snapped PCV - fix, replacement, etc

[metalmania]

I snapped one of my PCVs rotating the engine :sorrow:

HD, locally and online, is on back order of the part (17607-00Y) until the end of July. :down:


Any cross-referenced alternative to this part? Any way to use some type of goop to seal rubber hose to the plastic on the PCV, as a temp fix?


Thanks in advance for any guidance/info.

 

[user_deleted]

don't know where you are but system shows several to be had at new castle h-d in western PA.....manchester h-d in the UK....a few other dealerships. they're a bit expensive.
do this in the interim: remove the broken pipe from the hose....clean pipe end and housing end with brake cleaner or alcohol....place JB weld onto the end of pipe and housing....press together....put a coating of JB weld around the perimeter of the break. jury rig something to apply pressure to the joint and let sit 24 hours. works like a champ IF you reinstall the hose with a drop of oil inside it and gently twist on. this pipe almost always snaps off at the base if you don't use a twisting motion first to loosen up the hose...then continue to twist and pull hose off. gentleness is the key.

 

[TPEHAK]

You can try to glue it with PVC pluming tubes glue. Maybe it will be strong enough to hold it. That glue melts plastic, so it might bond.

 

[TPEHAK]

You also can try dichloroethane if you can find it. It welds plastic too. Very good stuff, but as all good old stuff is prohibited and hard to find. The valve half's are welded with dichloroethane by the way.


JB Weld is just epoxy, and epoxy does not like to stick to plastic good enough, especially on small areas. Also the temperature will just destroy the epoxy and vibration will just delaminate the joint.

 

[njloco]

All depends on which epoxy product he uses.

See Teabag, your not an expert in everything and now you've entered my area of expertise. I know of metal type epoxies that will stick to pretty much everything, even glass, when applied correctly. The problem is that those types of epoxies are expensive but they last forever, as long as they are kept in a clean environment.

 

[mmcn49]

TPEHAK - Why do you continue to mislead people? What perverse pleasure do you get from doing this?

Metalmania - Do what John said, (L.F.) with a couple added suggestions: Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol are pretty cold solvents and may not kill the oil on the plastic PVC housing. Brake cleaner is a hot solvent. It cleans great and leaves no residue but can melt plastics. Don't use to much when cleaning plastic. Gasoline or Coleman stove fuel also works well. Pour a little into a container and clean the parts. There may be some residue left which can be cleaned by wiping down the pieces with alcohol.

Give the pieces a little "Tooth" by sanding the OD at the break with 150-180 grit. As John said put a coating of JB Weld around the outer circumference on both sides of the break. This provides "Web" additional strength. When setting the pieces up it may be helpful to slide a bolt or wooden dowel close to the PVC's ID into the outlet port.

I'm a retired Marine Engineer. During my career I've used several types of epoxies, (Splash Zone, Belzona, Thortex, Marine-Tex and others) to keep things going until we could make permanent repairs. If properly prepped they work great. I served with an Army Aviation unit in Vietnam. Our birds got shot up on a regular basis. If nothing mechanical or structural were hit, we glued aluminum patches over bullet & shrapnel holes using A-4 epoxy onto the fuselage and tail-booms. Lots of vibration but they stayed on.

 

[TPEHAK]

You'd better be sure the epoxy glue you are going to use withstand temperature over 250 C. You can give it a try, but my bet is on it will fail. Epoxy will not work well for small surface area on plastic piece under vibration and heat.

Epoxy works well on your applications thou, but this situation is different.

 

[njloco]

Really, how do you know, I've repaired ship diesel engines with epoxies that threw a rod out of the side of the engine, you could drive a couple of Buells through the hole but I doubt that your head would fit. Try to come to grips with the fact that you don't know everything or is that anything or nothin? O.k. let's make it anything.

John has worked on more Buells than you have ever seen !

Mmcn49, which epoxy did you like best ?

 

[Cooter]

If your PCV valve sees 250*C, your name better be Icarus.

 

[TPEHAK]

Alright, alright, let him do it with epoxy, I'm actually wondering what will happen. But please report back how it works.

If I would have nothing, but epoxy glue, I would put reinforcement fabric around the joint. In this case at least it will not crack during attaching the hose to the valve.

 

[njloco]

We all thank you for your permission !

 

[user_deleted]

If your PCV valve sees 250*C, your name better be Icarus.

shaughn: it's just more bull**** he's slinging on here with his incessant trolling. if a buell/sportster rocker box cover sees over 500 degrees F i want to be there in person to witness the carnage. like Ed said nothing more than another simple 3-post thread that he's trying to destroy. sick of it.

 

[TPEHAK]

But please remember, if it will fail, you will be responsible for this. You've been warned.

 

[metalmania]

don't know where you are but system shows several to be had at new castle h-d in western PA.....manchester h-d in the UK....a few other dealerships. they're a bit expensive.
do this in the interim: remove the broken pipe from the hose....clean pipe end and housing end with brake cleaner or alcohol....place JB weld onto the end of pipe and housing....press together....put a coating of JB weld around the perimeter of the break. jury rig something to apply pressure to the joint and let sit 24 hours. works like a champ IF you reinstall the hose with a drop of oil inside it and gently twist on. this pipe almost always snaps off at the base if you don't use a twisting motion first to loosen up the hose...then continue to twist and pull hose off. gentleness is the key.

I had left a message with New Castle earlier this morning but haven't heard from them yet. Looks like the online count shows qty 1 in stock, so i went ahead and placed the order. Hopefully that "one" is actually available. Hate to wait until late July to get the bike back together.

I think i have a tube of JB Weld here in the garage somewhere. I'll try to see if i can get that stem successfully onto the PCV.


Thanks all for chiming in with ideas - much appreciated. :up:

 

[TPEHAK]

 

[mmcn49]

Mmcn49, which epoxy did you like best ?

Splash Zone and Belzona. Some grades of Belzona are ABS type approved which is important on inspected vessels. Splash Zone is not but I found it works great on aluminum plate.

 

[TPEHAK]

I use laminating epoxies for vacuum infusion for gliders wings.

 

[mmcn49]

I think i have a tube of JB Weld here in the garage somewhere. I'll try to see if i can get that stem successfully onto the PCV. Thanks all for chiming in with ideas - much appreciated. :up:

Just follow our suggestions and keep the new one for a spare in case the other one fails.

 

[njloco]

I still have some Bezona from the mid 70's, still good. I've done all kinds of repairs for the Navy which was top secret back then, oil co's, power plants including nukes, pump co's, food and drug industry etc. I was one of the original few application specialists that started that wave back then. Lots of fun and laughs, especially when their eyes opened wide because it worked so well.

Teabag, when it comes to you, you should be showing Jeramiha's horse's ass !

 

[Cooter]

It will work out fine MetalMania, If you have to ride it's not the end of the world to just run it like that, but I'd put a rag around it to keep the mess down.

You can see use Buell-folk are a passionate bunch....