Engine light at high rpm....

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Gonna go through the front end and rewire anything that looks like it needs it...seems like the right thing to do regardless. Then get the blinkers hooked up again and see if anything changes. If not I'll know it's at least behind the headlights.

KC
 
Might be a bad ballast. I had a bad ballast that would totally mess up my voltage, check that out.
 
Try just your high beam ballast, unhook low beam see if it does it. Unhook high beam, try just low beam see if that does it as well.
 
Alright, same problem existed on both low and Hi Beam after I've gone through the wiring in the headlights (nothing has changed in a year). I tried low and high without a ballast hooked up to the opposite, still have the problem, both ballasts drop if both headlights are on. This has to be behind the headlights but I've already swapped the Voltage Regulator which is the typical culprit on these kinds of issues.

Anyone have any ideas??

KC
 
Testing results (to my neighbors delight):
Across Battery
Off 12.5V
Idle 12.2V
When I first went out it spiked during Rev up to about 17V, probably at less than 4500 RPM as I was trying to keep noise to a minimum. After other testing listed below I repeated the rev and I got no spike....

Stator test through the connector going towards VR
One in and One grounded : .2-.4 It starts high and then slowly bottoms out
Point to Point across all three was .5, once again it starts high and slowly bottoms out.

In the manual it states that it should show no continuity, does this mean it should just be bouncing around???

As for the AC output it read 17 at idle and 32 at approx 2000k.

Considering I already swapped out the Voltage Regulator for one with approx 8k Miles on it I can't imagine that it's failing. The battery tests are low but that wouldn't cause the spikes would it?

I'm running out of brain cells here....
 
AC Output Check
1. See Figure 7-31. Test AC output.
a. Locate voltage regulator connector [46] under
sprocket cover. See 7.25 SPROCKET COVER WIRING.
Disconnect from alternator stator wiring.
b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator sockets 1-2.
c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 32-40 volts AC. (approximately 16-20 volts per
1000 RPM).
d. Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 1-3.
2. Compare test results to specifications.
a. If the output is below specifications, charging problem
could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b. If output is good, charging problem might be faulty
regulator/rectifier. Replace as required.
3. Check the output again as described under CURRENT
AND VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST on page 7-28.

From the manual...
 
Battery is DC. Stator is a mini AC generator.

This is an interesting problem, I'll be thinking about it.
 
I don't know what to do, I've checked most all of the grounds and I'm not losing anything else. Only had the check engine light once. The battery spikes at times but not others. It reads a bit low but that may just be the battery showing it's age and I've already swapped out the VR. Stator numbers look good.

Bout to take a list down to Cowboy HD and pick their Buell guys brain...
 
So after a few months of full time school, moving, and waiting on Harley. I managed to tear her apart and see that the stator had friend a couple coils, bought a new one. That one didn't fit due to clearance (winning), complained till HD sent me a free custom one that did clear and I have a working red-heades step child of a motorcycle once again.

Thanks everyone for taking the time to input.
 
Sorry for grave digging, but I'm actually having the EXACT same problem. HID kit, engine light, the whole deal.

This will save me a lot of trouble.

THANKS!
 
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