How-To: Crank Case Breather Mod (with pics)

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Yup.  That's what I'm running.

I've posted that link in the thread before. Check my post on the previous page.

Doh, sure enough. I'll be interested to hear your report after you've put some distance on it. I'm still a bit skeptical of it since my reroute still tends to spit up a lot of oily crap.

The guy's theory that the airbox creates suction causing the valves to open more than necessary is interesting. Maybe all that oily crap would stay in my engine and allow the watery stuff to evap. Hmmm...
 
WileyXB12X said:
Doh, sure enough.  I'll be interested to hear your report after you've put some distance on it.  I'm still a bit skeptical of it since my reroute still tends to spit up a lot of oily crap.

The guy's theory that the airbox creates suction causing the valves to open more than necessary is interesting.  Maybe all that oily crap would stay in my engine and allow the watery stuff to evap.  Hmmm...

I had the airbox open a few weeks back and everything was spotlessly clean. That's after a solid 1000 miles with the configuration. I tried to match the hose lengths for both the stock and revised breather. I think the theory is sound and preserves the factory function of the PCV.
 
Hy guys,
Read about the breather mod and elected to do it to my 2000 X1 lightning since it was said it should be done to all Buells. Took the two original hoses going into the air box, T-ed them into one, T-ed on the mini air filter down the line, and routed the remaining hose around the back of the bike and down near the left foot peg. I enjoyed it for around three days until I noticed oil pouring out of the top of the front V (the one closest to the front wheel) this morning as I got to work, as well as some liquid coming out of the bolt that the shifter is connected to that enters the tranny. These leaks were not present prior to the breather mod. Does anyone think these two issues could be at all related to the breather mod I did, in that there isnt as large a diameter of hose to exhaust the crank as there was originally (since I T-ed the two hoses to one 3/8" ) ? I know the hoses are not kinked anywhere, I double checked. Or is it more likely to be coincidence? PS, I dont race or gas it off the line or anything. Just regular, normal pleasure riding for the moment. Any help would be greatly appreciated by this motorcycle newbie! :)
 
I did not T my hoses either, I ran 2 hoses, fuel lines, over the top front and down the port side of the bike, oil cooler side, all the way down to the muffler behind the chin fairing. I used all black cable ties and nothing else, that's it besides hose clamps at the Valve covers. I have never seen anything come out of these, even when my bike tipped over while running, tip over switch worked. Muffler has a slight dark spot where the hoses are resting on top and I used to check it every oil change, now I don't even check it anymore. 09 ULY.
 
s0dhi said:
I had the airbox open a few weeks back and everything was spotlessly clean.  That's after a solid 1000 miles with the configuration.  I tried to match the hose lengths for both the stock and revised breather.  I think the theory is sound and preserves the factory function of the PCV.

Previously I did the classic breather mod, plugged both holes, ran the tube down the port side into a catch can with a filter. It got rid of the low-speed stutter, which I thought was great. Then I had some other issues and took it all back to square one. I now have just the 90 degree elbows with tubes positioning the ends just under the intake venturi after hearing s0dhi's report and figuring what the hell.

After 3k miles, there's the tiniest bit of oil in the airbox, just a light film, but nothing like the pooling I used to get. The low-speed stutter has never returned. The pressure in the engine seems to be enough to blow out any condensation - on a cold day with the cover off the steam puffing out of the tubes is visible - so it's still venting, just not making a mess.

I'd recommend trying to the 90 degree elbows first before putting the time and effort into the breather mod - cheaper, easier and just as effective.

How-to on Buells Downunder
 
Just thought I'd add my version to the plethora of breather mods..

So I guess I'm one of the few people who actually doesn't want to see a breather and catch can setup on the exterior of my bike. With exception of the few of you who fabricated your own custom systems, (props by the way) I feel that the exposed tubes, filters, and cans look cluttered and out of place on an otherwise tight package. Anyways if any of you are looking for a concealed and cost-effective setup; this is how I run mine:

Pretty standard configuration here. I cut the last 6ish inches off the forward breather tube and T'd them running back under the frame brace where I'm pointing.
Breather 1.jpg

Then ran it up over the shock parallel to factory location of the trans vent hose. No clearance issues with the air box cover or seat in this location.
Breather 2.jpg

This is where it gets slightly different than most. I T'd the hose again and connected the filter so that it's oriented 90 degrees vertical from the downward slope of the line. After the filter I reused the 6 inch elbow that I cut from the stock front breather and plugged it with a brass barb threaded for a cap. The entire assembly is fastened to the the rear coil at the T in a way that the only contact points are rubber hose. The filter is also canted away from the shock at an angle that allows it to be free floating in the body under the seat. No rubbing or vibrating on anything. This picture shows the general orientation of the setup within the body (it sits slightly lower within the bike itself).
Breather 3.jpg

This is how the end of the tube and plug hook over the bottom of the frame. Concealed yet easily accessed form the right side of the bike.
Breather 5.jpg

I used a 3/8" barb to 3/4" thread and cap combo that gives me a good amount of extra volume over just plugging the hose. This works as both a plug and mini catch can that I can easily open to drain.
Breather 4.jpg

I really like this setup for my application. It maintains the factory aesthetics with all the function of a full breather system. The filter is sitting about 6 inches behind the cooling fan and just inside of the right side under-seat air extractor scoop. Moving at any kind of speed will allow high airflow over the filter that should help extract nasty gases (also protects against saturation that would impede breathe-ability in wet conditions). The barb and cap catch can is perfectly sufficient for my bike. I drain it every 130-150 miles and have yet to exceed the volume of the cap alone. My bike is an 09 12R with just over 13k miles so it doesn't have a huge amount of oil come out of the breather compared to some of the older bikes I've seen. Entire setup cost under $25. Just another option for anyone contemplating this mod.
 
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Emailed him. I like this setup, looks very clean

http://www.kdfab.com/catchcaninstructions.htm

The reason I want to install breather reroute is because of removing the PVC valves hoses from the airbox baseplate is PITA, I need to cut those hoses and install new each time I need to dive under the baseplate, I hate it.
 
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If you really need a catch can, just paint a 5hr energy bottle black and put a hole just large enough for your tubing to fit REALLY snug through the top.
Put a couple holes in the can, to allow it to breath and to drain it, and call it a day.
That's my set up.
But I understand it might not be expensive enough or complicated enough for some of you guys.
In that case get with a machine shop and see what they can CNC for ya out of a solid piece of titanium
 
Another great 'how to' I was able to sort this out quickly and move on THANKS!
 

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can anyone please share the step by step pictures? they are not showing anymore. thanks in advance! :angel:


I don't have pics but I can tell you with absolute certainty that adding a catch can and breather filter is unnecessary and counterproductive.

Remove the air box base plate connect the hoses from the breather valves to a T or Y fitting, attach some ⅜ fuel line to that same fitting, and then run the hose down behind the left rider footpeg and leave it open to freely vent to the ground.
 
I don't have pics but I can tell you with absolute certainty that adding a catch can and breather filter is unnecessary and counterproductive.

Remove the air box base plate connect the hoses from the breather valves to a T or Y fitting, attach some ⅜ fuel line to that same fitting, and then run the hose down behind the left rider footpeg and leave it open to freely vent to the ground.

Did this with a cheap auto parts store stainless breather filter on the end. Easy peasy
 
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