Silverrider
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Have you tried Seafoam ? This one member uses it for every thing.
Replacing intake gaskets (DIY TUTORIAL)
- Thread starter MrDrumngun
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Have you tried Seafoam ? This one member uses it for every thing.
Remove the bulb... problem solved.
Dobe1
Well-known member
Buy the book, problems solved:
BuellyBagger
Well-known member
As long as the take all of his b.s.. off these threads!
Another theory is there is a crack in manifold I was not able to notice. The crack gap raises with temperature and that is why error 34 appears on hot engine. RPM drops when I spray brake cleaner on manifold because of it cools it down and reduces crack size.
TPEHAK, I assume that the problem here is the 5/16" washer. When you added it, you are not allowing the intake gasket to do its job, which is to squish and seal. Also remember that the washer is going to expand with heat and give more space for external air to enter. Remove the 5/16" washer, assemble everything back together, and the problem may disappear.
I already tried it. The issue is when I torque the flange screws to 10.8-13.6 Nm according service manual they bow around those blue gaskets and not able to touch the mating surface. That is why I always used those black gaskets because of they fit good without bowing the flanges. But last time I installed the black gaskets it did not fix the issue, that is why I decided to try those blue gaskets again. They even are slightly bowed right now with those washers because of the washers are thin. Even there is a small gap it should be filled with Hylomar I applied. So I believe the gaskets are sealed perfectly and probably previous time those black gaskets I installed were sealed perfectly and the issue is somewhere else.
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Tbone
Well-known member
I think the only way to truly pronounce someone's motor DOA would require a compression with a leak down test? These motor's like any other high compression performance air cooled motor are pron to having a lot of carbon build up especially with the ethanol fuel that is unfortunately mostly the only available. This carbon build up can definitely in itself wreak havoc on the performance and running characteristics of this motor especially when it gets hot with that much carbon built up.
Chicknstripn
Well-known member
You are a total head case!
You know your valve seats aren't working as they should, is it your fault or Buell engineering? No matter what anyone says the problems with your bike will never be YOUR FAULT.
You say Buell is unreliable junk but you continue to "expertly" work on yours, in ways that are not recommended by members of this forum and the service manual, with NO success.
I've been a member of this forum for over 5years and you are the only nut case that constantly refuses to take the advice of those THAT ARE TRULY MORE KNOLEDGEABLE THEN YOU CONCERNING A BUELL MOTORCYCLE and blame your issues on your motorcycle.
You know your heads and valves are your underlining problem but you refuse to address it.
The problem here is not the reliability of the BUELL but the lack of responsibility of the BUELL owner.
We all make mistakes.
You've made some
I've made some
Problem is you refuse to admit when youre wrong.
You are not a responsible BUELL owner.
Either Get rid of your bike, or get your heads reworked(mating surfaces, valves, the whole nine), admit you DON'T know everything and get on with your life.
This crap you keep posting is getting boarderline psychotic!
Get the bike fixed right or get rid of the bike and move on with your life.
You've lost all credibility as a competent Buell owner.
I followed your advise and installed gaskets with Hylomar and it had not fixed the issue. I am actually surprised it does not work, because of Hylomar advertisement says "Just Effing Work!". So probably it may leak somewhere else, maybe manifold is cracked, or maybe cylinder head is cracked. Another possible reason is it can suck air through the throttle baffle bearings, or through the IAC housing gasket (but I replaced this gasket), or through injectors o-rings (but I replaced them too).
Today I captured the video where I'm spraying carburetor cleaned on the throttle body so you can see what is going on with motorcycle. You also can see how nice the gaskets sit on their places, even if there is a micro gap it should be filled with Hylomar. I even can see some blue Hylomar all way around the gaskets perimeter.
As you can see RPM drops after a few seconds after spraying. I found this test on Twinmotorcycles site here https://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/movies.asp?cid=10&aid=335
Not only me, even lunaticfringe says Buell motor is junk, I believe he knows what he is talking about, I just agree with him.
Today I captured the video where I'm spraying carburetor cleaned on the throttle body so you can see what is going on with motorcycle. You also can see how nice the gaskets sit on their places, even if there is a micro gap it should be filled with Hylomar. I even can see some blue Hylomar all way around the gaskets perimeter.
As you can see RPM drops after a few seconds after spraying. I found this test on Twinmotorcycles site here https://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/movies.asp?cid=10&aid=335
Not only me, even lunaticfringe says Buell motor is junk, I believe he knows what he is talking about, I just agree with him.
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No. Lunatic never said Buell motors were junk. He says your motor is junk.
Maybe he's right, maybe he's wrong, but it's nice to know you actually read a response. Maybe you just like messing with your bike? Cool! I get it, I do too. But I don't post the play by play of every nut turned and I like actually riding it too.
Try that. There's nothing stopping you from riding your bike and enjoying the scenery. Post about that instead.
Maybe he's right, maybe he's wrong, but it's nice to know you actually read a response. Maybe you just like messing with your bike? Cool! I get it, I do too. But I don't post the play by play of every nut turned and I like actually riding it too.
Try that. There's nothing stopping you from riding your bike and enjoying the scenery. Post about that instead.
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user_deleted
Well-known member
Not only me, even lunaticfringe says Buell motor is junk, I believe he knows what he is talking about, I just agree with him.
NEVER EVER said that. i said YOUR motor is garbage from the gallons of additives/cleaners/miracle chemicals you've subjected that poor thing to...plus the endless fiddling in all sorts of manner.
oh.....forgot to mention: you have at least 2 partially collapsed valve lifters and a cracked cylinder head. i can hear it from southern PA.
NEVER EVER said that. i said YOUR motor is garbage from the gallons of additives/cleaners/miracle chemicals you've subjected that poor thing to...plus the endless fiddling in all sorts of manner.
oh.....forgot to mention: you have at least 2 partially collapsed valve lifters and a cracked cylinder head. i can hear it from southern PA.
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Glws
Silverrider
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njloco
Well-known member
This says it all ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^!
T,
"My motor was designed and built by Buell, this unit is not special unit. Fuel additives just clean it, they do not ruin it."
Apparently they aren't working !
T,
"My motor was designed and built by Buell, this unit is not special unit. Fuel additives just clean it, they do not ruin it."
Apparently they aren't working !
njloco
Well-known member
I do have a question and I think I asked this before. Years ago, we would pour water down the throat of a carburator while it was on fast idle and already warmed up, this would get rid of the carbon build up, through water blasting. So the question is, is it possible to do this with a XB motor ?
Most modern motors seem to be designed to get rid of carbon build up during a good highway run or opening it up once in awhile so, the above mentioned old school method may have been over looked.
Most modern motors seem to be designed to get rid of carbon build up during a good highway run or opening it up once in awhile so, the above mentioned old school method may have been over looked.
user_deleted
Well-known member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
kenny: that's an old-school remedy/maintenance procedure much along the lines of gently fluffing bonami type scouring powder into the air intake of a diesel after a fresh rebuild to speed up the process of seating the rings into the cross-hatched cylinder walls. the water/alcohol treatment if done correctly and with common sense does in fact steam-clean combustion chambers and has been in usage in one form or another for probably 90 years now.
on the other hand this TEABAG clown has a multitude of internal motor problems. listen to the latest vid he posted up and see my remarks. one of his many issues is sludge and "muck" build up on intake valve stems, valve heads and valve seat areas. all the steam cleaning in the world won't resolve it. and i know precisely how all these terminal events are occurring in his motor.
kenny: that's an old-school remedy/maintenance procedure much along the lines of gently fluffing bonami type scouring powder into the air intake of a diesel after a fresh rebuild to speed up the process of seating the rings into the cross-hatched cylinder walls. the water/alcohol treatment if done correctly and with common sense does in fact steam-clean combustion chambers and has been in usage in one form or another for probably 90 years now.
on the other hand this TEABAG clown has a multitude of internal motor problems. listen to the latest vid he posted up and see my remarks. one of his many issues is sludge and "muck" build up on intake valve stems, valve heads and valve seat areas. all the steam cleaning in the world won't resolve it. and i know precisely how all these terminal events are occurring in his motor.
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