooth sprocket tomorrow. Since it's dimensionally identical front and back I put it on backwards to hide the mid-90's fluting on it. Reminds me of how many Boyd Tri-fan wheels I put on lowered Chevy trucks back then:down:
DSC_1152.jpg


Super easy swap! With 1400 miles, everything came apart easily and back together easily as well. It's much thicker and heavier that the stock one, I have no idea if it's the same metal or coatings. 100ft/lbs for the rear axle, and it moved up 2.5 marks on the swingarm (more than 1/4"... about .300") to get the 30mm (little less than 1.25") of free play back in the stock chain. There are threads about wearing out sprockets prematurely if it's too tight, and apparently one sign is the chain idler stops making noise. I'm happy to report the idler makes noise on decal like they do stock :) and Holy shmoley!! what a difference!

The SeX now leaves a stop light like a normal bike without slipping the clutch past the opposite crosswalk :down: and I feel a 44 tooth would still not be too drastic. I didn't get any false gear indicators (remember I have a borrowed Race ECM for resonator delete) at 60mph in 6th you're still only at 3800RPM(!!) I'll see what speed she likes to sit at on the highway soon and see if that changed from the comfy 80mph it was before.

The biggest change by far is how it accelerates mid throttle. I normally ride this bike 4500-6500 where it goes from slightly lugging to a little buzzy but still has plenty of power to avoid the inevitable cager trying to kill you with obliviousness...always in a Prius. :mad-new:ALWAYS:mad-new::mad-new: I am thoroughly convinced that in his ultimate wisdom Erik did not design this bike with the tiny stock 41 tooth sprocket but when the first lawyer rode it, they mandated the change so 101ft/lbs didn't reach out and kill every single person who threw a leg over this rocket.

Seriously:angel:.

It feels like it got 20+ more hp to the rear wheel on a bike with already 900hp/ton. The front end will power wheelie so effortlessly I'm getting a reputation that I don't deserve (sort of:eek::rolleyes:) I have to be careful pulling out to pass because if I throttle it normally I'll run into the car in front of me before I change lanes!! Oddly similar problem to a Testla P90D.

I noticed when I re-set the service reminder, it had already been counting down to the next service. So FYI if you do your service late like lazy ol' Cooter did the next one will just be at the same milage it was gonna be anyway.
Still haven't washed it;)
 
A observant and generous member gave me the heads up on a cheap 1125 red rear spring to buy:up: It's on the way.
I'll check it for free height and spring rate against the yellow 2014 EBR and hopefully get a softer rear;) TWSS....
 

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