If you are not planning to use catch can I would recommend you to route two tubes from the valves separately without any T or Y fittings so it will have less resistance and less pressure inside the engine and no oil throwing back in opposite tube.
How-To: Crank Case Breather Mod (with pics)
- Thread starter Urban_Assault
- Start date
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There is nothing wrong with running 2 independent tubes. It's just wholly unnecessary..
The lack of oil you have posted about in your own breather system, negates your own advise ^^^^^
elvisxb9sx
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- Oct 22, 2017
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thanks for the advice, sounds a lot easier! how about rainy days? bike still runs smooth without the air filter? and doesn't the air filter stop dirt and other nasty stuff to get sucked into the motor?
would you recommend this mod? i do not really care about the extra HP some say you will get, just want the engine to live a happy and healthy life.
again thanks for the response!
would you recommend this mod? i do not really care about the extra HP some say you will get, just want the engine to live a happy and healthy life.
again thanks for the response!
Thats not what he's saying Elvis.
Use the air filter for the engine. Always.
Removing the breather hoses from the airbox (and plugging those holes) allows the engine to only get clean air without also ingesting blow-by from the crankcase.
The air filter he's referring to is sometimes people add them to the now open crankcase hoses that were pulled out of the air box. I don't believe its necessary, but opinions vary.
Use the air filter for the engine. Always.
Removing the breather hoses from the airbox (and plugging those holes) allows the engine to only get clean air without also ingesting blow-by from the crankcase.
The air filter he's referring to is sometimes people add them to the now open crankcase hoses that were pulled out of the air box. I don't believe its necessary, but opinions vary.
It only blows, it does not suck. If you want to use air filter do not use small sintered metal filters, they get glogged and build resistance so your engine gaskets will leak. Install big air filter with low resistance or no filter at all.
Air is pulled back into the breather tubes when a hot crank case cools down. The 'check valves' won't, and are not meant to seal 100%. IMO, I don't think it's enough to matter (and I still think an air filter is unnecessary), but thats what happens.
And TPEHAK is right, if you want to use a filter (nothing wrong with that) use a small normal filter, not air pressure mufflers.
And TPEHAK is right, if you want to use a filter (nothing wrong with that) use a small normal filter, not air pressure mufflers.
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user_deleted
Well-known member
never ceases to amaze me how some of these threads go sideways on here and the very basics either glossed over or missed entirely. and following the advice of someone who has installed not only their HORN but assorted relays and wiring looms INSIDE their airbox assembly not a recommended path.
THE IMPORTANT BASICS:
1-plumb with 3/8th ID quality oil-type hosing
2-buy ONE single 3/8th OD T fitting. tough to find in some locales. i have them cheap if you can't locate on your own
3-plug the airbox base plate holes(2) where the factory lines formerly resided from the BOTTOM.....NOT the air filter side.
4-use simple automotive plastic body panel plugs for step #3 and glue in place
5-BE DAMN CERTAIN the TB air intake boot is properly seated onto both the TB as well as the airbox base plate or all your efforts will be for naught and bike will run like crap if it's not.
6-BE DAMN CERTAIN each breather valve is fully seated into the lid grommet after rerouting the lines or you'll have oil spewing everywhere atop the motor.
7-this is all the filter you'll need. some use one...others do not. i do.
THE IMPORTANT BASICS:
1-plumb with 3/8th ID quality oil-type hosing
2-buy ONE single 3/8th OD T fitting. tough to find in some locales. i have them cheap if you can't locate on your own
3-plug the airbox base plate holes(2) where the factory lines formerly resided from the BOTTOM.....NOT the air filter side.
4-use simple automotive plastic body panel plugs for step #3 and glue in place
5-BE DAMN CERTAIN the TB air intake boot is properly seated onto both the TB as well as the airbox base plate or all your efforts will be for naught and bike will run like crap if it's not.
6-BE DAMN CERTAIN each breather valve is fully seated into the lid grommet after rerouting the lines or you'll have oil spewing everywhere atop the motor.
7-this is all the filter you'll need. some use one...others do not. i do.
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If you will decide to use fitting I highly recommend you to use Y fitting instead of T fitting. Y fitting will not allow air flow to throw oil from one valve tube to another.
Also be extremely careful with connecting and disconnecting hoses to the PCV valve, hold the valve body by hand and pull the hose. Do not let the valve rest in the grommet hole whine pulling or pushing the hoses, support it by hand firmly. Those PCV valves units are two crappy pieces of plastic clued together and they can easily crack along those gluing line and will leak so you will end up with engine rotation to change the valves and redo your work.
Also be extremely careful with connecting and disconnecting hoses to the PCV valve, hold the valve body by hand and pull the hose. Do not let the valve rest in the grommet hole whine pulling or pushing the hoses, support it by hand firmly. Those PCV valves units are two crappy pieces of plastic clued together and they can easily crack along those gluing line and will leak so you will end up with engine rotation to change the valves and redo your work.
elvisxb9sx
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- Oct 22, 2017
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thanks for all the responses! highly appreciated
