ZTL2 brake upgrade on STT

[lowkey]

So I've been looking to do this for a while now and I've read countless threads on what parts people used on different model bikes. Looks like most go with a 1125's brake line because of the bend at the bottom of the stock line on the ZTL (should be good for a bike with lower suspension than mine). Ulysses guys seem to go with a custom line or I've seen guys swap the cable ends so the 45 bend is at the lever... I hope to go this route for the STT depending on the MC I end up getting and maybe lower bars without the crossbar.

-So to those that have bought the ZTL2 new from HD, does it come with pads? I bought it this morning already, just want to know before it gets here.

-What MC did you decide to go with?

-What brake line did you decide to go with (taller suspension model) and did you run into issues with length and MC choice?

List of MC's I've read people have used.
-1125 Buell 14mm MC 9/16"
-Nissin 19mm radial MC
-GSXR 1000 radial MC
-Hayabusa (1997-2003) 16mm MC 5/8”
-Accossato radial master cylinder
-Yamaha R6 (06-07) Bembo radial MC (16mm?)
-Brembo RCS19
-2010 ZX-10 MC

I'm leaning toward the Hayabusa because supposedly you can use the buell lever on it and I'd like to have matching levers (shorties). Does anyone know if that is true for XB's or 1125's? Open to any other bike take-off options that are cheap as well like nissin's or brembo's off something else?

And lastly are people really paying $340 for the EBR finned 5mm rotor? Or was this cheaper at some point?

My rotor is good and I can only recall once or twice in the mountains when it was pulsing noticeably, so maybe just get it resurfaced with the updated EBR hardware?

 

[lowkey]

Wow 8 days and nobody has any insight huh?

Well... I got the caliper last night from HD in the mail. It does indeed come with pads! This makes it one hell of a deal considering I would of had to drop $100ish for them if I went with a used ZTL2.

Now I need to mount it and check brake line length to decide to stick with the stock one or get a straight ended one, possibly of different length.

Also still trying to decide what brake MC to go with. I'm still leaning to the Hayabusa (1997-2003) 16mm MC 5/8 but I have to keep the mirror mount on the clamp like our stock one is. I've found an aftermarket bracket that are for dirt bikes to mount a mirror off the clamp but they are for the clutch side. I won't know if it will work unless I buy the MC and measure the bolt clamp distance.
If anyone knows a good option to use that will let me keep the mirror perch please let me know.

 

[UMDterp13]

pads are only $45. lines are on ASB for the Ulysses and STT. I found one new unused for $25 for my Uly. it is an excellent upgrade. I put them on 12R, 9SX and a Uly along with the stock 1125.

 

[Negative]

That's a lot of useful info there along with that question ... I'm also surprised nobody chimed in with anything ... I've been looking into a ZTL2 conversion also but not actively ... it's something I've got planned way down the road after I'm satisfied that everything on my Buell has been rebuilt up to my snuff ...

I'm paying attention to this thread as well to see if anybody can chip in with something useful ...

 

[lowkey]

pads are only $45

Maybe so but the best options out there are much more than that, at least this way I can get it all dialed in on the bike and have an idea to compare to the stock pads.

lines are on ASB for the Ulysses and STT

What lines are you referring to using? stock ones of those models? I've got an STT, I'm not 100% until I mount it but length is a non issue, it's the 45 degree bends on the line that is not "ideal".

That's a lot of useful info there along with that question ... I'm also surprised nobody chimed in with anything ...

Thanks I try! Ha ha but really I've got all the info compiled to do this better than most. I just want feedback on MC choice ya know? I've done things and decided if it was worth while or if there was a better option or not in the past. I'd like to just weed out that stuff and make an informed decision to save time and money.

 

[Negative]

Thanks I try! Ha ha but really I've got all the info compiled to do this better than most. I just want feedback on MC choice ya know? I've done things and decided if it was worth while or if there was a better option or not in the past. I'd like to just weed out that stuff and make an informed decision to save time and money.

Roger that ... Saves the future mod'ers research time as well ... lol

 

[lowkey]

Here is the P/N on the caliper I purchased encase someone is looking for the same one. (black with machined ZTL2 logo)[up]

H1110.1AMZT or try HD-H1110.1AMZT

 

[raven]

iowkey, I used the nissin 19mm with the ZTL when I did my Lightning.Used a CRG shorty , as for lines I got one from a local race shop.Al at ASP was a great help.
When you get this done be CAREFULL, just after I did mine ,got caught short and flipped it end for end.

 

[Bullettooth023]

Thanks for the MC info. In the process of doing the upgrade to my XB.

 

[Bullettooth023]

looking around fleabay, gsxr MC's seem to be the cheapest.

 

[lowkey]

iowkey, I used the nissin 19mm with the ZTL when I did my Lightning.Used a CRG shorty

It's LowKey as in LowKeyPerformance.com and LowKeyComponents.com, both of which I have yet to do anything with... Haha anyway that nissin was my first choice but I'd like to try the 16mm non radial option as supposedly the levers interchange with a buell, which would be nice! Also not sure about the reservoir cup look but it's not a big deal. Would you try something different now that you've run that one or is it perfect feeling in your opinion? Thanks

Thanks for the MC info. In the process of doing the upgrade to my XB.

Been keeping this one under my hat until I decided to go with the new caliper/different MC setup, could save someone time and money, good deal! Complete take off ZTL2 front brake setup

 

[raven]

lowkey, sorry can,t type.If you can get a complete unit, saves a lot of time.
I would still go with the the nissin 19mm, switched to Lindal gold pads for better feel and went back to long CRG levers. For me this worked well because of problems with my right wrist and hand.
A few others no here have gone to a radial master with the 6 pot with good results.
Hope this helps.

 

[Negative]

The 1125 unit is a bolt on for the XB?? ... Genuine question ..

 

[d_adams]

^ Yes and no. The master cylinder will fit the bars, the caliper will fit the forks & rotor. The only issue I have is the brake line itself, the 1125 part is too short for my xb9 lightning with Pro-Taper bars. I figured I'd at least try the xb line, but with the bends at the banjo fittings, it's just not right. Roughly, it's 30" from the MC to the caliper if I follow the current mount location. I ordered some universal line and banjo fittings from the motorcycle superstore last night, ran about $75 or so to get new bolts, crush washers, banjo fittings and the line at the length I wanted. It's probably time to replace the xb9 stock line anyway, squeezing the lever makes the line move/flex quite a bit and no matter how much I've bled it out, it still goes to the bar. Bike stops just fine, but it's that whole flex and movement part that I don't like.
I'll probably try to score a better MC later with a remote reservoir, but it's not something I absolutely must have right now.

 

[lowkey]

The 1125 unit is a bolt on for the XB?? ... Genuine question ..

Some, maybe all 2010 models came with the ZTL2 stock. From the pictures it looks like they used the line with the 45 degree bends in them that they've been using on previous years.

 

[s0dhi]

Also still trying to decide what brake MC to go with. I'm still leaning to the Hayabusa (1997-2003) 16mm MC 5/8 but I have to keep the mirror mount on the clamp like our stock one is. I've found an aftermarket bracket that are for dirt bikes to mount a mirror off the clamp but they are for the clutch side. I won't know if it will work unless I buy the MC and measure the bolt clamp distance.
If anyone knows a good option to use that will let me keep the mirror perch please let me know.

What did you end up deciding with respect to the master cylinder? If you went with the Hayabusa part, do you happen to have a part number? I'm looking to start picking up some parts for a ZTL2 brake upgrade as well.

 

[lowkey]

Update:

So after sitting on this project for almost a year... I finely got around to picking up a master cylinder and odds and ends to get it done. I went with a 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa MC from eBay for $27.00.

Suzuki Hayabusa MC: 5/8" bore - 1999-2007

A few good reasons to go with this option is that it uses a 12mm banjo bolt so the stock brake line works, the brake light switch works to the stock wiring, and the stock Buell lever will work temporarily I say because there is about 1mm of play before the lever makes contact with the piston if you push the lever away from the bar. Stock handguards and hardware bolt right up. You will lose the mirror mount though.

I ordered a matching set of shorty levers for this MC off eBay for another $27.00. To solve the mirror mount issue I scoured the internet looking for options, there are quite a few cheap mounts that take up bar space that go between the controls and the MC but I wanted to keep it clean and run the back half of the MC clamp with a 10mm mirror option. I remembered that this half of the clamp is included if you buy the 19mm radial Nissin MC that lots of people go with for the swap but good luck finding one for sale on its own... I tracked one down from a japan website here . There is a couple others that are advertised for enduro bikes such as moose racing but at $25.00 I didn't want to take a chance of it not fitting as I couldn't find any measurments for it. I kept searching and found that bikemaster sells one exactly like the Nissin one listed on the Japanese site but has elongated holes for mounting so it should for sure work and at $10.00 shipped from a US website I feel it is my best option.

DRC option

Moose Racing option

silver enduro CNC option

Bikemaster T-2 option

While I did this upgrade I also ordered the EBR updated mounting hardware and took this time to sand he rotor so everything was fresh. One thing I want to share is my instructions were unclear if the old springs that go between the rotor and wheel need to be removed, I searched around and they DO need to be removed, only the brass washers should sit behind the rotor between the wheel. Make sure the rotor tab with the hole drilled in it is mounted in the spot where your valve stem comes out of your wheel for best weight balancing. (bottom right bolt in photo)

Since I have the STT and the stock brake line is longer than most XB's I took a chance to reuse it instead of a custom one, as you see I routed it the same as stock with the banjos the same as well. I was able to get the length I needed by unbolting the grommet behind the faring and braking the bottom rubber grommet loose from the hose that mounts onto the lower triple. From the lower triple mount the brake line goes up and around the outside of the fork tube right up into the new MC with plenty of slack to spare. I plan to try it like this and check for issues before I cut off the clued on rubber from the brake line that would have mounted behind the fairing and then just glue the black shielding that is loose that runs between those two grommets.

 

[lowkey]

s0dhi What did you end up deciding with respect to the master cylinder? If you went with the Hayabusa part, do you happen to have a part number? I'm looking to start picking up some parts for a ZTL2 brake upgrade as well.

Sorry for the long delay here is the Hayabusa info.

Suzuki OEM P/N: 5960024F00

 

[s0dhi]

Sorry for the long delay here is the Hayabusa info.

Suzuki OEM P/N: 5960024F00

No worries. Thanks for the reply and part number. [up]

 

[lowkey]

Here is the stock ZTL lever at rest.

Here it is if I push the lever out away from the grip showing the 1mm from piston.

Here is the brake switch pushing the lever against the piston as seen in the first photo. (at normal rest)

Here is how the original brake line hose sits, not to far out from the caliper.

Rubber grommet that I broke loose from the brake line sitting about 1" off from where it was glued.

Following it up to the MC

A little more up and different view

Here is the bend at the MC, it is much more out of the way than it looks in the picture.