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Buellxb Forum

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That not much info for all caps and a bunch of exclamation points;)

I'm curious about LAP (but not so much as to research). They don't really seem to have this process down? Unprepared for listing the items, random crates of stuff, pricing out of line, etc.
 
I have never tried (Seal Mate) before, I have always put new seals in my forks once they start leaking, So I thought what the heck only $4. Watched a few videos learned the procedure. Took the SX out for a test 50 miles, you can't ride a Dean tuned SX without the front end coming up a few times :black_eyed: witch is a good seal test. A thumbs :up:up for Seal Mate it works.

sealmate1.jpg
 
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I keep a roll of 35mm film around for the same reason. Never really had an issue on street bikes, but it helped the ol' CR250 seals last more than a season:up:

Got the oil changed on both bikes, I didn't know if there was a difference in the HF564 or the, K&N 401514 (which has the #KN-564:confused: on the box?) so I got both for a side by side compare. They are so identical it wasn't even worth taking a pic. Same "Made in China" stamp, same filter material, same end caps and gasket...There is nothing internal (like a bypass valve) so cutting them apart would have been worthless as well. Just get the one with the best price.

I'll post pics of the 43 tooth sprocket tomorrow. Since it's dimensionally identical front and back I put it on backwards to hide the mid-90's fluting on it. Reminds me of how many Boyd Tri-fan wheels I put on lowered Chevy trucks back then:down:
DSC_1152.jpg


Super easy swap! With 1400 miles, everything came apart easily and back together easily as well. It's much thicker and heavier that the stock one, I have no idea if it's the same metal or coatings. 100ft/lbs for the rear axle, and it moved up 2.5 marks on the swingarm (more than 1/4"... about .300") to get the 30mm (little less than 1.25") of free play back in the stock chain. There are threads about wearing out sprockets prematurely if it's too tight, and apparently one sign is the chain idler stops making noise. I'm happy to report the idler makes noise on decal like they do stock :) and Holy shmoley!! what a difference!

The SeX now leaves a stop light like a normal bike without slipping the clutch past the opposite crosswalk :down: and I feel a 44 tooth would still not be too drastic. I didn't get any false gear indicators (remember I have a borrowed Race ECM for resonator delete) at 60mph in 6th you're still only at 3800RPM(!!) I'll see what speed she likes to sit at on the highway soon and see if that changed from the comfy 80mph it was before.

The biggest change by far is how it accelerates mid throttle. I normally ride this bike 4500-6500 where it goes from slightly lugging to a little buzzy but still has plenty of power to avoid the inevitable cager trying to kill you with obliviousness...always in a Prius. :mad-new:ALWAYS:mad-new::mad-new: I am thoroughly convinced that in his ultimate wisdom Erik did not design this bike with the tiny stock 41 tooth sprocket but when the first lawyer rode it, they mandated the change so 101ft/lbs didn't reach out and kill every single person who threw a leg over this rocket.

Seriously:angel:.

It feels like it got 20+ more hp to the rear wheel on a bike with already 900hp/ton. The front end will power wheelie so effortlessly I'm getting a reputation that I don't deserve (sort of:eek::rolleyes:) I have to be careful pulling out to pass because if I throttle it normally I'll run into the car in front of me before I change lanes!! Oddly similar problem to a Testla P90D.

I noticed when I re-set the service reminder, it had already been counting down to the next service. So FYI if you do your service late like lazy ol' Cooter did the next one will just be at the same milage it was gonna be anyway.
Still haven't washed it;)
 
A observant and generous member gave me the heads up on a cheap 1125 red rear spring to buy:up: It's on the way.
I'll check it for free height and spring rate against the yellow 2014 EBR and hopefully get a softer rear;) TWSS....
 
Silver: It's a 4-104 linear push sensor. I will tap into the stock lever and secure to the case just like the 1125's. Making a little L-bracket and for the cost of just the sensor I should be good to go. I'm still unsure whether you can use the GP kit (like you got:)) with the front nub thing flipped up and if the rod will clear or not. I think Dean's is like that?

HMP: Thanks man;) It was tongue in cheek for buying the EBR and having it kill me. You guys can't get rid of me that easy! :eagerness:
 
Silver: It's a 4-104 linear push sensor. I will tap into the stock lever and secure to the case just like the 1125's. Making a little L-bracket and for the cost of just the sensor I should be good to go. I'm still unsure whether you can use the GP kit (like you got:)) with the front nub thing flipped up and if the rod will clear or not. I think Dean's is like that?

HMP: Thanks man;) It was tongue in cheek for buying the EBR and having it kill me. You guys can't get rid of me that easy! :eagerness:

Seller told me its Standard, I bet/Hope I get mine before you. LOL :black_eyed::cool:

v2r285.jpg v2r285.jpg
 
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That sure is pretty!! :angel:I never heard of EBR (or anyone) selling a standard shift quicksifter?
If you install that shifter and the rod is parallel to it, the bike will shift GP and will need a 'pull' sensor.

The $$ question is, if you install the part onto the transmission shaft upside down for standard shifting pattern, will the rod connecting the two clear everything ok? If so... you'll need a 'push' sensor.

What style sensor is the one you bought?
 
That sure is pretty!! :angel:I never heard of EBR (or anyone) selling a standard shift quicksifter?
If you install that shifter and the rod is parallel to it, the bike will shift GP and will need a 'pull' sensor.

The $$ question is, if you install the part onto the transmission shaft upside down for standard shifting pattern, will the rod connecting the two clear everything ok? If so... you'll need a 'push' sensor.

What style sensor is the one you bought?

http://ebutik.nccr.se/ebr-erik-buell-racing-1/ebr-oem-original-parts/ebr-engine/

On the paper work it says (Standard and GP kit ), But the first question I asked the seller was is it GP or standard, he said standard , either way I was getting it . Back in the day I had a ZR1 Kwa 900 shifted on the left side of the bike and at the same time I was racing on my Bultaco 250 pursang shifted on the right side, never missed a gear.:cool:So going to GP would still doable.
 
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Cooter - I know the bike is still relatively 'new' to you, but how does it seem to be maintenance-wise? I'm fairly committed to owning/maintaining Buells for (among other things) keeping great examples of Erik's engineering on the road for the long haul, regardless of whether or not some version of Buell/EBR is in business.

That said, after this weeks hellish experience working on the Yamaha for a friend, I want to know what I'm signing up for if I decide to do the EBR thing as well at some point.
 
Been flawless so far :up: Just a service reminder at 600 miles. Oil change is easy (2 drain plugs) and clean, Chain slack (30mm) hadn't moved, and I'm sure the factory wanted a valve lash check (engine rotate) for the first year bikes especially. I'll get to that:upset: I believe it's shim under bucket and they're super rock solid. I've yet to have to adjust any motor under 30k miles, but I will check it though as a sign of future issues.

I like this bike a LOT. In 20 years 2037(!!!) if I need a part I can't find, I'll have my robot buddy make me one with Mr. Fusion.:cool:
 
vicenzajay,

I have 14,000mi on my RX. The only major was having the valves re-shimmed. That was after 9000 mi-supposed to be done at 6000. That was a $500 job including an oil/filter change. It definitely needed to be done as all the valves were all out of spec. Some wag on here referred to it is a "horsepower tax"--true enough. Complex job.

Aside from that -- well I raised the bars and as on all my chain drive bikes added a Loobman oiler. On my third set of tires, this time Metzeler road tecs. They were put on at 12,000 mi and are wearing very well. I had the oil changed at 12,000 also and just checked it this morning after a "brisk" 1200 mile burn--same levels as when put in but a little blacker.

So knock wood and so far so good etc.

Opto
 
All good info....the valve re-shim is the only thing I wouldn't be familiar with in this case. Hopefully that's a thing just about any indy tech can do?
 
Opto, you have 14K on an RX? You win the hard-taint award:up:

V: $500 for a valve adjust and oil change every 6000 miles is really reasonable (Ever own a DUCATI??). Ya any decent shop should be able to do it. Nothing special about the EBR that they can't youtube:stupid: I'd consider having them do it, if I trusted anyone to touch my stuff...
 
Went for a 8 hr ride in the Kings Canyon National forest , Hooked up with a a couple of great riders. Traded off bikes got to ride a black 2015 EBR 1190 and a Super Duc 1290. great time.

park ride01.jpg park ride04.jpg
 
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What's the SX's seat height? I'm a fairly short guy....

|2015 EBR 1190SX
ENGINE|72-degree V-twin, four-stroke
BORE & STROKE|105.9mm x 67.5 mm (4.17 in. x 2.66 in.)
DISPLACEMENT|1190cc (72.6 cu. in.)
COMPRESSION RATIO|13.4: 1
FUEL DELIVERY|EFI w/2 port and 2 showerhead injectors
CLAIMED PEAK TORQUE|101.6 lb.-ft. @ 8200 rpm
CLAIMED PEAK HORSEPOWER|185 hp @ 10,600 rpm
OVERALL LENGTH|80.3 in.
OVERALL WIDTH|31.9 in.
OVERALL HEIGHT|42.8 in.
WHEELBASE|55.5 in.
SEAT HEIGHT|32.5 in.
GROUND CLEARANCE|4.7 in.
FRONT SUSPENSION|Showa, inverted big piston
REAR SUSPENSION|Showa, single shock
TRAIL|3.8 in.
RAKE|22.4°
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER|386mm perimeter disc, eight-piston inside-out
REAR BRAKE|220mm disc
LEAN ANGLE|48°
FRONT WHEEL|17 x 3.5 aluminum
REAR WHEEL|17 x 6.0 aluminum
FRONT TIRE|Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa, 120/70ZR-17
REAR TIRE|Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa 190/55 ZR-17
FUEL CAPACITY|4.5 gal.
CLAIMED WET WEIGHT (NO FUEL)|414 lb.
LOAD CAPACITY|382 lb.
AVAILABLE COLORS|Frost Bite White, Galactic Black, Racing Red
 
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