Are you leaning towards an O2 sensor? Doesnt that only come online once the engine warms up?
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Are you leaning towards an O2 sensor? Doesnt that only come online once the engine warms up?
river_rat17
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If anything it seems to get worse when it is warm but not much difference between cold or hot. It can be a hassle to take off sometimes because I have to get the rpms steady, twisting the throttle a couple times to get it going, even when I'm shifting down I have to blip the throttle twice to get the rpms up.
river_rat17
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It seems to be a rich issue from all my research. I may be wrong but I thought lean is getting the rpms and no power and rich is getting no rpms with alot of throttle.
river_rat17
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Is a dongle more friendly than the ecmspy cable and program?
lowkey
Well-known member
Yes that is correct...
Did you do the intake seal test yet!?! I'm going to post another thread for you, read the first post and see how similar his issues are? Now go to post #7 and read it after the intake seals were replaced.
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?32983-O2-sensor-troubles-baffling-me&p=382888&viewfull=1#post382888
BTW you could have any number of issues but since you don't have a way to read the ECM right now I pointed you to the most likely culprit that you can check and see right now without spending a dime. Do you have a check engine light on or flashing? 02 sensor is cheap and start to go bad around 15K so go ahead but I'm not one to blindly through parts at a vehicle to fix it. Just look at all the **** that guy was willing to buy in the thread I linked to then he did the seals and magic...
Here is a list of 02 sensors you can use.
Yes with the bluetooth one you can communicate with an android device AND datalog without having a laptop and cable connected to the bike.
With the cable you will need a windows based (7 or older?) laptop. Really this is an outdated setup if you don't already have the cable, no reason to go this route unless you don't have an android device I guess. People seem to have issues getting this setup up and running with their bike, countless threads on the topic.
river_rat17
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No I havnt done the intake test yet, I will do it today hopefully. I have changed plugs before and they looked light brown. And I have zero dummy lights on bike and nothing shows up in ecmspy either. I'll be posting a video later of what the bike is actually doing. And thank you all for the help so far. Hope to get this figured out.
Simplymichaeljr
Well-known member
I would flash a stock map or a race map from buellmods.com and then ride the bike in the closed loop around 30-30mph for 20 miles to let the ecm learn the fuelling map. You never know if the PO tried to make changes to it. .......
Last edited:
river_rat17
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The PO did tell me he has advanced the timing on the ecm. What should the timing be for the dean adams map?
Chicknstripn
Well-known member
Download a service manual! www.buellmods.com
Or use the ECMspy user guide to walk you through the steps required to set your timing.
Also, if you read the ECMspy user guide it specifically states that it is in your best interest to insure that your bike is in good running order before performing any ECM modifications. I believe it also states, as does the service manual, that you should perform a TPS reset after changing any of the ECM parameters.
If you have an ECMspy cable you have everything you need to perform a TPS reset.
However, before you dig yourself in any deeper insure that those intake seals aren't leaking. Otherwise, you'll be chasing your own tail.
Good luck
Or use the ECMspy user guide to walk you through the steps required to set your timing.
Also, if you read the ECMspy user guide it specifically states that it is in your best interest to insure that your bike is in good running order before performing any ECM modifications. I believe it also states, as does the service manual, that you should perform a TPS reset after changing any of the ECM parameters.
If you have an ECMspy cable you have everything you need to perform a TPS reset.
However, before you dig yourself in any deeper insure that those intake seals aren't leaking. Otherwise, you'll be chasing your own tail.
Good luck
Stock timing maps should work fine with it. Check the seals first, 2nd is the CPS. No error codes will be thrown, bike will run erratically, spit, sputter and do all kinds of weird stuff sometimes. I've had it happen personally. I do have a map available for a fee after you sort out the other possible problems.
river_rat17
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I did a tps reset today which did not help it, then I did the intake gasket test. The bikes rpm did not drop when I sprayed brake cleaner on the seals. I took a video of the issue.
https://youtu.be/LxlV6C14G8Y
I'll be checking the CPS next.
https://youtu.be/LxlV6C14G8Y
I'll be checking the CPS next.
lowkey
Well-known member
First off nice looking bike!
Audio on the vid wasn't so great but looks like the RPM's are slow to return and from what I can tell the backfires are not coming through the intake but exhaust somewhere right? Check the the bolt torque on the header to head flanges they can come loose over time. The rear one is an absolute PITA! While you are checking them Check the clamp where the header meets the muffler as well. I forgot when I very first bought my bike from the PO on the first short ride I found one of the header bolts had snapped off in the front head and the bike behaved somewhat like in your video.
Now that you have a way to read the ECU, can you check for stored codes for us? What is your AFV reading?
Audio on the vid wasn't so great but looks like the RPM's are slow to return and from what I can tell the backfires are not coming through the intake but exhaust somewhere right? Check the the bolt torque on the header to head flanges they can come loose over time. The rear one is an absolute PITA! While you are checking them Check the clamp where the header meets the muffler as well. I forgot when I very first bought my bike from the PO on the first short ride I found one of the header bolts had snapped off in the front head and the bike behaved somewhat like in your video.
Now that you have a way to read the ECU, can you check for stored codes for us? What is your AFV reading?
Use this type of socket and the rear exhaust flange nuts are a piece of cake. Do NOT over tighten them!
river_rat17
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Just an update, I changed my intake seals just to be sure and nothing changed. I did find header bolts loose, not the problem though. Starting to suspect it's something in the ecm is incorrect.
Simplymichaeljr
Well-known member
I need me a set of those cooter. I hate when that socket comes of the knuckle when I'm changing spark plugs. ...car, truck or bike
Simplymichaeljr
Well-known member
Check your timing https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2epTWjP5rfg
lowkey
Well-known member
Did this bike ever run right for you, or you bought it running like this?
It's worth a look to make sure the injector wires are going to the right ones "Pink red color front cylinder. Green rear cylinder". Taken from this thread where the motor was rotated and the leads were installed backwards. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/788073.html?1466800821
Also found this the other day for the first time, I've never come across it on this forum but I want to do it once I get a dongle. The TPS seems to be very sensitive even though I've never had mine out of sync.
"Remember to save your starting point data, just in case. I would also recommend a solid TPS setting where your TPS sensor is preloaded to the throttle plate shaft.
Pasting info here to be helpful, as this is very important for your start point.
At idle, the throttle body plate bounces slightly due to the pulsations from the opening and closing of the intake valves.
It is important to eliminate any play between the throttle plate and the TPS.
Here is how to do it:
Guys, Here is the deal on the solid TPS reset.
Think of the TPS as a spring loaded pot. It sends a voltage signal to the ECM and it adds fuel accordingly. Very simple really. The entire process is actually based on the starting point of the TPS in relation to the throttle plate. The TPS has two plastic index tabs that must line up with the tabs on the throttle plate shaft. It seems most TPS sensors are installed straight up from the factory and this is ok for a while. After the bike is broken in, these tabs get a small amount of wear on them and they are no longer properly timed with the true zero of the throttle plate. This is when everyone runs to the stealer to get their TPS reset. It is the combination of wear on the TPS tabs, and lack of technical proficiency of the techs that seem to always provide mixed results.
In order to be certain you have a true zero try the following:
With your air box assembly and base off, the TPS sensor is right on top of the throttle body. If your TPS has two orange dots, you have the new revision with the vertical alignment tabs. This procedure applies to the old style as well. Adjust both throttle cables so sufficient slack is available. Back off idle adjustment cable until the throttle plate will snap shut without touching the idle cable stop. With a scribe, mark the TPS position by scratching a single line from the throttle body to the TPS. This will serve as a reference point just in case. With a 7mm open end wrench, remove the two TPS mounting bolts and remove the TPS from the throttle body. Clean the debris from the back of the TPS and the side of the throttle body. Apply a small amount of high temp silicone grease to the tabs on the TPS to minimize wear in the future. Replace the TPS but leave the mounting bolts slightly loose and rotate the TPS full left (counterclockwise). Insure the throttle plate is totally closed, then rotate the TPS until you feel the spring make contact with the alignment tabs on the throttle plate. Rotate the TPS slightly clockwise to preload the mechanical zero position and secure mounting bolts. Most of you will notice that according to your reference marks, your new position is just slightly right of the old position. Now your TPS and throttle plate are truly aligned, without play. Connect all wiring and perform a TPS reset, just like the manual states.
Now you have a solid TPS zero.
Ride and feel the difference. I have no more sneezing or lean like surging." Taken from this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/323610.html?1197645760
I keep watching your video of your bike and stuck on the slow idle return as your main focus to track down for the cure, for me this is down to unmetered air or bad sensor reading. Look at dialing in TPS as posted above, zero timing, and swap the O2 sensor in that order. First two are free and the O2 is $20.00.
It's worth a look to make sure the injector wires are going to the right ones "Pink red color front cylinder. Green rear cylinder". Taken from this thread where the motor was rotated and the leads were installed backwards. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/788073.html?1466800821
Also found this the other day for the first time, I've never come across it on this forum but I want to do it once I get a dongle. The TPS seems to be very sensitive even though I've never had mine out of sync.
"Remember to save your starting point data, just in case. I would also recommend a solid TPS setting where your TPS sensor is preloaded to the throttle plate shaft.
Pasting info here to be helpful, as this is very important for your start point.
At idle, the throttle body plate bounces slightly due to the pulsations from the opening and closing of the intake valves.
It is important to eliminate any play between the throttle plate and the TPS.
Here is how to do it:
Guys, Here is the deal on the solid TPS reset.
Think of the TPS as a spring loaded pot. It sends a voltage signal to the ECM and it adds fuel accordingly. Very simple really. The entire process is actually based on the starting point of the TPS in relation to the throttle plate. The TPS has two plastic index tabs that must line up with the tabs on the throttle plate shaft. It seems most TPS sensors are installed straight up from the factory and this is ok for a while. After the bike is broken in, these tabs get a small amount of wear on them and they are no longer properly timed with the true zero of the throttle plate. This is when everyone runs to the stealer to get their TPS reset. It is the combination of wear on the TPS tabs, and lack of technical proficiency of the techs that seem to always provide mixed results.
In order to be certain you have a true zero try the following:
With your air box assembly and base off, the TPS sensor is right on top of the throttle body. If your TPS has two orange dots, you have the new revision with the vertical alignment tabs. This procedure applies to the old style as well. Adjust both throttle cables so sufficient slack is available. Back off idle adjustment cable until the throttle plate will snap shut without touching the idle cable stop. With a scribe, mark the TPS position by scratching a single line from the throttle body to the TPS. This will serve as a reference point just in case. With a 7mm open end wrench, remove the two TPS mounting bolts and remove the TPS from the throttle body. Clean the debris from the back of the TPS and the side of the throttle body. Apply a small amount of high temp silicone grease to the tabs on the TPS to minimize wear in the future. Replace the TPS but leave the mounting bolts slightly loose and rotate the TPS full left (counterclockwise). Insure the throttle plate is totally closed, then rotate the TPS until you feel the spring make contact with the alignment tabs on the throttle plate. Rotate the TPS slightly clockwise to preload the mechanical zero position and secure mounting bolts. Most of you will notice that according to your reference marks, your new position is just slightly right of the old position. Now your TPS and throttle plate are truly aligned, without play. Connect all wiring and perform a TPS reset, just like the manual states.
Now you have a solid TPS zero.
Ride and feel the difference. I have no more sneezing or lean like surging." Taken from this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/323610.html?1197645760
I keep watching your video of your bike and stuck on the slow idle return as your main focus to track down for the cure, for me this is down to unmetered air or bad sensor reading. Look at dialing in TPS as posted above, zero timing, and swap the O2 sensor in that order. First two are free and the O2 is $20.00.
river_rat17
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- Oct 16, 2016
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The PO said he adjusted the timing in the program never touched the static timing but I can't find where he did that in the program. If he advanced it I think it would cause this problem. Anyone know how to adjust timing in the program?
river_rat17
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- Oct 16, 2016
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Lowkey, yes this has been an issue since I got this bike. The PO lied to me before I bought the bike then confessed to it after I contacted him about it. He said he has had Xopti work on the dean adams tune to try and fix this issue. I'm wondering if something is not checked right in the program. I just don't know what the original setup should be. Maybe he has the warm up enrichment on all the time, idk. I think he liked to tinker alot and he has also sent me about 5 maps he tried also has 2 different eeproms. I would change the CPS but I don't want to throw parts at it. I would think the CPS would be causing issues through out the whole range not just 0-4000 rpm. But again Idk. And when I did the intake seals I checked to make sure the tps was not damaged and cleaned, and made sure the injector cables were correct, they said rear and front. I cleaned the throttle body really well and did a proper tps reset when completed.
Simplymichaeljr
Well-known member
While you have the cam cover off you can check the timing AND the CPS using a multimeter. Do a search for checking the CPS.
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