XB12R cafe conversion

[nicholas900]

After a bunch of air box mockups with cardboard and plaster..... I couldn't find a proportional look. The workable space was just a little too short. So I am finishing up new tail section.

This one is set back 1 1/2" and lowered 3/4". It don't sound like much, but it made all the difference. To lower it I notched the front tube to clear the shock and filled it in w/ 1/8" flat steel.

Kinda sucks, but if I didn't change it I would be kicking myself later. I also took the opportunity to use thicker steel for the new frame hubs.

Still have to fully weld it, just tacked up right now and the temporary supports still in place. Here is what the joints look like before welding. Fresh out of my notcher....

Should be able to reuse my battery box and shock reservoir mount. Gonna TIG this one and leave the welds natural.

Two steps forward, two steps back......

 

[vtech007]

Nah - I'd still call it progress ... and you're so right, way better to do it now, than finish it and regret not doing it. So, very worth the refab.

 

[nicholas900]

^ Agree. Nothing worse than feeling like I rushed something and could have made it better. No hurry here. I enjoy this stuff.

Got tail subframe version 2.0 all welded up.

 

[nicholas900]

I also noticed on the tank mock up that I could get a better look if I scooted up the electronics a few inches, and lowered the ecm a bit. So I rebuilt the electronics plate. I didn't cover that yet. So I took a few pictures along the way.

Using my old plate as a template I traced it out and transferred it onto the steel. Some of the holes are "half in-half out" so those need to be done first. Some day I'll get a plasma cutter. Until then... a bi-metal hole saw and electric box punches to the job.

Then I scribe the design with a cut off wheel. To keep the lines straight a piece of steel clamped to the piece helps and give me something to follow.

All cut out....

Then I bent it to follow the frame.

I split a piece of 7/8" tube to clear the top motor mount. It also make it stronger. Still needs a little bit of trimming at this point.

I made some brackets for the horn and ecm. Inside the square mount I located the kill switch. The fuse boxes will slide onto the two studs sticking up on top.

Here's how it looks on the bike.

I should be good to go now. I have the tank all mocked up and I'm really happy with it. But that pic will have to wait.

 

[Big twin]

I have the tank all mocked up and I'm really happy with it. But that pic will have to wait.

Teeeaaasseee !!!! lol

 

[nicholas900]

Ha ha. I can give a little hint. The air box and seat cowl will be aluminum. Highly polished aluminum that is.

 

[nicholas900]

Still haven't figured out how to quote a post here. Wolfo68 said...

"If you're not used to electrical work this is a big headache. When I did mine to relocate the front electronics I probably stared at the mess of wires for at least two hours."

And he is correct. This was a huge task. I am an electrician by trade and have alot of experience in this department from my job and wiring guitars and amps as a hobby. I looked at the mess of wires for a few days to plan out where they all had to go. This would not be a good first go at rewiring a bike. There is a lot to it, and the last thing you want is an unreliable bike. It does take some practice.

 

[heagachongoose]

wiring guitars and amps as a hobby.

I think we just became best friends I dabble in the art of luithery and have modded a few of my previously owned amps. My love for my music toys are right on par with my bikes. Id be interested to see some of your work!

But anways. Back to relevant conversation..... Aluminum air box and seat cowl?.... Not sure how I feel about that one? Lol. Although based off your previous work im sure it will turn out fantastic. Hell you could probably make the damn thing out of pizza and corn chips and it'd still look great.

Props on what you have done thus far. +1 good sir

 

[nicholas900]

^^ Guitar Build

 

[olgabuell]

You do great work man, I dig it!

 

[wolfo68]

This was a huge task. I am an electrician by trade and have alot of experience in this department from my job and wiring guitars and amps as a hobby. I looked at the mess of wires for a few days to plan out where they all had to go. This would not be a good first go at rewiring a bike. There is a lot to it, and the last thing you want is an unreliable bike. It does take some practice.

Highlight with your cursor and click the quote button above the message text box, it will quote what you have highlighted.

It was my first time doing a harness, (I had spare harnesses so I gave it a shot) it took me 2 days to get everything the length I wanted and I wound up not liking how it turned out so I bought an S harness off of a friend for like 50 since I was just relocating the electronics to the tail anyway.

 

[nicholas900]

Highlight with your cursor and click the quote button above the message text box, it will quote what you have highlighted

Thanks!

 

[nicholas900]

Now I'm working on the under seat pan. I had to cut out a notch for the wiring and for the shock reservoir to pass through.

This was a "half in half out" hole. To do these kind of holes I clamp it in a drill press.... and go real slow.

Cuts out a nice clean hole. This gives me a nice radius. I'll still remove more.

Then I hook it up to my little buddy.....

After some welding....

 

[nicholas900]

 

[nicholas900]

I frenched in another tail light and cut the battery box and shock reservoir mount out of my first tail and welded it all in. Then flopped in all my wires. My next job will be sorting and securing all the wiring.

Then I made a licence plate/directional bracket. I tried a bunch of locations. Think I like this the best.

 

[Anotherusrname]

Great work!
Looks like it could have come from the factory that way!
Looking forward to seeing what you do with the air box.

I have been thinking of upgrading my welder to the Millermatic 140 and wondering what your opinion of it is.

 

[nicholas900]

Well I like it. I upgraged to it about 6 months ago. Replaced an old Hobart. The Hobart had four clicks for voltage. The Miller has a continuously variable knob. It makes fine tuning it easier for me.

It also has an auto set feature. Honestly I thought it was gimmicky. But I use it all the time almost exclusively. It really works great. In case you didn't know.... the auto set is engaged when you turn the top speed knob all the way to the right. Then select the size welding wire you are using. Now the voltage knob becomes a material thickness adjustment. It essentially becomes a one knob welder and nothing could be easier. I thought I would never use that feature..... but I use it all the time.

This pic shows how the knobs function in conventional mode or auto set. As long as you don't need to weld real thick steel often, I think the 140 is pretty handy. I've welded 1/4" a few times with it.

 

[nicholas900]

Little more progress. I made up two new battery cables. The positive lead goes right to the starter. I had to remove the rear shock and fan to get the cable out, as well as the pulley cover to access the nut in the starter. There is a hold down bracket behind the fan that keeps the cable and a wiring harness from touching the rear head and exhaust. The negative lead goes to the rear engine mount. I'm using that as a star grounding scheme. I used the bolts from the plate bracket double as cable hold downs.

 

[Anotherusrname]

Thanks for the write up.
I have been reading up on the Miller and was already sold.
Your write up backed up everything else I was reading. Thanks!

Nice clean job routing the wiring!

 

[OldGeezer]

Looking great nicholas! If I may make a suggestion, put some soft rubber weather stripping or slit a small diameter piece of hose to cover the edge of the hole where your wires run through the under-seat pan, it'll protect the wires and shock hose from wear at that point.

Definitely following this thread with great interest.

Cheers