How to: Anodize your buell

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Have you tried to spray a clear satin poly spray to seal the deal? I am very interested in trying this on some of my parts.
 
Ok, I hate to admit it, but I've tried this and failed. I've followed the directions to the letter and my heel guards and foot pegs won't hold any dye I put on them. The foot pegs have become dark grey and I don't know how to get them back to normal. The heel guards have turned a sickly green color (tried to dye them black using RIT dye). Help?

you should be able to strip them back down with a wire wheel.

perhaps there is still an oxide layer when you attempt to dye the parts, I think after a good wire wheel treatment start over and see what that does for you. maybe spend a little longer in the acid bath while hooked up to power too.

aluminum oxide is tough stuff, its what many grinding wheels use as the abrasive grit so it may take some work getting it loose. also after using a wire wheel on it you will have bits of your wheel all over your aluminum part, when I was taking welding courses we made sure to only use stainless steel brushes on our aluminum parts before welding.
not sure if you can get a stainless wire wheel but its worth a look. if not just do the best you can to clean the part after using the wheel on it.
 
Have you tried to spray a clear satin poly spray to seal the deal? I am very interested in trying this on some of my parts.

shouldn't have to, the anodize should be part of an oxide layer that is a part of the metal. the only thing you could try and seal it from would be UV.

an anodized finish should be 10x harder than paint
 
If I didn't like how they came out, i'd put them back in the acid wash. It'd take it right off.

Also, you have to remember you're not going to get perfect quality with this method, but if you work it enough it looks good. Mine kept (I went with black) most the summer but I rubbed a dime sized area down with the heels of my boots on the heel guards, so I'm just going to paint. It's cheaper for me and I can easily touch up.

If you really like how the color came out, spray a quick clear coat over it. I did that for my heel guards and I think it made it last longer/helped with fading.
 
Cool post. Im working on my 1125R-CR and buddy said to get on this site to anodize my axle sliders and frame sliders to black anodize. Think it should really bring out the bike.
 
Sry bump an old topic, but I think it might be worth mentioning that doing this in a well ventilated area is probably a good idea. I'm pretty sure anodizing makes hydrogen gas and sulfuric acid fumes. Just wanted to throw that out there so nobody blows up their house or messes up their lungs or anything like that.
 
HAH! another Levi.
Good tip my friendah, I've gotten some sore eyes before in the presence of plating tanks. You'd be wise to keep a fresh source of air blowing in and out of your work area.


Welcome to BuellXB by the way.


Levi
 
You should make and introduction post in the general forum and maybe show us a picture of your bike.

/Threadjack/


-Levi-
 
Thanks for the tips on the anodizing. I bought some of the anodized spray paint and it looks good, but I'm going for the real-deal this weekend on my heel guards if all goes well.
 
It would probably be a whole lot easier to take rims to a place that anodizes stuff. It might be a little more pricey in the long run, but then you know they will do a good job. That and you won't have to worry about disposing of many gallons of sulfuric acid. Or possibly spilling it all over your garage or something.
 
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