Lots of issues

[Forest Bueller]

I am an old rider (50 years) but a new Buell owner. Something I had always wanted and finally allowed myself. I live in an area of SC where they are very scarce and certainly no one here works on them. I picked up a seemingly well maintained (visually) 07 Uly X model with all luggage and enormous knobbies and rode it home. It died three times on the 70 mile trip with the CEL coming on first then nothing. Each time I had to wait for awhile with the seat off for it to restart.

As of the two week mark, I have moved the ECM per forum posts to everywhere the short wiring will allow, insulated with excerise mat foam, cut out part of the seat pan, made and tried numerous brackets but I cannot get more than a few miles from home now without the same problem. Today it just died without warning or the CEL coming on and would not restart until it cooled down (I think).

I have already put a ton of money in this with road tires, RSS for heat and replacement fluids and filters and really do like the feel of the bike, but I cannot count on it not stranding me over and over. I am open to ideas and suggestions from those with some experience.
This seems it is going to be a very expensive and unreliable hobby at this point, but I am guessing it is due to a lack of maintenance rather than the bike. I have had many HD's and never been left on the side of the road.

Thanks to all.

Forest

 

[RaisinCain]

If the ECM is already damaged, moving it around won't help much.

I have the same bike and installed a plastic block near the front of the ECM, so the seat hits the block instead of the ECM. Try not to get discouraged, the Uly is a great bike when it is running like it should.

 

[Cooter]

Hey Forest. Sounds like the OP screwed ya a bit

Buells are pretty rock solid, and dead simple to work on, so lets try and fix the one you have.

From the limited info you've given, I'd bet the ECM isn't even the issue. The easiest test for the ECM is to start it with the seat off, then tap on the ECM housing with a screwdriver handle. If it stalls, well... there ya go. They're about $150.

If it doesn't, lets diagnose it one system at a time and find where the issue is.

Does it die every time you ride it? How many miles? Have you noticed any commonalities when it dies? Is it hot out? Low on gas? Short ride? Long ride? At night? Cold bike? Hot bike?

How does it die? Just shuts off like the switch was turned off? Or sputter then die? How does it run other wise?

Does it crank fast if you try to start it right way?

How loud is the fuel pump when you turn the key on?

Do you have any tools? Can you check for spark when it dies? Fuel pressure?

Sorry for so many questions, but they all are pertinent until we can narrow down the cause.

 

[FIREFIGHT100]

Do the lights in the dash go out when it dies? If so it may be the ignition switch. I have had and heard of others having this issue. You can remove the switch and clean it. The switch is behind everything on the dash. Here is the ignition wiring diagram.
Be sure to give us as many details that you see so we can better help you.

 

[Forest Bueller]

Hey Forest. Sounds like the OP screwed ya a bit

The easiest test for the ECM is to start it with the seat off, then tap on the ECM housing with a screwdriver handle. If it stalls, well... there ya go. They're about $150.

Done this a few times and it does not stall

If it doesn't, lets diagnose it one system at a time and find where the issue is.

Does it die every time you ride it?

Yes,

How many miles?

20 miles was the most ridden, but the distance is shortening to perhaps 5 now.

Have you noticed any commonalities when it dies? Is it hot out?

It isn't cool in SC, but today was in the 60's early and I got further than normal. When it died I let it sit with seat off and after 10 minutes I was able to return home.


Low on gas? Short ride?

Can't get it to run long enough to use any gas from the full tank.

Long ride?

Whats that?


At night? Cold bike? Hot bike?

Never been out at night yet, but as hot as it gets in 10-15 minutes.

How does it die? Just shuts off like the switch was turned off? Or sputter then die? How does it run other wise?

When it does run from cold, it seems to run great. When it had previously shut off the CEL would come on and then it would stall. I could pull in the clutch and restart it again. Now, it just quietly stops with no warning.

Does it crank fast if you try to start it right way?

Nope, just the usual HD pause then cranks. Battery is new and in the 13+ range and on a Battery Tender when parked.

How loud is the fuel pump when you turn the key on?

Relativily quiet. But, I don't know what is normal

Do you have any tools? Yes, but not on the side of the road pushing it to a clearing Can you check for spark when it dies? I haven't yet. Fuel pressure? I have opened the cap to see if there is a vacuum but it just restarts when it is ready.

Sorry for so many questions, but they all are pertinent until we can narrow down the cause.

No, I am grateful for all inputs above.

RE: The ECM, I cannot find anything cheaper that $300+ online or eBay. It is the Buell y0152.3ab

 

[Forest Bueller]

BTW: One odd thing that happens is when I lift the bike off the side stand and the key is off and the Kill Switch is on, the dash guages will swing as though I had just turned the key on, but I haven't yet.

 

[Forest Bueller]

Hey Firefighter, I honestly haven't looked while trying to get off the road. I will make the effort to notice tomorrow.

 

[Cooter]

BTW: One odd thing that happens is when I lift the bike off the side stand and the key is off and the Kill Switch is on, the dash guages will swing as though I had just turned the key on, but I haven't yet.

That's a big clue right there Forest...

These are known to have issues with the wiring harness right around the steering neck. The dash gauges swinging is them losing power, then getting power back.

Go out and start it, swing the handlebars lock to lock, grab what you can of that part of the harness and wiggle. Even take off the front windscreen and wiggle wires in there around the ignition switch. My bet is that it dies, and needs some minor wiring fix right there.

 

[Forest Bueller]

Just remembered another detail. When I do turn on the key, the headlights will brighten and dim a few times on their own. Since I have never seen another Buell up close, I don't know if this is Normal or Not. Seemed odd, but it's all Greek to me.

 

[Cooter]

Not normal. Check the wiring.

 

[user_deleted]

BTW: One odd thing that happens is when I lift the bike off the side stand and the key is off and the Kill Switch is on, the dash guages will swing as though I had just turned the key on, but I haven't yet.

\
you have a few maladies going on there. #1-if the ignition switch is OFF nothing else including red run switches or sidestand safety switches matter. if moving the bike activates the gauge cluster you have a main wiring harness short and in all probability it is behind the plastic steering neck protector guard. #2- if the bike shuts off while riding down the road it is typically loss of electrical power associated with either a bad main ground attachment point....faulty ignition relay.... faulty ignition switch....faulty red run switch....or faulty ecm. your relays are inside your fuse box and schematic of same on fuse box lid. i've posted on here a bazillion times where they are available on the cheap and cross references. with bike warm and idling and seat removed wiggle the 2 main wire clusters that plug into the ecm and also the tap test as shaughn mentioned above. then wiggle the right handlebar switch gear wiring harness at the base of the switchgear housing to test the red run switch. then lightly wiggle the key in the ignition switch. any change in engine tone or shut-down during these suggested test will identify the culprit. lastly...take a look at several of my posts in the past few weeks. in them you will find all your ground wires identified...where they're located....relay cross references....ecm fault code accessing....many easy trouble shooting steps directly related to your ailments.

 

[Forest Bueller]

I have the blocks with the bike and it came to me with the low seat on it only. Like many on the forums, I believed the low seat was pressing on the ECM causing a break in the connection. However, the wiring issues now seem more probable. Thanks for the input.

 

[Forest Bueller]

Thank you Lunaticfringe. Today will be discovery day for all the possible causes.

 

[user_deleted]

Thank you Lunaticfringe. Today will be discovery day for all the possible causes.

my pleasure forest. concentrate specifically on the front of your bike before proceeding elsewhere. simplest place to start is multiple "wiggle tests" at front of bike with switch on.

 

[Cooter]

Multiple wiggle tests... haha. You're a naughty, naughty, boy!

 

[Forest Bueller]

Been checking the wiring and grounds all morning and found no breaks or rub spots. However when I took the Fly Screen off in the process there are these two blue cellophane wrapped things that look like small Harddrives. They are bolted to the inside of the yellow portion very loosely and then duct taped over the crude mounts. I could not find these in the Service Manual but then don't know what they are and do they belomg there. From all the crude wiring and many zip ties it looks as though someone has converted to HID, but I really don't know. Moving the handlebars does nothing to dash lights or running lights and ignition is on. Haven't been able to take it out yet as it is gutted now, but the headlights still come on and repeatedly when the Ign is on and the bike not running.

 

[RaisinCain]

there are these two blue cellophane wrapped things that look like small Harddrives

They are probably the ballasts for the HID lights.

 

[user_deleted]

forest: that is a hell of a mess and what i'd call a "start from scratch" situation. see below for correct headlight wiring. i would start there and see what you have.
wiring for headlight plug to plug harness:
orange to orange..............orange is switched only positive
white to white.................white is high beam on only
yellow to yellow.................yellow is low beam on only
black to black..................is negative ground

 

[Cooter]

Ya it's a pretty cheesy HID ballast install. If you don't like the HID's, just take out the bulbs and unplug the ballast. You'll be left with the factory headlight connectors that attach to the back of regular headlight bulbs.

The rest of it looks factory to me?

If you are saying the headlights come on and off while you are moving stuff around... There's a problem.

It should be running while you are wiggling stuff, because that's the symptom. You could be losing power to the fuel pump, or ignition, and not notice when it's just ignition on, engine off.

 

[Forest Bueller]

I spent the day bent over the cluster of odd wires under the flyscreen and found, disconnected, cleaned and reset every ground I could locate. Nothing visually loose or corroded. The mess for the HID's is terrible. I don't see so well anymore at night and just don't drive so would just as well take them off and return to stock, if I knew what has been grafted in and isn't OEM. There are grommets and unattached plugs everywhere. Ignition switch was tight and bundled and did not wiggle or cause any cut-out. At the end of the day with a serious backache I was able to take it for a quickie 8 miles ride and frankly it seem to run great with no shut off or CEL. Going to try again today to see how far I can get.