Inside of Spec Ops/Hawk/Drummer ?
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Kona, the little rattly baffle in the hawk pipe will fit through the rear outlet. It just takes some convincing...I know this from experience.
The baffle in my pipe was triangular shaped and once I straightened it out a bit (careful use of vice grips) I was able to pull it right out. Its just a pain to get it to sit in one of the outlets to grab it right, but it definitely can be done.
The baffle in my pipe was triangular shaped and once I straightened it out a bit (careful use of vice grips) I was able to pull it right out. Its just a pain to get it to sit in one of the outlets to grab it right, but it definitely can be done.
I def encourage cutting your stuff apart and using whatever means ,you can get your hands on, to weld your baffles in and weld the pipes back up. (Snap a pic while your in there) 
The only way to learn this kinda stuff is to do it! I dont like the idea of paying someone else to get dirty for me. I just do not have the means of dynoing diff style exhausts or tuning right now so I cant say whats better and whats not. The pic d adams put up looks to be a very nice TIG weld, most likely the welds on your Hawk or whatever it is are MIG to save time and $. I will say from experience these mufflers are pretty thin walled,( easy to blow a hole in) but your baffles should have more than just a few tacks holding them in.
The only way to learn this kinda stuff is to do it! I dont like the idea of paying someone else to get dirty for me. I just do not have the means of dynoing diff style exhausts or tuning right now so I cant say whats better and whats not. The pic d adams put up looks to be a very nice TIG weld, most likely the welds on your Hawk or whatever it is are MIG to save time and $. I will say from experience these mufflers are pretty thin walled,( easy to blow a hole in) but your baffles should have more than just a few tacks holding them in.
By the way I don't mean ANY disrespect to any of these dudes that are modifying mufflers for other people. Keep it up we need more loud Buells out there. I know how hard it can be to keep customers happy, especially ones that have no idea how to do this stuff themselves. And from what it sounds like your guy's customer service is much better than mine would be. ha
konarider94
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******** it will, i can guarantee it is bigger than the outlet. you are welcome to come to my house and try.
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When it happened to a friends hawk we tried to pull it out the tip and it was a no go.
konarider94
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[confused]guess we will find out, its a piece of steel it cant be that complicated. and i dont mean any disrespect i think you are a very nice person, i just am not very pleased with the fabrication quality. i know things get rusty but thats why they make flap wheels and sandblasters. ive never welded over rust before.
Draxsonimy
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With the exception of some super crazy unique special cnc fabricated part there is no way it can't be figured out. And then it would just not be cost effective to build said super crazy unique special cnc fabricated part.
Its a muffler, a steel can, not some nuke warheads guidance system.
Its a muffler, a steel can, not some nuke warheads guidance system.
Here is a couple of pics. of an old, old drummer i got a few years back. the packing had blown out, the packing was just wrapped around the screen then inserted into the can. this was the econo-drummer they made a few years back, just a gutted muffler. i'm going to try to figure out how to attach the back so it will come off easier for re-packing. this style had a welded on end cap.
Basically a large resonating chamber with a small amount of packing. Amazing.
You could weld a lip around that end cap ( so it slips inside the can) and then drill holes throught the can and the lip and rivet it. Might leak a lil. I built pretty much that same set up but the material I used for the cage was too thin and it collapsed, so if anyone is gonna make this style use some heavy material.
That's what I'd do. Is there enough left to trim off about 3/8" or so from the existing shell? I usually do mine at 1/2" to make 100% sure there's enough, but all of mine are custom made anyway.
If you want it done, send it to me and I'll fix it. You'll need to trim the inside shell also.
If you want it done, send it to me and I'll fix it. You'll need to trim the inside shell also.
d adams if you were gonna weld baffles in that empty can how would you do it? I was thinking one a couple inches back from the inlet pipe on the left hand side and maybe another one couple inches back from that on the right hand side. Just to get rid of the canny sound and give me a lil low end torque back.
That's one reason I don't squirrel around with the stock cans is the hollow sound. You'd need to listen to one of mine to hear the difference. Packing will get rid of some of that type of sound. Adding additional tube to run through and reflect off of will also help, that's why the stock one sounds like it does. Without actually looking at one and how it's been chopped up, I don't know what to really recommend. It's a cheap way of making it loud, but obviously at the expense of power somewhere. There's a reason for the valve in the 12's, I'm surprised that the 9 didn't have one as well.
Mine lose a bit on the bottom end, but it's made up for everywhere else. I think this could possibly be tuned even flatter, but that's just my opinion.
Mine lose a bit on the bottom end, but it's made up for everywhere else. I think this could possibly be tuned even flatter, but that's just my opinion.
Have you guys ever seen the inside of a Flowmaster car muffler? They're just a series of baffles welded inside a can.
This may seem more simplistic to me since I've been welding and doing metal fabrication for more than 15 years both professionally and for fun.
Take a torch or preferably a plasma torch and cut the top off of one of these mufflers. Hawk says you can't figure out what he does, but I'm sure you can if you have any basic metal fabrication skills. Even if your baffle broke off, you should be able to see the remnants of the welds where it used to be.
One of these days I'm going to get my hands on a stock muffler and create a Flowmaster-type unit with baffles instead of packing. The trick will be ensuring strong welds on all sides of the baffles since it will be difficult to get to the unwelded side of the baffles once the top of the muffler goes back on. Might not even be necessary if the welds are solid on the sides you can get to while the muffler is open.
This may seem more simplistic to me since I've been welding and doing metal fabrication for more than 15 years both professionally and for fun.
Take a torch or preferably a plasma torch and cut the top off of one of these mufflers. Hawk says you can't figure out what he does, but I'm sure you can if you have any basic metal fabrication skills. Even if your baffle broke off, you should be able to see the remnants of the welds where it used to be.
One of these days I'm going to get my hands on a stock muffler and create a Flowmaster-type unit with baffles instead of packing. The trick will be ensuring strong welds on all sides of the baffles since it will be difficult to get to the unwelded side of the baffles once the top of the muffler goes back on. Might not even be necessary if the welds are solid on the sides you can get to while the muffler is open.
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