BuellyBagger
Well-known member
/\lmao
Replacing intake gaskets (DIY TUTORIAL)
- Thread starter MrDrumngun
- Start date
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The problem with those clamps is they are too thin. They are capable to hold only about 30-50 kg clamping force without permanent deforming. It looks like Buell has very limited space in those area, and they can not just simply do these clamps thicker and bigger, it would lead them to redesign this engine area and increasing developing cost, and they decided so settle on this crappy design. So this is one more weak place in this motorcycle.
rchuff
Well-known member
lmfao!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! laughed so hard I blacked out!!!!!
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Silverrider
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rchuff
Well-known member
10-4 to that John! Lol!!
Dobe1
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Now that’s funny:
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That there is some funny shiznit
Silverrider
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TeaBag!!!!
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Ha. Yes. The T bag. Too funny
El_Beardo
Member
So just gonna ask because I am legit confused and not sure if being trolled. Will the blue gaskets actually stress the steel intake manifold flanges?
njloco
Well-known member
That tea bag commercial was really funny !
El_Beardo
Member
Confirming your own answer doesn't count as secondary validation.
*My experience* has been that when replacing the intake seals with the James blue gaskets (with the flange) is that when you replace with those, without rotating the engine, it is very tricky to get them in place. When I did it (without rotating the engine) the fit was very tight and I could not verify the seals were in correctly. So, I went back to the stock seals.
The flanges should not bend unless you over torque them, regardless of seal type/brand, etc. I just did them snug/finger tight with a touch of blue locktite on the threads (probably unnecessary) to prevent the nuts and bolts from backing off due to engine vibration.
The flanges should not bend unless you over torque them, regardless of seal type/brand, etc. I just did them snug/finger tight with a touch of blue locktite on the threads (probably unnecessary) to prevent the nuts and bolts from backing off due to engine vibration.
So, you're saying the flanges are designed to bend???
Or that the torque specified in the service manual is incorrect???
Normally, I'd doubt the service manual to be incorrect, but the whole oil drain plug torque spec fiasco is giving me second thoughts.
The flanges will not bend with correct size gaskets at any torque because of correct size gasket are thin enough to be compressed by flange. Flange will rest on engine surface with correct size gasket. Blue gasket is thicker and flange bend around the blue gasket before you torque it to specified force. Flange will rest on blue gasket without touching engine surface.
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Did you rotate your engine to install the new seals and torque the intake fasteners ? If so, how did you get a torque wrench in there to do that?
Next time, I'll probably just rotate the engine and do base gaskets, PCV grommets, and all the other items that are more easily done during a rotate.
Next time, I'll probably just rotate the engine and do base gaskets, PCV grommets, and all the other items that are more easily done during a rotate.
I did not rotate engine to replace gaskets. I used toque wrench to feel torque and then replicated torque by memory with conventional wrench. There is no space for torque wrench. Currently I use custom flanges and I torqued them just to be snug enough without torque wrench.
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Ok, so you did it like me with a “calibrated feel” lol
