Lots of issues

[Cooter]

I hope it goes well but since motorcycles don't fix themselves, you won't be able to trust it until you find a issue

The factory harness does have some plugs that are not used.

 

[Forest Bueller]

Spent yesterday bent over the wiring cluster under the flyscreen. What a mess with wires going nowhere. Plugs dangling, more plugs coupled and zip tied. No wiggle results from the ignition. Cleaned every ground I could find and some were corroded but now cleaned and coated with electrolytic spooge. Took it out briefly last night for an 8 mile loop with no problems. Going to try for longer if the monsoons let up.

 

[Forest Bueller]

I hope it goes well but since motorcycles don't fix themselves, you won't be able to trust it until you find a issue

The factory harness does have some plugs that are not used.

Thanks Cooter, you have given me a lot already. I don't give up easily, but my body limits how much time I can spend looking. We'll get it!

 

[Forest Bueller]

Guys, I think we are close!

And the story continues. Took it out today for a ride up to Lake Lure NC (where part of Dirty Dancing was filmed) which has beautiful twisties. On the trip up of about 40 miles, it ran great with only one cough and one fart (the bike, not me). When it did these, CEL came on and I was able to just bump start again and not miss a beat.

After lunch and on the return back, the CEL was on for the first 2 miles and then coughed again and CEL went out for good. No issues until I got to my own driveway. Now it just stopped running, the CEL came on and it refused to start at all just as it has before. Pushed it into the garage for further inspection.

Terrific ride while it lasted. Glad it didn’t strand me this time and certainly enjoyed it while it was running.

Forest

 

[user_deleted]

forest: if you are reasonably confident you cleaned up that mess behind your flyscreen and have eliminated the wiring jungle as source of problems then i would do the below as it appears your ECM has stored multiple trouble codes and bike also suffering from intermittent electrical gremlin:
1-see link below. simple way to read stored trouble codes. does NOT clear the codes but identifies problems. it must be done.
2-on your ulysses the fusebox is under the seat. remove cover....look at underside of lid for schematic...find the relays shown on the lid. at the very least replace the IGNITION relay. it interchanges at any quality auto parts store with ford and chrysler a/c relays and is cheap. your bundled wire mess in the front may have very well affected that relay. replace it to eliminate it as source of problem.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/146574.html

 

[Forest Bueller]

forest: 1-see link below. simple way to read stored trouble codes. does NOT clear the codes but identifies problems. it must be done.
2-on your ulysses the fusebox is under the seat. remove cover....look at underside of lid for schematic...find the relays shown on the lid. at the very least replace the IGNITION relay. it interchanges at any quality auto parts store with ford and chrysler a/c relays and is cheap. your bundled wire mess in the front may have very well affected that relay. replace it to eliminate it as source of problem.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/146574.html

I have moved all of the relays, but not replaced yet. Lost nothing else related to them so if appears to me that it is not them. Cheap fix though so will try. It is cold now, but just cranks and will not even attempt to start, so I am back to the CEL On and no start part of the Manual. My back is killing me!
The codes thing is something I have read over and over but it seems I have to have a PC and ECMSpy which leaves me out on both accounts. I am and have been a Mac guy since 1984 and don't have a Windows install disc to set up on a virtual or BootCamp partition since until now, I never needed one.

Thanks for your continued checking.

 

[Cooter]

And don't forget to say "Beetlejuice...Beetlejuice...Beetlejuice..." before you ride!

You don't need ECMSpy to check codes. Click the link.
I'm actually happy that it does't start, now we can find the problem!

 

[Forest Bueller]

Dash Flash

Here is what I found, but frankly it makes little sense to me. I think it is 21 and 16 , then over and over.

 

[Forest Bueller]

Here is what I found, but frankly it makes little sense to me. I think it is 21 and 16 , then over and over.

Despite the code, the battery is good at 13.7 volts with no load. However, the Exhaust Actuator does not move more that a fraction. You can hear the effort to turn, but then nothing. Took it apart and the return spring was off so placed it back in the slot. It then cycled just fine a few times so reconnnected the cable and it stopped again. Nothing! Anyone have a spare Buell S0138.2AA as i cannot find one on the internet? I can however find the .1AA instead which I guess was the prior version.

 

[Cooter]

The battery (16) can set a code when it is bad, by losing voltage during a big draw (cranking). Testing the voltage is one thing. A load test will tell you whether the battery is good or not.

You can disconnect the solenoid cable, extend it and:

The code should go away. Or I'm sure you can find someone on here with a spare exhaust actuator code (21), they get removed when you put on an aftermarket muffler so there's lots around, check the classifieds on here and BadWeb.

Codes:

Trouble Code XB Trouble Code 1125 Error Byte Error Bit (0-7) Bit Value (dec.) Meaning
11 P0122 0 5 32 TPS Voltage too low
P0123 0 6 64 TPS Voltage too high
13 P0151 0 2 4 Rear O2 Sensor always rich
P0152 0 3 8 Rear O2 Sensor always lean
P0154 0 4 16 Rear O2 Sensor inactive
14 P0117 0 0 1 Engine/Coolant Temp. Sensor Voltage too low
P0118 0 1 2 Engine/Coolant Temp. Sensor Voltage too high
15 P0112 1 6 64 Intake Air Temp. Sensor Voltage too low
P0113 1 7 128 Intake Air Temp. Sensor Voltage too high
16 P0562 1 4 16 Battery Voltage too low
P0563 1 5 32 Battery Voltage too high
21 ? 4 0 1 Exhaust Valve always open
? 4 1 2 Exhaust Valve always closed
? 4 2 4 Exhaust Valve Controller Voltage too low
? 4 3 8 Exhaust Valve Controller Voltage too high
22 P1110 1 6 64 Active Intake Controller Voltage too low
P1111 5 7 128 Active Intake Controller Voltage too high
P1112 4 4 16 Active Intake Control TPS Feedback Failure
23 P0261 1 2 4 Injector 1 (Front) Control Voltage too low
P0262 1 3 8 Injector 1 (Front) Control Voltage too high
24 P2303 2 6 64 Coil 2 (Rear) Control Voltage too low
P2304 2 7 128 Coil 2 (Rear) Control Voltage too high
25 P2301 1 0 1 Coil 1 (Front) Control Voltage too low
P2302 1 1 2 Coil 1 (Front) Control Voltage too high
26 P1154 5 4 16 Clutch Switch Voltage too low
? 5 5 32 Clutch Switch Voltage too high
27 P1155 5 2 4 Neutral Switch Voltage too low
? 5 3 8 Neutral Switch Voltage too high
32 P0264 2 4 16 Injector 2 (Rear) Control Voltage too low
P0265 2 5 32 Injector 2 (Rear) Control Voltage too high
33 P0628 2 2 4 Fuel Pump Control Voltage too low
P0629 2 3 8 Fuel Pump Control Voltage too high
34 P0506 6 5 32 Idle Air Controller Position too low (RPM too high)
P0507 6 6 64 Idle Air Controller Position too high (RPM too low)
P0511 6 7 128 Idle Air Controller Curcuit Failure
35 ? 2 0 1 Tachometer Output Voltage too low
? 2 1 2 Tachometer Output Voltage too high
36 P0691 0 7 128 Cooling Fan 1 (Rear/Right) Control Voltage too low
43 P0502 6 2 4 Vehicle Speed Sensor Input Voltage too low
P0503 6 3 8 Vehicle Speed Sensor Input Voltage too high
? 6 4 16 Vehicle Speed Output Voltage too low
44 P1151 3 6 64 Bank Angle Sensor Voltage too low
P1152 3 7 128 Bank Angle Sensor Voltage too high
46 P0616 5 0 1 Starter Relay Control Voltage too low
47 P1601 5 1 2 Auxiliary Power Relay Control Voltage too low
52 P0604 3 4 16 ECM RAM Failure
53 P0605 3 3 8 ECM ROM Failure
54 P0603 3 2 4 ECM EEPROM Failure
55 P0607 3 1 2 ECM Microprocessor Failure
54 ? 3 0 1 ECM Sync. Failure
? P1501 4 5 32 Sidestand Switch Voltage too low
P1502 4 6 64 Sidestand Switch Voltage too high
P1503 4 7 128 Sidestand Down
? P0107 8 4 16 Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Voltage too low
P0108 8 5 32 Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Voltage too high
? P2228 8 6 64 Barometric Pressure Sensor Voltage too low
P2229 8 7 128 Barometric Pressure Sensor Voltage too high
? P1047 7 4 32 O2 EGO Correction Cylinder Difference too high
57 P0192 7 2 4 Fuel Pressure Sensor Voltage too low
P0193 7 3 8 Fuel Pressure Sensor Voltage too high
P0087 7 1 2 Fuel Rail/System Pressure too low
? P0131 7 5 32 Front O2 Sensor always rich
P0132 7 6 64 Front O2 Sensor always lean
P0134 7 7 128 Front O2 Sensor inactive
? P0693 8 0 1 Cooling Fan 2 (Left) Control Voltage too low
P0694 8 1 2 Cooling Fan 2 (Left) Control Voltage too high
? P0337 8 2 4 Crank Position Sensor Voltage too low
P0338 8 3 8 Crank Position Sensor Voltage too high
? ? 10 1 2 Instrument Cluster Mode Button stuck
? ? 10 2 4 Instrument Cluster Toggle Button stuck
? ? 10 3 8 Instrument Cluster Low Fuel Light Voltage too low
? ? 10 4 16 Instrument Cluster Low Fuel Light Voltage too high
? ? 10 5 32 Instrument Cluster Communication Error
? ? 10 6 64 Instrument Cluster Oil Pressure Light Voltage Failure
? ? 10 7 128 Instrument Cluster Security Sytem Failure

 

[Forest Bueller]

Thanks Cooter. The actuator cam was rounded and not grabbing so I screwed it in place per another post. Now it tries, but hits a stop so I got underneath and whacked on the cam on the muffler. It was stuck closed (I think) but now moves reluctantly however the Actuator Cam now only moves perhaps ¾ of an inch. BTW: the cable is frayed. Getting there, but slowly.

 

[Cooter]

Just make sure the exhaust valve is open all the way and lock it there. Toss the cable and the actuator.

You can stop the CEL from coming on by either leaving the actuator on the bike and plugged in, or download ECMDroid and click off the option.

 

[ocgreenmachine]

Despite the code, the battery is good at 13.7 volts with no load. However, the Exhaust Actuator does not move more that a fraction. You can hear the effort to turn, but then nothing. Took it apart and the return spring was off so placed it back in the slot. It then cycled just fine a few times so reconnnected the cable and it stopped again. Nothing! Anyone have a spare Buell S0138.2AA as i cannot find one on the internet? I can however find the .1AA instead which I guess was the prior version.

I've got two actuators buried in the garage... One from a 2006 xb12, and one from a 2009 xb12. I'm thinking one of those may be of use to you?

 

[Forest Bueller]

ocgreenmachine: PM me if you can when you find them and we can do some business, Really need a cable also as mine is shredded and unraveling which stops the return to closed.Using the zip tye technique, I propped the muffler flap open today, changed the black and furry plugs for new Iridium and tried again. Made it 5.3 miles from home when it just shut off with no CEL and would not bump start. Sat an hour in the sun trying now and then and finally ran into a nice man with a flatbed who took me back home at start again. Wonderful, kind stranger who would accept no money,

BTW: Where is the For Sale Board on here?

 

[Forest Bueller]

Another sincere thanks to all who have tried to help me. I'm afraid now that I have to concede defeat. I can spend no more funds on this and it was never intended to be a "project". Just a reliable, rideable Ulysses. Stranded again and towed again. Nothing I can do seems to effect anything. On the chance that there are any members in the Asheville, Spartanburg, Greenville areas who know of a qualified mechanic or anyone that might have the ability themselves consider this For Sale. New Michelin Pilots, new Rob Crins RSS, new Exhaust Actuator cable (on the way from St. Paul). [email protected]

 

[Forest Bueller]

Thanks Cooter, but for me that means buying another Phone also. I'm already way too deep into this as it is.