1190CR
- Thread starter bwylie_99
- Start date
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Don't do anything else until Monday. Call EBR and get clarification on what the CR should be. I'm betting it's nowhere close to 17:1.
I was asking about the CR because they tweaked it between the 1125-1190RS-1190RX/SX. They only changed it by less than 0.9. 14:1 is the cut off for pump gas on a naturally aspirated engine with out getting into detonation. Our bikes are on the hairy edge then backed off just a hair. That's one of the reasons they run hotter than other bikes. I was just wondering about how they addressed the squish area of the combustion chamber for the quench effect with the overbore.
Either they didn't torque cylinders/heads correctly or they didn't space the ring gaps correctly or something. Gaskets/improper torqueing are a good bet. Even if they didn't get the ring gaps correctly spaced, the excess pressure in the crankcase shouldn't put water in the oil, but oil in the water. To blow a gasket from excessive crankcase pressure would exceed the water pressure and relieve the pressure into the cooling system, not the other way around.
I wouldn't even crack the engine again until the oil has been changed and the gaskets replaced. Take off the oil filler cap when you try to restart again to vent any possible crankcase buildup of pressure just in case the gasket wasn't the root cause. I would want a compression check (bleed down) after the repair just to make sure before I tried to restart. Just for ***** and giggles I would also want to pressure check the cooling system. It wasn't designed for pressures exceeding 20-25 PSI.
Sorry you are having gremlins. I plan on doing this same mod on my spare engine.
Either they didn't torque cylinders/heads correctly or they didn't space the ring gaps correctly or something. Gaskets/improper torqueing are a good bet. Even if they didn't get the ring gaps correctly spaced, the excess pressure in the crankcase shouldn't put water in the oil, but oil in the water. To blow a gasket from excessive crankcase pressure would exceed the water pressure and relieve the pressure into the cooling system, not the other way around.
I wouldn't even crack the engine again until the oil has been changed and the gaskets replaced. Take off the oil filler cap when you try to restart again to vent any possible crankcase buildup of pressure just in case the gasket wasn't the root cause. I would want a compression check (bleed down) after the repair just to make sure before I tried to restart. Just for ***** and giggles I would also want to pressure check the cooling system. It wasn't designed for pressures exceeding 20-25 PSI.
Sorry you are having gremlins. I plan on doing this same mod on my spare engine.
I posted up on the other buell site and a gentleman says the only other place the oil and coolent could mix would be the main engine gasket that separates the cases up near the middle of the 2 cylinders. The exact same place I just had the cracked motor mount on the left side between the two cylinders welded back together which is why I dropped the motor out in the first place. ugh #! $@$#//&/'! $ so.......
Ouch
that sucks, sorry for the bad news. Really looking forward on you posting the feel of the 1190 with the EBR map. Keep us informed, please.
Not a cracked case, the top of the left motor mount between the cylinders had a crack which is why I had it out of the bike to have welded
After talking to a welder and mechanic, it seemed like a perfect time to install bbk in case any heat got to the cylinders. Unfortunately I'm pretty f'n sure heat got to something as this is what just came outa the engine
so now it's back to the drawing board. will 08's lower end be compatible? Do I have to have an 09 block? Is it even worth it to rebuild this engine with a welded cracked mount or switch top ends with another motor? Will the ecm be compatible?
After talking to a welder and mechanic, it seemed like a perfect time to install bbk in case any heat got to the cylinders. Unfortunately I'm pretty f'n sure heat got to something as this is what just came outa the engine
so now it's back to the drawing board. will 08's lower end be compatible? Do I have to have an 09 block? Is it even worth it to rebuild this engine with a welded cracked mount or switch top ends with another motor? Will the ecm be compatible?
08-09 should share the same block. 2010's had the sight glass built in like on the 1190's do now, that's the only really big difference from what I've seen. I'd swap the top end to another bottom. Ecm is compatible. There was an oiling jet recall on 08's for 5th gear, just make sure that gets done on your donor motor.
Motor back out of bike and new questions. The stator cover was right next to the weld and it seems perfectly fine. The rear cylinder has a major difference in head gasket thickness from front to back
hard to see in the pictures, but upclose it's completely thin at the front and very wide in the rear.
I also still can't figure out why the clutch cover gasket blew out. Brand new gasket torqued to spec. It also looks like it might be leaking from the rear cylinder head gasket, but it could be residual from clutch cover spewing
hard to see in the pictures, but upclose it's completely thin at the front and very wide in the rear.
I also still can't figure out why the clutch cover gasket blew out. Brand new gasket torqued to spec. It also looks like it might be leaking from the rear cylinder head gasket, but it could be residual from clutch cover spewing
You want me to bring an xb9 to the Dragon for you to ride in a couple of weeks?
Maybe! I jus talked to my welder who absolutely doesn't buy the motor mount weld idea as nothing inside the motor would have even reached the normal operating temperature. My rear base gasket is definitely different from front to back and I didn't do anything that could have caused this. So bright and early Tuesday morning I'll be at hardly abelsons asking why their certified buell mechanic f'd up my bike?
On a much happier note, your going to the dragon! Whoooo hoooooo!
On a much happier note, your going to the dragon! Whoooo hoooooo!
Maybe. Still debating on going, I have entirely too much work to get done right now.
Cool. I still owe you guys a steak dinner, so make sure to find me on Friday night if I make it there. This makes 2 places to stay at now.
based on the amount of weld in the picture it wouldnt of caused any sort of major internal problems or warped the block or anything of the sort. I welded a cast valve cover hotter then that weld looks today and it warp the thin valve cover.
100% sure it lies in the hands of the tech who assembled it.
100% sure it lies in the hands of the tech who assembled it.
