Replacing intake gaskets (DIY TUTORIAL)

[Silverrider]

 

[njloco]

This says it all ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^!

T,
"My motor was designed and built by Buell, this unit is not special unit. Fuel additives just clean it, they do not ruin it."

Apparently they aren't working !

 

[njloco]

I do have a question and I think I asked this before. Years ago, we would pour water down the throat of a carburator while it was on fast idle and already warmed up, this would get rid of the carbon build up, through water blasting. So the question is, is it possible to do this with a XB motor ?

Most modern motors seem to be designed to get rid of carbon build up during a good highway run or opening it up once in awhile so, the above mentioned old school method may have been over looked.

 

[user_deleted]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
kenny: that's an old-school remedy/maintenance procedure much along the lines of gently fluffing bonami type scouring powder into the air intake of a diesel after a fresh rebuild to speed up the process of seating the rings into the cross-hatched cylinder walls. the water/alcohol treatment if done correctly and with common sense does in fact steam-clean combustion chambers and has been in usage in one form or another for probably 90 years now.
on the other hand this TEABAG clown has a multitude of internal motor problems. listen to the latest vid he posted up and see my remarks. one of his many issues is sludge and "muck" build up on intake valve stems, valve heads and valve seat areas. all the steam cleaning in the world won't resolve it. and i know precisely how all these terminal events are occurring in his motor.

 

[Silverrider]

I do have a question and I think I asked this before. Years ago, we would pour water down the throat of a carburator while it was on fast idle and already warmed up, this would get rid of the carbon build up, through water blasting. So the question is, is it possible to do this with a XB motor ?

Most modern motors seem to be designed to get rid of carbon build up during a good highway run or opening it up once in awhile so, the above mentioned old school method may have been over looked.

Kenny, back up the truck here, Fix the problem, if you just remove it it will be back again and again, As Tbag has been told many times, But he is in denial.

 

[TPEHAK]

I installed breather reroute and cleaned the valves, so now they should be fine.

 

[Tbone]

Gumout fuel system cleaner in the tank, and only one time needed for Gumout spray down the throttle body while running are my chemicals of choice. I continuously use Gumout fuel system cleaner almost every tank, about 1 to 3 oz's with premium fuel. Why, because ethanol will make the engine Gunk up like this one has and make it run like a pop corn machine that surges at idle when it gets hot. Some others I know like to use seafoam which does nothing for me, or techron, stabil, Lucas, etc.. I do not have any experience with. I have also used 2 cycle oil for air cooled as well as Marvels which do have an undeniable major positive impact on the running of this motor. In the old days on several occasions have poured Marvels down a few carbs, plumbs of white smoke everywhere. I think the Throttle body of the Buell gets too hot for most additives and can make the problem with ethanol in the fuel even worse? Not sure which additives can take the high temps that this motor creates, maybe someone here can get a metal pan and torch some additives to see which ones can withstand the heat? I would try but we just had over 200 bales of hay delivered and my lovely wife insists on storing inside the shop.

 

[Tbone]

I installed breather reroute and cleaned the valves, so now they should be fine.

Your Buell will be happy now! Do what you can to best keep it clean. I do like the breather reroute because cold starting/running seems to be much better and I actually do not warm it up enough because it just runs so well, especially when everything stays clean. I also have a K&N filter which seems to work well with the breather reroute? Not sure if the 09 Uly is any different, but I have only had to do a tps reset once, when the ECM was replaced. It has been nothing but reliable and smooth running, unless I get bad gas, then it starts and runs like crap and I add a few more oz of fuel system cleaner and keep on runnning.

 

[munkiep]

wow, i had read and re-read this topic several times several months ago. just tonight i tore all the plastics down and loosened the manifold bolts, then got to a stopping point (those coil bolts are being stubborn), and got on here to read once again, only to see this comedy that had started since i had last checked this thread
on this topic, i was debating using a gasket sealer, some sites suggest motor oil (though i know it isnt a sealer), some RTV, and i even saw someone use hi temp bearing grease. I got the genuine james seals from dennis kirk, i dont know if there is one i should avoid using, or avoid using any sealer all together

 

[BuellyBagger]

wow, i had read and re-read this topic several times several months ago. just tonight i tore all the plastics down and loosened the manifold bolts, then got to a stopping point (those coil bolts are being stubborn), and got on here to read once again, only to see this comedy that had started since i had last checked this thread
on this topic, i was debating using a gasket sealer, some sites suggest motor oil (though i know it isnt a sealer), some RTV, and i even saw someone use hi temp bearing grease. I got the genuine james seals from dennis kirk, i dont know if there is one i should avoid using, or avoid using any sealer all together

I just used the gaskets. Made sure to evenly tighten the flanges side to side and gave the manifold a few wiggles throughout the tightening process to make sure that the seals did not get pinched or bound up and everything set into place properly. All went well, no more leak.

 

[Cooter]

I have replaced a ton of intake gaskets in Buells and Sportsters. I have never used a sealer, nor have I ever had an issue with them leaking after replacement.

IMHO, there's no sealer on them from the factory so it makes sense they were designed not to need it.

 

[TPEHAK]

Oil makes sense because it should help to slide the gasket and to set it into the place.

 

[munkiep]

i took you guys' advice and went without any sealer. upon pulling my coil and wires out, i believe i found why my bike doesnt want to stay idling when cold and loss of top end power...

 

[njloco]

Yeah, from the looks of it, I'd say they're due for replacement.

The only one I have any sympathy for is Tbone, 200 bales of hay, that makes me tired just thinking about it !

 

[Tbone]

Thanks njloco, yes my wife is an alpaca rancher by night and works for ATT by day. Her midlife crisis I think. We did have help, 2 highschool kids, and 2 of my son's, so there was 5 of us but I was the oldest.

 

[njloco]

My friend owns a small ranch outside of San Antonio. Though he usually grows his own hay when mother nature cooperates otherwise, he has to buy it by the truck load. He mostly buys those huge round hay bales, still a lot of work !

 

[BuellyBagger]

My friend owns a small ranch outside of San Antonio. Though he usually grows his own hay when mother nature cooperates otherwise, he has to buy it by the truck load. He mostly buys those huge round hay bales, still a lot of work !

I've heard of guys clear up here selling hay to folks in texas. I guess its good money when they cant grow enough down south. Its got to cost those ranchers a fortune! explains why all the farmers up here have $70k pickups...

 

[Tbone]

Well most Alpacas eat orchard grass, so my wife gets it mixed with alfalfa. Texas does grow a variety, but it is hard to grow orchard grass near here. She and other ranchers will bulk order orchard from Colorado for about $12.50 for a bail. The previous 3 years it was a semi truck with a freight trailer delivered to my drive way, and the Orchard hay was excellent, until there was a falling out between one of the ranchers and our supplier. Now we have not been receiving excellent hay anymore, and continue to try to buy hay from our original supplier.

 

[TPEHAK]

I performed quick stress analysis, and I was right, the clamp will not survive with those Blue thick gaskets under the screw torque from service manual, it will bend over and will be permanently deformed passing Yield strength. Do not use the Blue thick gaskets with new long(2009-2010) clamps. Maybe they work OK with old short clamps, but not with the new clamps.

The flange bolt minimal torque according service manual is 96 in=lbs. According bolt clamping force calculator the clamping force on one side of the flange will be more than 1500 lbs (700 kg) https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/torque_calc.htm

And here is stress analysis result with this force. For stress analysis I used the strongest steel I found in the analyzing tool library (normalized 4340 steel, Young modulus 205000 N/mm2, Yield strength 710 N/mm2). And even this material has not survived and permanently deformed according the stress analysis.

As you can see maximal stress in the flange is significantly over the what part is capable to hold.

So do not use blue think gaskets, install original thin black gaskets so the flange will compress the thin gasket and will rest on the mating surface, not on the gasket.

Or you can try to use washers with blue gaskets like I did to offset the flanges and to prevent bending the flanges and to compress the blue gaskets just enough to seal the faces.

 

[user_deleted]

I performed quick stress analysis, and I was right,
nice work TEABAG.