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HOW-TO: REMOVE HEADER NO ENGINE ROTATE NEEDED (with pics)

Buellxb Forum

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Got it done in around 90 mins.

Had a struggle to get my fan out and to get to the one header nut.
The cracked O2 sensor meant I couldn't undo it and I struggled around it until it finally broke off.

Also get the shock out on the Uly was a bit of a mission.

Thanx for the vid!

Helped a stack! [up]
 
I have both header bolts snapped as of today! 09 Scg and it seems there is no access to the rear header unless I at least did this. Nightmare!
 
09 Lightning Scg...Have to remove the fan, o2 sensor, shock to reach the other bolt/nut no matter what tools you have. Unless you have some other tricks up your sleeves :D but not on my model [mad]. I posted a couple pics. Just trying to locate some new header bolts and inner thread size?
 
I can pull the header in about an hr and pull the whole motor in one and a half. Once you do it once or twice it is easy. Just follow his steps. The header bolts are just standard Harley header studs bought anywhere. Just call your local HD shop or dealer and they will have some.

Helps to have front and rear stands to stabilize the bike, floor jack to raise and lower motor, and rafters / tie-downs to raise and lower body to get things lined up.
 
Why did you remove your entire seat? That was not necessary. Did you not see this video a few posts back?





BTW, it looks like your leaking oil from the top of your engine.....
 
So the reason I am doing this is because my rear inner header bolt snapped clean off and has to be tapped. Trying to avoid engine rotate. Header needs to come out and muffler. Got the fan, o2 sensor, shock out of the way and now going to remove the header and muffler. Has anyone tapped this header bolt without doing the engine rotate? [sad]
 
O, this thread is really for people looking to just remove/replace their headers. If you have to repair the bolt you will have to rotate your engine. Their simply is not enough room in their to do that kind of work. Sorry.
 
Yea I just removed the whole exhaust... Not too worried about tapping it or removing it just don't want to drop the damn motor, no hoist!
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Well I dropped the motor. Hoping not to do this again for awhile. I know this post was for removing the header, but good luck not breaking a bolt in the process or finding your rear bolt missing.
18077_20150524182402_L.jpg
 
I know this is an old post but I'm getting ready to do this myself.I would make one suggestion,when you reinstall the header nut and the O2 sensor to use a little bit of anti-sieze compound so when you take it apart again it will be a little easier.
 
Hi am I missing something here, do I have to split the tail to remove the plastic under battery and regulator etc. I have removed the four screws, two under tail, two under seat at front, plastic is free but will not come out, don't want to force it.
Chris
 
To remove the header you don't need to remove the plastic at all.

Support (hang) the rear of the bike just off the ground by the seat rails (use tie down straps to the pillion peg mounts to the rafters in the garage or an A-frame ladder)
Remove the rear shock
remove the fan
remove the O2 sensor with a 7/8" crowfoot and a 6" wobbly extension on a ratchet
remove the muffler
remove the header flange bolts
pull off the header.

should take a beer and a half if your prepared:)
 
To remove the header you don't need to remove the plastic at all.

Support (hang) the rear of the bike just off the ground by the seat rails (use tie down straps to the pillion peg mounts to the rafters in the garage or an A-frame ladder)
Remove the rear shock
remove the fan
remove the O2 sensor with a 7/8" crowfoot and a 6" wobbly extension on a ratchet
remove the muffler
remove the header flange bolts
pull off the header.

should take a beer and a half if your prepared:)
:up:
 
Re header nuts, once exposed rear ones undid easily. Front seized if you try to undo them studs will ring off. Answer my way centre punch the nut, then enlarge with Dremel to give good start, then more robust drill down thru nut, try not to get to close to thread. Then sharp cold chisel and split the nut, and off it comes with minimal damage to stud, will replace with stainless nuts.
 
Yea front ones can be stubborn. I guess because they are exposed and get pummeled by the elements. I remember I sprayed mine with wd40 and let it penetrate for sometime before they came off.
 
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