I'd like to help but now I'm totally confused after reading this thread. Sorry but, please lay out for me what
exactly it does?
So far I got:
1) It ran OK but felt hot one day, the fan acted normally.
I'd guess normal there, but clues are in the details, Thanks
2) A different day, you needed fuel and opened the tank and saw fuel bubbling.
Did you see it before filling up, or after? Still normal-ish though, it will bubble well before it's dangerous (I ride an 1125...). But it was running OK that day as well?
3) A completely different day you re-started a warm bike and it wouldn't idle, and also wouldn't run, even at full throttle. Then, immediately you re-started it and it ran fine the rest of the day. Did you have to re-start it during that period while it was running ok?
How did it start that day when it initially ran bad? Did it start easily?, or did it take a few tries to start it before it ran crappy?
4) Now the fuel bubbles AND it spits out of the fuel overflow tube when hot (like an 1125).
That's unusual for an XB, especially with a low ambient temp.
5) When it's running ****ty, and it dies, then you hear the fuel pump prime. That's normal.
If all of that ^^^^^ is true, I can eliminate some of the guesses and I have some work for you to do
To paraphrase, It sounds like some days it runs ok all day, other days it runs bad but only just after starting it (warm or cold bike)? It won't be running down the highway OK... then just start to run ****ty? Right?
Bad crankcase breathers can cause weird running issues, but can not pressurize the fuel tank. So don't rotate the engine yet!
The Dobeck is a gel filled very tough unit meant to take the vibes of Buells and Harleys. Highly unlikely it's an issue, but it is also totally unnecessary since you already have a race tune. It's improper diagnosis procedure, but go ahead and leave it off. I doubt it matters either way, but it will eliminate some possible wiring issues, as you have an intermittent problem.
Bad gas is a slight possibility, but not normally in the US and hardly for an intermittent problem. If it's trying to run on bad gas, it's usually just gonna run ****ty... But see below about additives.
It's strange you don't have a code. Your "race program" may be set up to mask that. Check your settings with ECMspy etc...
We need to see if it's a Fuel, Spark, or Air, issue so lets eliminate the easy stuff first.
Air: Take off the air filter and blow it out from the inside ONLY. Is it greasy?
Look down the throttle body, open the blade and use a clean rag with carb cleaner on it to clean the bore and the back side of the blade. Don't just shoot that crap in there!
Is the IAT sensor still in there? Is it plugged in? Don't spray it with carb cleaner, but you can wipe it off gently.
While your in there, take off the air filter base plate and try to pull apart all the connectors you can get too, t's out of diagnosis order, but hopefully you find a bad connection.
Fuel: You'll need a pressure gauge that screws onto the schraeder valve on the injector line. And you'll need to be able to read it
while the bike is running ****ty to eliminate a pump, regulator, or cavitation problem. Should have a consistent 45-55psi that doesn't dip when you crack the throttle. Don't worry about checking flow just yet...
Most fuel additives separate water from the gas. There are 2 types (coalescing and emulsifying) and it's important to know which.
Coalescing just separates fuel and water, but where does the water go? It goes to the bottom of the tank where the gas pick up is
It is meant to use when you have a coalescing filter inline that you can drain the water from. Typically for diesel fuel systems. If you use it in your gas vehicle, you'll be sucking straight water
Emulsifying additive basically
absorbs the water so it will mix with the gas and be burned in the engine. Gas engines can digest quite a bit of water and run ok. It can even keep them cleaner
The reason for that diatribe^^^^ is which one did you use?? A diesel fuel additive could cause you issues.
Spark: Most intermittent problems are electrical, and I think yours is too
You'll need to see if you are getting spark and if it's at the right
time while it's running ****ty. I find it easier to start at the spark plugs and work back through the system. A systematic approach is
critical to make diagnosis work. Lets do a visual first.
Pull the plugs, do they look OK? post pics, because too clean can be a problem too. Are the tips screwed on tight, gapped well? worn?
Check the high tension wires, cracked, arcing, not screwed in the coil all the way?
Check the coils, mounting bolts corroded? tight? Unbolt them and see. plugs and terminals clean? take them apart and look. You can even spray with carb cleaner (but electrical cleaner is better) I don't suggest dielectric grease there. It's an insulator and will make a bad connection worse.
Wiring, are the coil primary wires discolored? brittle? pull back the harness cover as far as you can.
Well get into testing the coils later, right now stick with visual. This post is way too long and my wife wants to go to happy hour:eagerness: