Crank case breather alternative!!! The new and improved Krankvent!!

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actually energy is only CONVERTED from one form to a another form of energy and yes its never truely destroyed.



i think it so funny that your first post is about this thread , you must be the buddy and or someone who sells or works for the company that sells or make the krankvent... also funny that you say you have NOT read all the post, maybe you should have some common sense and read them .


i dont think any of us every said the breather reroute (as how most of us have it setup)was a perfect setup to remove the gases or the liquids that come out though the pcv valve , the main reason for the reroute is to help with low rpm stutter that is caused by the gases AND the liquids getting sucked into the intake.

as i said
I'm not saying it is bad ideal , kind of good ideal , just saying it will need replacement sooner or later, and still needs hoses with filter

Second, youtube vidoes that show you how condensation forms with with the use of a breather is useless, simply that this system is already has a problem with it. Also, if this "liquid crap" was inside your engine, it would eventually cause your oil to turn milky white and cause it to look like you have a leaking coolant headgasket into the crankcase
when said engine i was refering to the Crankcase Breathing System . AND every engine has condisation that forms in it to some amount ,small or large, most of it heats up to a point to where it becomes a vapor(gas ) and in this case usually flows though Crankcase Breathing System and out in to what ever setup you may have , original = factory setup , or some form of a breather REROUTE. and it condenses(turns back to a liquid) mostly inside the hoses near or in the catch can. yes a vacuum pump would help alot but where are you going to put it on NAKED bike, letting it vent to the outside atomsphere is probaly the next best thing at this time. partially because the pressure in the Crankcase Breathing System is higher (especially in the flywheel area ) than the outside atomsphere is. the engine would have to have alot of water it to turn the the oil to a milky white or would have to along time for the water to be in egnine oil and not turn to vapor and escape (or get sucked out). there is NO perfect engine.
I am a FAA Licensed Airframe & Powerplant Aviation Mechanic with alot of education and training ( and real world experience , not some auto part remove and replace mechanic) from one of the best aviation & tech colleges in the world, and the FAA mandates an extreme amount of knowledge to learn how and why partiulars of engines and engine systems and accessories work and how troubleshoot and actually take it part and actually fix individual parts of the engine, and find out why and what caused the problem in the first place AND ALOT MORE., not to just remove and replace the part, like most auto mechanics do.
 
and (the condensation does not form in the engine oil (very very tiny amount of water from the condensation ever gets into the oil in the crankcase, but some may condense in the rockerbox (after engine is killed and over time condenses and possibly drain back into the engine) it may fall or drip into oil but not much, but it is on the walls of engine crankcases (before starting engine and caused by temp diferences from inside engine (and amount of water vapor in the air inside the engine) and outside temp can cause condensation over time ,i.e over night) and other areas ,
ideally it condenses(turns back to a liquid) mostly inside the hoses near or in the catch can.
i myself would like to keep out or get out as much of the water vapor and any water from condensation , out of the engine to keep it from possibly accumulating or causing any problems or corrosion any where inside the engine .
 
and (the condensation does not form in the engine oil (very very tiny amount of water from the condensation ever gets into the oil in the crankcase, but some may condense in the rockerbox (after engine is killed and over time condenses and possibly drain back into the engine) it may fall or drip into oil but not much, but it is on the walls of engine crankcases (before starting engine and caused by temp diferences from inside engine (and amount of water vapor in the air inside the engine) and outside temp can cause condensation over time ,i.e over night) and other areas ,
ideally it condenses(turns back to a liquid) mostly inside the hoses near or in the catch can.
i myself would like to keep out or get out as much of the water vapor and any water from condensation , out of the engine to keep it from possibly accumulating or causing any problems or corrosion any where inside the engine .

thanks for repeating what i was saying..still the catch can does nothing for performance, and keeping it stock keeps condensation out fine from the crank case, the rebreather however has no vacuum source and thus will collect more vapor at any given time, whether driving or not.

The idea of crank vents is not to get rid of vapor associated with air particles, (which occurs in atmospheric pressure) therefore in the stock position the throttle pulls a slight vacuum from the crankcase, eleviating vapor particles, and thus if you had a catch can with a vacuum source you would even further eleviate vapor particles. The idea of crank vents is to cause vacuum, which in turn eleviates vapor particles.. with a vacuum source of course.

BTW, i like the 10+ zip ties you have holding on your "rebreather" filter in your sig profile pictures...
 
Here is an Independent review with several dyno charts showing no performance gains what so ever...

link

here are two post from a forum about your beloved krankvent:

IMHO Krankvent is Bad News
Written by Randysgym, on 12-31-2009 06:02
I ran a Krankvent for 2 years before tearing down my engine for a 113ci big bore. I found numerous case bolts that were corroded; couldn't figure out how. Then, when I got the new engine running (with all new ss bolts), I accidentally put the Krankvent in backwards, and got oil leaking out/around several case bolts. This told me that, with the vent 'properly installed', I was sucking air/moisture into the engine. I started to tell my performance parts supplier, but all I had to do was say "Krankvent" and he told me to get it off my engine or he would void my new parts warranty... I did.
Failure
Written by Van, on 10-20-2009 14:01
While servicing my bike, I thought I'd check the function of the Krankvent I installed a few years ago.
Much to my surprise, it was open in both directions. Air flowed both ways.
I guess they can and do fail.
Never saw any improvement while it was working properly anyway.

I happen to like natives bike, and thus far we haven't seen yours nor heard from you in another place on this forum. So until then I'm just going to imagine you don't have one and most likely walk around with a pocket full of Krankvents that you use as paperweights. Maybe you can drink some krunkjuice with your krankvents

I don't mind keeping and open mind debating a product but when you're an ass and want to try and take a lowblow at their bike its not cool. and particularly makes people not want to hear what you have to say

And my bet is your the guy that owns the 3000gt who told the first guy about them
 
thus far we haven't seen yours nor heard from you in another place on this forum. So until then I'm just going to imagine you don't have one and most likely walk around with a pocket full of Krankvents that you use as paperweights. Maybe you can drink some krunkjuice with your krankvents

I completely agree [up]


BTW, i like the 10+ zip ties you have holding on your "rebreather" filter in your sig profile pictures...

with him or her saying that . It is fair to say he has no motorcycle and probably has never rode a REAL V-TWIN,(and probably not seen how much they can shake and/or vibrate) because if he had he would have a clue for the reason for the 10 zip ties. they are there to prevent it from vibrating around and making all kinds of noises and prevent it from getting damaged.



you know i get sick of people trying to sell or push some new " end all best ever product in the world ", "best invention since sliced bread.

i would like to see one cut in half to see what makes it so special, and i what to which aerodynamic principal it is that it says it uses to keep oil (and liquids) in and ONLY ALLOWS air to flow out its one way valve !! PLEASE show me that and tell me that. where is ron popel, or the sham wow guy. ????
 
Sugar - "Krankvents" contribute zero to power. Aaron Wilson at Nallin Racing Head Service spent a bunch of time on the dyno testing these things, and publicly called the manufacturer out on the carpet for their claims.

Tuber and XB engines already have check valves in line with the breathers - the umbrella valves in the tubers, PCV valves in the XB.

Link:

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_breathervalves.shtml
 
OK, OK, I have a question...

Why not put a catch can setup as per EVERYONE on this site seems to do to the benefit of their ride, BUT WITH a one way valve on the breather filter hose only allowing gasses to leave?

I'm not an idiot. I own tools but, I'm not a mechanic.... I only strap **** to my ride and I pay someone for the hard technical stuff. He does however teach me what hes doing, why and how.


IMO removing garbage from an engine should be a primary concern.
:D
 
Like a spring check valve and couple of hose connectors? Please correct me if it's a bad idea.... really....[confused]
 
R.O.T.F.L ...... MAN that was a good read !! ... and talk about digging up a thread from 12' under!!
 
Ya I found it searching for breather threads. i kinda got drawn in to this one... drama... technology... salesmen...wunderprodukts.... truly a battle royal...lol

I supposed I should have checked the date and messaged the Moderator with my question.
Unless you know...
WiIl a spring valve work in line to the filter? If so, what cracking pressure would I need??

[confused]
 
I just left mine using the stock PCV valves... Mine works just fine... I regularly get condensation when I ride my bike to work in the mornings in my clear catch can....
 
I Suppose if the moisture is forced out daily it doesn't matter if it can seep in through the re-routed filter system when parked - obviously I'll plug it for longer storage.
:D[up][up][up][up]
 
The breather filter that's part of the reroute does that job for me lol .. but my bike never sits still for more than a day ... if it's lucky lol
 
i'm installing "krankvents" along with an electronically controlled "fuel line atomizer-particulate seperator" that i found online at JC Whitney.com expecting a 40HP increase across the board and estimated 50% increase in MPG. will keep ya'll posted.
 
The filter can block moisture? Oh wow I didn't know that. Unfortunately in this regard I live in Canada on the East Coast. Very moist with lots of rainy days, like today. Oh well, It' better than the crazy winter in the mid-west where I'm from.

;)
 
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