Xb12ss dead spot at 4k-4500 any other tunes out there

[lowkey]

Joejo, here is where I'd start for diagnoses when you receive the replacement:

- Go into ECMDroid and make note of AFV value and TPS value, double check for codes.
- In ECMDroid go into settings and make sure "enable EEPROM burning is checked and that "optimized" burning is unchecked (you want a full .xpr burn to flash over data that is possibly corrupt.)
- Re-flash the full "race" .xpr EEPROM file
- Change AFV to 100 and perform a "TPS reset" for your bike. (hopefully you have been performing these on previous flashes)
- Take it out right away before it is warmed up, try your best to notice that flat spot and anything relevant that may give a clue to its cause.
- The bike will need a "run in" of about 20 to 50 miles for the tune to work itself out and give a change on the AFV (you want to see between 90-110).
- When you come back from your ride immediately check the engine temp values and make note, also is the fan running on shut off? try to see how long it runs.

Make note of all these things before and after and anything you may notice, it will all be a huge help in finding the cause.

 

[Joejo]

Thanks lowkey, I'll Def try my best to provide my results....so long as I don't mess them up. Haha

 

[lowkey]

No problem! We'll get your problem figured out so you can experience what all you've been missing with that dead spot! Probably will end up with a newfound love of the bike once it is right!

 

[Chicknstripn]

Roger that. Anyone near west pennsylvania that wants to deal with this bike.

Also how would a specific gear make a bike feel like a fuel issue? I'd think it would make some bad noises or shift badly or something else.

If a shift fork, gear or any other associated item of the transmission that actuates a specific gear is worn or chipped you could experience a slight skip in said gear that feels like a fueling hiccup or whatever you want to call it.

When I rebuilt my transmission two of my shift forks(transmission has 3) were worn and third gear, along with the associated cog, had slight chips in them. This was enough to make the bike skip out of gear ever so slightly. The feeling was like the engine fueling or ignition spark skipping for a split second. Like I stated earlier at first I thought it was a fueling issue right around 3500 to 4000 rpm. Then I isolated the problem to only occuring in third gear. That was when I realized a transmission build was inevitable.

 

[njloco]

Hey chicken strip, was that a buell you had the warn tranny parts in if yes, how many miles was on it ?

 

[Chicknstripn]

I only speak Buell
Approximately 37k

 

[Cooter]

Joejo, here is where I'd start for diagnoses when you receive the replacement:

- Go into ECMDroid and make note of AFV value and TPS value, double check for codes.
- In ECMDroid go into settings and make sure "enable EEPROM burning is checked and that "optimized" burning is unchecked (you want a full .xpr burn to flash over data that is possibly corrupt.)
- Re-flash the full "race" .xpr EEPROM file
- Change AFV to 100 and perform a "TPS reset" for your bike. (hopefully you have been performing these on previous flashes)
- Take it out right away before it is warmed up, try your best to notice that flat spot and anything relevant that may give a clue to its cause.
- The bike will need a "run in" of about 20 to 50 miles for the tune to work itself out and give a change on the AFV (you want to see between 90-110).
- When you come back from your ride immediately check the engine temp values and make note, also is the fan running on shut off? try to see how long it runs.

Make note of all these things before and after and anything you may notice, it will all be a huge help in finding the cause.

Yep. Do that. Since the first thing you did was mess with the ECM, you'll need to get it back to where you started to diagnose the issue properly. Once you check for intake leaks and mechanical issues, check out this thread.
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?6723-For-those-with-a-hiccup-stutter-at-cruising
It's a Sticky for a reason:up:

 

[Joejo]

I had checked for intake leaks. I have alot of exp with turbo cars and trucks so I am fully aware of intake leaks. Haha

 

[Joejo]

What will changing the Afv to 100 do?

 

[Joejo]

Flashed a tune that buelltooth emailed me, ran fine with no deadspot. Afv was 90.3 no fan run on shutoff. Also no codes. This a.m. I went back in with ecm Droid just to look around and switched off all the check boxes for the exhaust valve. Not sure if that will cause any issues but I figured since I have the tune still in my email if I ruin anything I should be able to go back with no issues.

 

[lowkey]

What will changing the Afv to 100 do?

AFV set to 100 is like a reset for the ECM to learn and add or subtract to the new map, you must do this and it will teach you if the map needs fuel (101 and up)or less fuel (99 and down). If you reset this to 100 when trying a map and the afv stays close to 100 after 50 or more miles, it is a good starting point. You don't wan't to see less than 90 or more than 110 but it is fine to fluctuate between these high and low values day to day. If it is outside of this you need to actually change the fueling to get it as close to 100 as possible.

To clarify the AFV range is much wider than 90-110 but you wan't the maps fueling to put you in the middle.

When flashing a map you NEED to set that to 100 and do the TPS reset, if you do not the values from the bike the map came from will be what you are starting with. (AFV value stays inside ECM IIRC, TPS value changes from the map the bike came from)

Eventually it will balance out but if you are flashing maps and not doing this step you can't really judge the map because of this. For example if your AFV was 80 previously and you just flash a new map without AFV/TPS reset you are taking away 20% fuel from the map right off the bat. Most likely running like crap until you ride long enough that the ECM has a chance to add fuel again.

 

[Cooter]

Good for you! Glad you got the problem fixed.

 

[Joejo]

Ahhh I see. Thanks for the descriptive response. That makes complete sense now. I did a tps reset but not the Afv change to the new tune....

Should I do that? I only have about 10 miles on it...been raining so I didn't ride today.

 

[Cooter]

Yes. Always start a new tune with a TPS re-set and AFV at 100 for exactly the reasons lowkey spelled it out for you.

The new 'tune' (.xpr file) contains more than just fuel tune info. You should compare and re-check all of your settings in the ECM parameter section with the old one.