brake kills eletronics,engine,everything.

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OK you probably saved me a bunch of time! i am thinking of combining the red/ black and red/ grey then put on one side of switch then just red on the other thus giving power to r/blk - r/gy, i am sorry what is a momentary?
 
just looked up what a momentar switch is, but the only reason i dont think it would be a momentart is because there is at no time like a car ignition where you turn the key to give power to starter, you use the button on the handlebars. or am i missing something
-keith
 
You cant combine them.
One is the constant power for the dash, lights, etc. The other is the momentary the starter gets to turn her over.

A toggle is off (click) on-stays on or off. A momentary is off (hold) on- goes back to off.
 
Just combined all wires and cycled just as if key was on fuel pump brake lights horn turn signal fired up so now I'm going to wire a switch for power to r/bk and r/gy to give power to both once is turned on only problem is I need to know witch wire needs constant power for clock computer ect

So maybe wire on switch would be power + r/gy on one side then r/ bk wire on other side so that witch ever wire needs constant gets it then once it's switch all 4 get power.
 
Wait that's why there is two red power wires.... To keep constant flow right? Back to te drawing board .... 2 red wires one side the r/bk and r/gy other ...
 
After playing with the wires and the dial on the switch the jumper in the dial is only there like other person said to give power to other side of switch once you turn you're key into "park"
 
The reds split off a single line from the fuse before the connector.

But if it cycled over with the single, that was the proper wiring, no need for the 2 switches. You nailed it, constant on only. [up]
 
oohh ok! got it so the two red should always be conected! correct? and the r/dk and r/gy and be on the other end of swithc i have two switched now where the reds are pereate powers for both but if i can combine them to oone switch and have the proper wireing will do.
thank you very much pagano for youre info!
 
i am gald i can ride again! lol it was so frustrating that i thought there was su much more wrong with the bike than i though. hopefully if someone else is having same problem this could help narrow it down for them.
 
Here is the wiring diagram. If you don't care about the park position you can use a single switch. It is called a DPST (double pole single throw) switch. It has four contacts and works like two independent switches that move at the same time.
4834_20120313160512_L-2.jpg


Notice on the diagram that with key off there is no connections. When turned to run.... the R and R/B are connected to each other as one pair, and the R and R/GY are connected as the other pair.
 
On the switch you will have to find the two pairs of switches with an ohmmeter. Then wire them like this:
IMG_20131227_131635_656.jpg


I have a switch like this in my xb. Works fine. A good waterproof dpst switch is about 10 bucks. West Marine boat store carries them.
 
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