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Ok I will take the dobeck off the battery and ride to work tomorrow and hopefully all will be well! I have had it on for years and loved it.....
 
Well i just looked to see if it was cutting on and the light was green, but i did not check the calibration i just disconnected the system to see if it was the problem. I will ride tomorrow and update, on another note the battery was all messed up and janky it was just bouncing around under the seat the metal clasp on the rubber band that keeps it in place had came off and not on the disconnect side it came off on the bottom where it secures around the suspension.
 
Would wait till you get ECMspy so you can see what is going on other wise you are just doing things blindly . Why remove stuff if you don't have to. Need to see where your AFV is at and your ergo correction and if 02 is working correctly.
 
AFV was102.9% at idle after letting it cool off and then restarting it. I don't know if that's where it's supposed to be or not? I tried to ride my bike into work this morning and before I could even get out of parking lot if I gave it throttle it paused sputtered, spit, and backfired then surged forward. It also didn't want to stay running so I parked it and got in the car.
 
this happened with the dobeck on it?

when you put the key on, do you hear anything strange with the fuel pump?

rchuff is right without ecmspy you are working blind..
 
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Gloom i removed the dobeck from the battery. The fuel pump primes and sounds normal. I have the Bluetooth reader that I bought on this site.The only thing that I forgot to mention was yesterday when the fuel was boiling and spraying out the overflow tube under acceleration i heard hissing out of the airbox "that was with dobeck", but this morning it was unplugged.
 
You'll have to rotate your engine and remove your breathers so you can actually inspect them.
I had a breather that I suspected wasn't working properly, was the front, I had to rotate the engine to get to it. When I pulled it, it looked perfectly fine. However, the breathers are suppose to work like a one way valve. Only allowing air/oil/whatever pass through the rockerbox cover out through the breather. They are not suppose to allow air/oil/whatever to go back into the engine.
I washed mine up real good and went old school; I just puckered up and tried blowing air through it the wrong way. There was absolutely no resistance, therefore I knew the breather was garbage.
Someone else may have a better suggestion.
Anyway, an engine rotation will give you an opportunity to inspect things that are otherwise impossible to access.
 
If my bike is hot enough for the fuel to boil then why isn't my bike going into limp mode and losing a cylinder?
 
I'm not an expert, however, I do believe lunatic had the best prognosis for your issues. I believe you have an issue with one of the vent systems on your bike.
To answer your question about your bike going into "limp mode" (a non cialis moment and quite embarrassing for anyone that has experienced or witnessed such an event): I believe that if your head temp sensor, ecm and fan are working properly your bike will not go limp. Your fan will run more and for longer periods of time in order to keep the engine cool. Also your engine has a lot more air circulating around it than your fuel does.
I don't know what temp fuel boils at but I'm sure that temp is not much hotter than what your engine runs at. And if your fuel cell(or whatever) is not venting properly then it's like boiling water in a pressure cooker. Definitely doesn't take as much energy(heat) to cook or boil anything in a pressure vessel.
Now this is not an expert explanation of what's wrong or going on with your bike it's just my amateur ramblings of what I THINK is going on in an attempt to answer your original question about the bike cutting down to one cylinder (limp mode) in order to save itself from over heating.
Makes sense to me.
I'm sure others will chime in if I'm off base.
 
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Just from what you are saying about it pausing as you give it throttle sounds like TPS is going bad . I had almost the same problem when I would give it throttle it would bog down and almost die but would get off the throttle and would idle. Had no codes stored but when I tried to do a tps reset it would not zero out and found my problem to be that. Might not be your problem but that is why I like ecmspy it is a great tool to have. Hope this helps you out and don't want to see some one throw parts at something if they don't need them. By the way your bike is running to lean if it is making your gas boil in your tank. My bike would do that in the summer when it was stock but not now with race ecm .
 
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This is just so frustrating I'm not in Georgia anymore I'm in Arizona in an apartment so I don't have a space to work on my bike or secure anything if I have to start taking it apart and I have half the tools I had in Georgia. I rotated my engine out once to replace the rocker box gaskets but I don't have the space to do that here and I don't have the money to pay somebody else the crazy cost to dig into it.
 
That sucks man.
Are you positive the fuel tank vent is working properly?
And have you looked into how much it costs to replace? That's a part that's easy to get to.
I'd pull it off the tank and give it a good cleaning at least. See if that helps.
You definitely need to get this figured out before full blow Arizona summer heat!
Wish I could do more to help you.
Good luck
 
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