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Im gonna weld some baffles in mine and post pics.. get a tune..get it dyno'd and report back.
 
All right, I added two baffles in the empty stock can. The pic is the one thats in front of the exhasust outlet port and there is also one in front of the inlet port, pretty much a mirror image of this one.
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It got rid of the "canny" sound, Now it sounds very similar to my buddies 12 with a Jardine. It def improved low end torque as opposed to just an empty can, and it shakes less at idle. I think with an empty can the exhaust is bouncin around in there at low rpm's and causing it to shake ALOT more.
 
That was the most painstaking part of this baffle design process, was pouring over my data tables of fluid reaction forces and pressure loads.... But then I decided to just grab two pieces of scrap I had laying around and weld them in at an angle. :)
 
Ive been trying to get in on the CFD analysis at work because then I would have the program on my computer. Could mess around with some exhaust design with it.
 
Good luck you can cut it up but you will not find how I do it . The only way someone could tell what I do is if I showed you but I can't do that but here is my phone # 706-260-9734 . Randy

so the only way i can figure out how to use a cutting torch is for you to show me? i finally cut mine apart over the weekend and for everyone wondering its pretty much a gutted pipe.

step 1 - cut rear chamber out
step 2 - 3 pipes are left in the middle chamber, cut off just behind the front chamber wall with a cutting torch
step 3 - weld valve open
step 4 - put a back on the empty chamber with a dual outlet and some ****** little v baffle that will fall out in ~5k miles (your mileage may vary)

the thing that really gets me is he said he specifically made it for the race map which i knew wasnt really true but i shrugged it off. he also talked about baffles he puts inside which there are none other than the v baffle at the very end which you can see looking in the tail pipes. when it broke off i called him and he told me i didnt need it anyways and to just pull it out the end of the pipe.

i was looking for a low cost solution at the time and thats what i got. im probably going to come up with some kind of baffle to put in there now. at least all the speculation is gone now. i cant believe it took this long. im going to post up some pictures of everything tonight.
 
I will never tell but good luck . Back years ago I built pro streets and I did the mufflers my self I had a flow chamber to test with .
 
so are you telling me it does need that plate covering the holes at the end now or not? because right now all it does is flow straight through the chamber there is nothing you designed you just cut the middle out. the pipe is cut at an angle but thats about it.
 
Konarider just weld some baffles in like i did. Mine sounds great (better than a Jardine) and the performance is good too. Ill put up the dyno chart after I get tuned up.Hey when you guys put your pipe back on how far up does the female inlet go onto the header? Does it cover the whole slit in the header?
 
haha.. I had no good way of asking that header question, It was bound to sound dirty... Kona thanks dude for the pics. Bout what I expected. Simple design, welds are poopy, but what do you expect for so cheap. That V in there is same idea as the inside of a Flowmaster muffler. I dont know why he didnt just weld em to the bottom of the can instead of sticking out of the end cap with a few tacks in the middle..... d admas mufflers look sweeeeeeet.
 

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