Buell XB12Rsc e85

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The only way to do it would be to have two ECMs installed on the bike and only one powered at a time. You could have a switch that powered between the two and have all the same inputs in the two. All you would have to do is shut off the motor and switch between them and fire back up.
 
Ya, that's about the worst method to "convert" a bike to E85. It works the same as a Power Commander, Dobeck TFI, or any other piggyback fuel tuner. The real benefits come from changing the ignition timing too.
 
Like this:

XB-12%2BS%2Bby%2BLazareth%2B11.jpg
 
I did some throttle body tune today...

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WP_20140319_005_zps29f80788.jpg


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I removed butterfly shaft guides and put 8mm x 14mm x 4mm shaft seal on the disc's side and O-ring on the TPS's side. It required a little bit drilling to get that shaft seal deep enough.
 
How much boost are you looking to push, microsquirt may be an option. Ive never run it on a bike but have megasquirt on my 70's GTO
 
Planning to run max. 0.7 bar (10.15 PSI).

I'm currently building a preparation for water/methanol injection if I'm going for a higher boost. Going to put one injector on the plenum, which will inject straight to the throttle body. And second injector to the chargers intake side to cool down charger.

Eatons are getting pretty unefficient when going over 0.7 bar. Sucking lots of power and making lots of heat...:

Power required to drive supercharger
M45power.gif


Delta temperature
M45deltaT.gif



Much better option would be Sprintexn, when going for higher boost (which BTW new Bimota also has: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJ01Xq74Ti4&feature=youtu.be&t=5m pretty sweet sounds when revving HARD!)..:

http://www.sprintex.com.au/superchargers/#tabs-0-1

s100_chart.jpg



I considered microsquirt as an option when starting this project, but will go with Buell's ECM with a 3 bar MAP-sensor and stock timings.
 
Gotcha, those little eatons will take a beating. I have a ford lightning with a eaton M122 that im overdriving the snot out of at around 19.5lbs of boost.
 
Some injector calculations:

3 bar/43.5 PSI:
TARGET CRANK HP 120 - SC - E85 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 530cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 130 - SC - E85 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 574cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 140 - SC - E85 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 618cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 150 - SC - E85 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 662cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 160 - SC - E85 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 707cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 170 - SC - E85 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 751cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 180 - SC - E85 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 795cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 190 - SC - E85 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 839cc/min

3 bar/43.5 PSI:
TARGET CRANK HP 120 - SC - 98 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 408cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 130 - SC - 98 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 442cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 140 - SC - 98 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 476cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 150 - SC - 98 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 510cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 160 - SC - 98 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 544cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 170 - SC - 98 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 578cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 180 - SC - 98 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 611cc/min
TARGET CRANK HP 190 - SC - 98 - MAX DUTY CYCLE 85% = 645cc/min
 
Really...
How much weight do I need to drop that it will be the same as adding 70hp?!

And I think that water injection system will not weight more than a few pounds, so I'l take a **** before I get on the road and it'l take care of that...
 
If Buell's stock power to weight ratio is 0.463 (83whp / 179kg)
With 140whp and 200kgs power to weight ratio would be 0.7
With 150whp and 200kgs power to weight ratio would be 0.75... and so on
It would have to weight over 300kg to get power to weight ratio to the same with 140whp
 
Some advices needed for removing clutch hub(?) nut/primary's back sprocket nut. Is it CW threaded(CCW to open) like front sprocket on -2005 models?

Is there some locking tool needed for this?
 
Leave the clutch assembly together as in don't remove the clutch spring. Put the bike in gear and use an impact on the clutch nut. It has red loctite on it and should be torqued down to 80 ft-lbs, to give you an idea of the effort required to remove it. Yes, it has left hand threads.

Did you get my clutch yet?
 
How much weight does this add? You should be taking parts off, not adding water & heavy SC....

Might be one of the worst comments I have ever seen in a SC thread.
 
Leave the clutch assembly together as in don't remove the clutch spring. Put the bike in gear and use an impact on the clutch nut. It has red loctite on it and should be torqued down to 80 ft-lbs, to give you an idea of the effort required to remove it. Yes, it has left hand threads.

Okay. I tried to remove it with air impact gun by holding secondary front sprocket with hand... didn't work so well. Going to try it with tuned air gun and locking it by gear, have to assemble clutch back though...

I haven't receive your clutch, but I think it's because we just move. I've ordered new pistons, primary chain and some other parts that I cant even remember anymore....

Only need to buy new gaskets, wideband O2 sensor/s, SC oil and some other things that cant remember. I think I have alzheimers, or what was it with remembering problems.... ahhh cant remember...

BTW. our car just broke... May be some minor engine failure. Could be just a lifter/s, or rod/s, or crank bearing/s.... GREEEEAT!!! Any thoughts for a knocking/tapping/rattling sound when engine is WARM? No weird sounds when cold or under load, witch is quite odd...
 
Ordered 2x Innovate MTX-L 3845 widebands, Screaming Eagle Lefty crank bearing and apparently only one Wiseco piston...

Going to take the engine to the HD-workshop on next week. They are going to work with the heads, probably hone the cylinders and assemble engine back together.
 
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